Showing papers in "International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology in 2005"
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors explored the relationship between body type and fit preferences with body cathexis, clothing benefits sought by consumers, and demographic profiles of consumers and found significant associations were found between body shape and satisfaction with different body parts.
Abstract: Purpose – This paper explores the relationships between body type and fit preferences with body cathexis, clothing benefits sought by consumers, and demographic profiles of consumers.Design/methodology/approach – The survey instrument consisted of a questionnaire with scales assessing fit preference, body type, body cathexis, clothing benefits sought and consumer demographics.Findings – Significant associations were found between body cathexis (satisfaction with head/upper body, lower body, height, weight and torso) and body shape. The degree of satisfaction with different body parts depended on the body type of the individual. The level of satisfaction with head/upper body, height and torso did not vary by body type. No significant differences were found between fit preferences and body type for lower body garments.Research limitations/implications – The majority of respondents were between the ages 18 and 28, affluent Caucasian Americans, with an hourglass body type, who had a family income of $85,000 o...
178 citations
TL;DR: In this article, an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making has been proposed, where shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes.
Abstract: Purpose – In order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to consider individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – For altering perimeter and length for contouring individual body shapes, a cross‐sectional line model is proposed arranged at regular intervals. This model is easy for controlling body shape and also for calculating length and perimeters. Shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes. SCL are used to modify the perimeter of the cross‐sectional line by scaling method with different center position and scaling ratio in a horizontal direction.Findings – In order to investigate whether virtual body models can be adequately substituted for real physical models, the perimeter and cross‐section areas of shape con...
59 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a review of the literature related to fabric drape is presented, which provides researchers with the details of developments in instruments to measure fabric drapes and provides an analysis of drape by measuring stiffness.
Abstract: Purpose – To provide researchers with the details of developments in instruments to measure fabric drape and review the literature related to fabric drape.Design/methodology/approach – In recent years, there has been a renewed interest in investigating the aesthetic behavior of fabrics due to the developments in objective evaluation techniques. To understand drape behavior, it is essential to know how drape is measured quantitatively. This paper reviews research related to drape characteristics of fabrics, two‐dimensional instruments and analysis of drape by measuring stiffness, three‐dimensional instruments developed to measure drape, fabric mechanical properties and their influence on drape measurement, and the latest developments in the field including image analysis, the dynamic drape tester and other related research.Findings – Many instruments for measuring drape have been developed including the earliest that assessed stiffness of fabrics, later versions of drape meters and recent innovative instru...
49 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the authors focused on the study of the relaxation phenomena of fabrics containing elastane yarn, and found a close connection between stress relaxation under constant deformation in the fabric roll and the degree of deformation with manual unwinding.
Abstract: Purpose – In this paper, special attention is focused on the study of the relaxation phenomena of fabrics containing elastane yarn.Design/methodology/approach – For this purpose, the relaxation phenomena of wound fabric under constant deformation, as the consequence of accumulated stress during winding, were analysed. Maxwell's model and the modified standard linear solid model are used for explaining the relaxation.Findings – The results of the study of the relaxation phenomena of fabrics containing elastane yarn show a close connection between stress relaxation under constant deformation in the fabric roll and the degree of deformation with manual unwinding. Expert knowledge of the relaxation phenomena in fabrics containing elastane yarns has a big influence on explaining the problem of dimensional changes and instability in such fabrics.Originality/value – A better understanding of the relaxation phenomena in fabrics containing elastane yarns.
43 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a general outline of four broad consumer categories or groups, in part distilled from the range of detailed and colourfully named descriptors used to differentiate fashion and clothing consumer groups, identify and recognize trends.
