Kris Inch

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves, and three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone.

TL;DR: In this paper, a new field data set of water surface elevation at 15 cross-shore locations on a dissipative, fetch-unlimited beach is analyzed to investigate the forcing and surf zone behaviour of infragravity waves during a wide range of offshore wave conditions.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used field data collected at a sloping platform in England and a sub-horizontal platform in New Zealand, and supported by numerical modeling, and showed that the group bound long wave mechanism is most important on sloping platforms, whereas breakpoint forcing dominates on sub-hierarchical platforms.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors measured cross-shore velocity profiles at 0.001m vertical resolution and at 100 Hz over the lower 0.02-0.07m of the water column in the mid swash zone on a dissipative, macrotidal beach.

TL;DR: In this article, the impact of random noise on an existing two-dimensional method for separating incident and reflected wave spectra using an array of wave gauges is investigated using simulated time series with known wave amplitudes, reflection coefficients, and signal-to-noise ratios.