Marion Tissier

TL;DR: The fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model for shallow water waves of large amplitude is studied and gives a good account of all the processes of wave transformation in coastal areas: shoaling, wave breaking and run-up.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves, and three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone.

TL;DR: In this article, a new method to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq-type models is presented, based on a reformulation of the set of governing equations (namely Serre Green-Naghdi equations) that allows us to split them into a hyperbolic part in the conservative form and a dispersive part.

TL;DR: In this article, two high-order methods for solving S-GN equations, based on Finite Volume approaches, are presented, one is based on a quasi-conservative form of the SGN equations and the second on a hybrid Finite volume/Finite difference method.

TL;DR: In this paper, a frequency-domain complex Eigenfunction analysis was performed to quantify infragravity-wave dissipation close to the shoreline and identify the underlying dissipation mechanism.