Abstract: Purpose – The paper offers a general outline of four broad consumer categories or groups, in part distilled from the range of detailed and colourfully named descriptors used to differentiate fashion and clothing consumer groups, identify and recognize trends. The paper will offer the opportunity to look at the long‐term impact of external forces on fashion and clothing purchasing decisions.Design/methodology/approach – The method of research was diverse, but largely drawn from observation; media analysis and industry intelligence. In the course of the work, it was possible to draw on a varied range of sources to categorize purchasing decisions (illustrating consumer categories) into four main drivers.Findings – Thus to highlight some of the major forces that might drive the consumer.Practical implications – In reducing the detailed forecasts usually prepared for fashion and related products, the paper might be of interest to those considering the long term impacts of society, culture and politics on the p...
41 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, three measurement technologies have been established for textiles and clothing: measurement of fabric mechanics, measurement of seam quality, and measurement of human size and shape, which can make measurement more accurate and efficient in all three areas.
Abstract: Purpose – To establish new measurement technologies in textiles and clothing.Design/methodology/approach – Three areas are covered, diverse in methodology and approach: measurement of fabric mechanics, measurement of seam quality, and measurement of human size and shape.Findings – Three new measurement technologies have been established.Research limitations/implications – The mechanics are limited to the measurement of lightweight fabrics. The human measurement needs clear photographs.Practical implications – All techniques can make measurement more accurate and efficient in all three areas.Originality/value – All techniques are original and have a major contribution to textile and clothing science and technology.
34 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the prediction of shirt patterns for different body sizes using multiple linear regression (MLR) was discussed, where a total of 29 pattern parameters from men's tailor-made shirt and 34 body parameters obtained from a body scanner were designed for analysis.
Abstract: Purpose – The paper discusses the prediction of shirt patterns for different body sizes using multiple linear regression (MLR).Design/methodology/approach – A total of 29 pattern parameters from men's tailor‐made shirt and 34 body parameters obtained from a body scanner were designed for analysis. MLR has been applied to examine the underlying relationship between shirt pattern parameters and body measurements.Findings– Compared with formulae from the pattern expert, the prediction of shirt pattern from MLR has been improved.Originality/value – The findings could help to predict pattern size with different body sizes more accurately.
31 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used a standard mannequin dummy to measure the clothing pressure of girdles and from which to predict the pressure on the different human body, using an improved mathematical programming method for numerical simulation of cloth wrinkling.
Abstract: Purpose – This paper reports on the development of a method for the prediction of clothing pressure of girdles on the human body.Design/methodology/approach – In this paper, we propose to use a standard mannequin dummy to measure the clothing pressure of girdles and from which to predict the pressure on the different human body. An improved mathematical programming method for numerical simulation of cloth wrinkling is investigated.Findings – In general, the prediction equations of the model are effective in estimating the clothing pressure on the human body from the clothing pressure on a standard mannequin dummy.Practical implications – The method may be used by the manufacturers of girdles to test their products on a dummy to see whether the pressure distribution is satisfactory to the targeted group of consumers. It can also be used by consumers to assess the suitability of girdles based on the estimated clothing pressure, which may be predicted from the pressure pre‐tested on a dummy and the consumer'...
29 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a test instrument is presented for testing steady state and transient state characteristics of the apparel fabrics containing phase change material (PCM), which can be used in quality control during the manufacture of fabrics containing PCMs.
Abstract: Purpose – In order to characterize the temperature regulating ability of fabrics containing phase change material (PCM), the test instrument has been designed and built.Design/methodology/approach – To assess temperature regulating ability, temperature regulating factor (TRF) is determined. TRF is defined by Hittle as a quotient of the amplitude of the temperature variation of the hot plate and the amplitude of the heat flux variation divided by the steady state heat resistance of the fabric.Findings – The test instrument presented here is intended to be used for testing steady state and transient state characteristics of the apparel fabrics containing the PCMs.Practical implications – This test instrument can be used in quality control during the manufacture of fabrics containing PCMs. TRF can be used in clothing industry to establish the criteria for comfort parameters of textiles.Originality/value – The instrument can provide information for the fabric and garment designers and be useful in quality con...
28 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a pilling assessment cabinet is designed and developed which captures images and a software is developed to process and analyze the image of a pilled fabric to find out the various pilling parameters such as total number of pills, total area of the pills, mean area and number of pill per unit area.
Abstract: Purpose – This paper aims to report on a new pilling measurement system that has been developed using image processing technique.Design/methodology/approach – A pilling assessment cabinet is designed and developed which captures images and a software is developed to process and analyze the image of a pilled fabric to find out the various pilling parameters such as total number of pills, total area of the pills, mean area and number of pills per unit area. The image processing software processed image data of both the existing subjective assessment standards and pilled fabrics and assign suitable grades for comparison.Findings – The grades assigned by the machine correlates well with that of the experts grades and the results are reliably reproducible. The system can count the number of pills, find their total area, and their mean area. The results of EMPA‐W2 and EMPA‐W3 standards behave almost similar. The ASTM standards also gives somewhat the same results as the EMPA standards in number of pills but has...
26 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behavior of men's suiting fabrics is investigated and a new drape parameter, average amplitude to average radius (A/r) ratio, is defined and calculated for drape image geometry.
Abstract: Purpose – Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. When two‐dimensional fabrics are converted to three‐dimensional garment forms, a number of operations are required which affect drape behaviour of the fabric while present in garment form. In the present study, the effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated.Design/methodology/approach – The effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated. Comparisons were also made between different stitches (chain stitch and lock stitch), different seams for lock stitch and different types of interlinings for their effect on drape behaviour of fabrics. In addition to drape coefficient and number of folds, a new drape parameter – average amplitude to average radius (A/r) ratio – was also defined and calculated for drape image geometry.Findings – Drape coef...
TL;DR: In this article, the state-of-the-art of existing methods of tear resistance (static and dynamic) of clothing has been described, also presented are the parameters of static tear resistance for protective and work clothing depending on its application.
Abstract: Purpose – The state‐of‐the‐art of existing methods of tear resistance (static and dynamic) of clothing has been described, also presented are the parameters of static tear resistance for protective and work clothing depending on its application.Design/methodology/approach – For chosen group of fabrics the introduction of a new parameter of dynamic tear resistance was proposed. For research, five static tear test methods and the dynamic one were chosen. In order to find the relationship between the results of mean tear forces for the six described methods Kendall's agreement coefficient was calculated. The comparative measurements for results of static tear resistance and dynamic tear resistance for protective and work clothing were carried out. On the basis of this, the value of tear dynamic force for these fabrics was established.Findings – When establishing the criteria for the tear strength for protective and work clothing, the most significant was fabric end‐use and the minimal value of tear strength ...
TL;DR: In this paper, a significant garment restyling tool was developed to perform garment design in 3D and omni-angle visualization on a digital mannequin model, based on the developed system kernel and its formulas described in part I of the paper.
Abstract: Purpose – A significant garment restyling tool was developed to perform garment design in three dimensions. It provides the professional designers the abilities of 3D garment creation, restyling, omni‐angle visualization, and fitting evaluation on a digital mannequin model. According to the body tape‐measurements defined in ISO 8559:1999(E) and ASTM D5219‐99 (1999), the extracted feature lines on computer mannequin dominate the shape of the apparel and also its associated fitting results. In this paper, the garment creation by the provided interfaces and its outcomes based on the developed system kernel and its formulas described in part I of the paper is demonstrated.Design/methodology/approach – In part II of this paper, a three‐dimensional garment creation and restyling software based on the kernel infrastructure and formulas is implemented.Findings – Currently, three fundamental dresses, two basic collars, and sleeve are successfully implemented in the creation of free style mannequin‐made apparels. F...
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors measured seam slippage on a significant wool and blended fabrics sample, either in warp direction (weft yarns slip), or in weft direction (warp yarn's slip), using a specially equipped load-elongation tester.
Abstract: Purpose – The dependence of seam slippage values on fabric construction parameters makes this property an interesting case for study.Design/methodology/approach – In this study, made on a significant wool and blended fabrics sample, the seam slippage was measured, either in warp direction (weft yarns slip), or in weft direction (warp yarns slip), using a specially equipped load‐elongation tester. Testing was done following the TM 117 Woolmark Company test method.Findings – For most fabrics, the conventional variables that impact seam slippage most seriously are opacity, polyamide content, finish type and cover factor.Research limitations/implications – Since this research does not deal with the variable of yarn crimp in fabrics, it is the cover factor that plays the central role, as the property determining seam slippage. The yarns with lower cover factor (less crimped) are in less danger of slipping between the perpendicular yarns (more crimped) and vice versa.Practical implications – Based on the equati...
TL;DR: The performance of the proposed fuzzy colour prediction system is better than the traditional approach and could be used to produce a future breakthrough in providing an intelligent computer‐aided design system for apparel product.
Abstract: Purpose – This paper aims to design and develop a learning‐based fuzzy colour prediction system for providing more effective apparel design in computer‐aided design system.Design/methodology/approach – In this study, we propose using a fuzzy system integrated with preliminary knowledge of colour prediction for facilitating apparel design. The performance of the proposed system is evaluated in terms of its computational efficiency and robustness. In addition, the proposed system is evaluated by target group of customers.Findings – It was found that the performance of the proposed system is better than the traditional approach.Research limitations/implications – Although the proposed system has some limitations, the outcome of this study could be used to produce a future breakthrough in providing an intelligent computer‐aided design system for apparel product.Originality/value – Using such an approach, an apparel designer could predict the favourite colours of garment for a target group of customers. The sy...
TL;DR: In this paper, a total of 24 linings fabrics were produced in different constructions, and seam slippage, bending behaviour, crease recovery angle and comfort properties of the linings were measured and the results evaluated.
Abstract: Purpose – To investigate the performance of linings in clothing.Design/methodology/approach – A total of 24 lining fabrics were produced in different constructions. 150 denier 350 twist/cm filament polyester warp yarn was used for all of the fabrics. Two different weft yarns (textured, filament) were used to produce lining fabrics in three different densities.Findings – In the garment sector, lining performance is highly important for the manufacture of proper quality garments. The main problem of linings during usage is seam slippage for some constructions.Research limitations/implications – Fabric constructions were chosen as warp rips, weft rips, ripstop (rips both in warp and weft direction) and plain weave. Seam slippage, bending behaviour, crease recovery angle and comfort properties of the linings were measured and the results evaluated.Originality/value – The paper contributes to understanding the performance of linings.
TL;DR: In this paper, an electrochemical cell is developed to test and follow up the quality of electrodes made of knitted, woven and non-woven conductive textile material for detecting parameters and body conditions.
Abstract: Purpose – In this paper an electrochemical cell is developed to test and follow up the quality of electrodes made of knitted, woven and non‐woven conductive textile materialDesign/methodology/approach – This cell is constructed of two electrodes planarly positioned against each other using the support of a PVC tube and two PVC plates Between the electrodes and the electrolyte special membranes are placed that simulate the human skinFindings – This research is a preliminary start of a study to investigate and understand the behaviour of textile electrodes and to gain insight in the inter‐phases electrode‐electrolyte and electrode‐skin‐electrolyte in order to be able to model the system and to use it for detection of parameters and body conditionsResearch limitations/implications – As pointed out earlier, a lot of work still needs to be done but the preliminary work shows that promising possibilities can be offeredOriginality/value – Simulation of human body behaviour during sweat production measured b
TL;DR: In this paper, the seam strength properties of polyester and polyester polytetrafluoroethylene air-jet textured sewing threads are analyzed. And the results indicate that the strength of seams depends on the properties of sewing threads.
Abstract: Purpose – The goal of the research presented is to analyse seam strength properties of polyester and polyester‐polytetrafluoroethylene air‐jet textured sewing threads.Design/methodology/approach – These threads are designed for sewing various garments and are manufactured by the Department of Textile Technology at Kaunas University of Technology. Manufacturing parameters are varied during air‐jet‐texturing, which includes air pressure, effect and core yarns overfeed. Tensile tests of sewing threads and seams strength tests are performed.Findings – They indicate that the strength of seams depends on the properties of sewing threads.Originality/value – Analysis of the seam strength of PES‐PTFE air‐jet‐textured sewing threads.
TL;DR: In this article, a type of 3D hollow woven structure is proposed for improving ventilation underneath ballistic body armour and thus, thermal comfort, by means of a computational fluid dynamic package, fluid flows through different cross-sectional tubular geometries were simulated in order to predict, which structural parameters of the 3d hollow fabrics are optimal to support ventilation.
Abstract: Purpose – This study presents the design, manufacture and evaluation of a type of 3D hollow woven structure, as a mean for improving ventilation underneath ballistic body armour and thus, thermal comfort.Design/methodology/approach – By means of a computational fluid dynamic package, fluid flows through different cross‐sectional tubular geometries were simulated in order to predict, which structural parameters of the 3D hollow fabrics are optimal to support ventilation.Findings – As the result of the computational analysis four optimised 3D hollow woven structures were selected and generated on a standard weaving loom.Originality/value – Investigation of thermal comfort of 3D ballistic vests.
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors analyse some mechanical properties and parameters of drapability using different methods from two different points of research area: knowledge bases and numerical modelling using the finite element method.
Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to analyse some mechanical properties and parameters of drapability using different methods from two different points of research area: knowledge bases and numerical modelling using the finite element methodDesign/methodology/approach – The approach consists of analysing some mechanical properties and parameters of drapability using different methods from two different points of research area: knowledge bases and numerical modelling using the finite element method The knowledge bases, named FP_B‐1 and FPO_B‐2, were used to analyse the bending rigidity of fused panels The numerical model of fused panel NMFP is used to analyse parameters of drapabilityFindings – Based on the analyses of bending rigidity and draping of fused panels the conclusions indicate the significance of interaction between mechanical properties and parameters of drapability of the fused panel to garment appearance Furthermore, the methods used present a computer approach to the study of the f
TL;DR: In this article, the authors describe the approach taken in a collaborative research project that aimed to investigate new ways of understanding the customer, for Derby-based fibre manufacturer, Tencel Limited.
Abstract: Purpose – This paper describes the novel approach taken in a collaborative research project that aimed to investigate new ways of understanding the customer, for Derby‐based fibre manufacturer, Tencel Limited. The overall aim of the research described in this paper, was to help identify and establish a significant retail programme with a major UK store group for Tencel limited.Design/methodology/approach – In an iterative process, the target customer for the focus groups was identified, the main aims of the process were discussed, the test garments were identified and the empathic design tools were adapted. The team developed a programme of activities that would capture customer focused information on these critical issues.Findings – Using the Grove techniques helped to make the project transparent and inclusive, and enabled the whole team to be involved in the decision‐making process. Using these techniques have provided Tencel with a non‐scientific way of understanding how their end customer perceives t...
TL;DR: In this article, a simplified two-dimensional representation of the unit cell of the fabric that involves three bodies in contact is proposed, based on finite element analysis (FEA) for the mechanical analysis of their complex shape structures.
Abstract: Purpose – This paper proposes a simplified two‐dimensional representation of the unit cell of the fabric that involves three bodies in contact.Design/methodology/approach – The fabrics are not simple homogenous structures. They have a discrete structural character and this is essential for their complex mechanical behaviour. Low stress micro‐mechanics is mainly used for the prediction of the fabric hand. Modelling of the fabric microstructure is a powerful tool for the in‐depth study of their performance. Based on the geometrical models of the fabrics, finite element analysis (FEA) is a very useful method for the mechanical analysis of their complex shape structures. Especially FEA can be applied on a system of bodies in contact by taking into account the interactions between the individual bodies. The parametric FEA analysis of the unit cell of the fabric provides interesting results about its mechanical behaviour.Findings – The present work states that the use of the finite element method is a friendly ...
TL;DR: The kernel of the design environment and the mathematical formulas used in garment creation are described, results and implementations will be presented later in part II of this paper, and free style creation on clothes is performed by the provided tools and its formulas behind.
Abstract: Purpose – This ongoing research revolute the conventional clothing design process by garment constructions in truly three dimensions rather than in two dimensions by ways of pattern design. The aim of the research is to develop a computer‐assisted clothing design tool in complete three dimensions. It would provide the garment designers the capabilities of 3D basal garment creation, restyling, and static fitting analysis when wearing on a digital mannequin. The kernel of the design environment and the mathematical formulas used in garment creation are described, results and implementations will be presented later in part II of this paper.Design/methodology/approach – In this paper, a mannequin‐based garment design and restyling tools in three dimensions is proposed. The tools are based on mathematical formulas which provide an intuitive way of computer‐aided garment design.Findings – Free style creation on clothes is performed by the provided tools and its formulas behind. Feature‐based mannequin model is ...
TL;DR: A new measuring method has been introduced in garment engineering, aimed at predicting electrical energy consumption in garment sewing operations, thus opening a completely new field of investigation in garments engineering.
Abstract: Purpose – The equipment for computerised measuring of electrical power and energy is presented, adapted to the needs of investigating processing parameters of garment sewing operations.Design/methodology/approach – The method of measuring the energy necessary to run the sewing‐machine driving electrical motor is also presented, correlated to the stitching speed in joining a straight seam in a single, two, or three, segments. Electrical energy consumption is analysed as dependent on the stitching speed, varying the number of stitches in the seam.Findings – The investigations described have shown the impact of the method of work applied and the effect of the changes in garment sewing operation in processing parameters on the level of electrical energy consumed by the sewing‐machine drive electrical motor. A new measuring method has been introduced in garment engineering, aimed at predicting electrical energy consumption in garment sewing operations, thus opening a completely new field of investigation in th...
TL;DR: In this paper, the influence of variables such as strain rate, the number of fabric plies, the type of fabric, the kinds of fibre and the shape of indenter on the indentation of fabric under differently shaped pinch gripper was investigated.
Abstract: Purpose – This paper presents an experimental study of the influence of variables such as strain rate, the number of fabric plies, the type of fabric, the kinds of fibre and the shape of indenter on the indentation of fabric under differently shaped pinch gripper.Design/methodology/approach – This experimental study will be approached from three different angles. It will look into an indenter pressing a sample with a much larger size, which is important in practice in the world of grasping by a pinch gripper. It will research a flat indenter, but also an indenter with a curved surface and will investigate fabric compression particularly with regard to the differences between single‐layer and multi‐layer stacks.Findings – The type of fabric architecture and the kind of fibre have been proven to be important for the indentation. Even more important is the indenter geometry. Evidence collected to date suggests that the grasping action is more sensitive to indenter geometry. This leads to three possible appro...
TL;DR: In this article, a high-pressure bursting strength tester was designed to operate on both flat specimens and cylindrical specimens and demonstrated that it is capable of yielding reproducible and useful results on coated industrial fabrics of the type used to manufacture inflatable boats.
Abstract: Purpose – The design and construction of a high‐pressure bursting strength tester is described.Design/methodology/approach – The tester has a large aperture and is intended to operate with coated industrial fabrics. To ensure safe operation, since the tester is capable of operating up to pressures of 5,000 kPa, water is used as the inflation medium and all tests are conducted under water. The tester is designed to operate on both flat specimens and cylindrical specimens.Findings – Sample results are reported to demonstrate the successful operation of the tester on plain specimens and on specimens with welded and taped seams. The tester has demonstrated that it is capable of yielding reproducible and useful results on coated industrial fabrics of the type used to manufacture inflatable boats.Practical implications – The low‐cost, high pressure bursting strength tester can be used for lightweight, coated industrial fabrics of the type commonly used in the construction of inflatable boats and liferafts.Origi...
TL;DR: In this article, the synergism of historians, designers, engineers, clothing technologists and textile finishers using specialised equipment has been employed in a project to design, develop and construct specific garment designs for use in Croatia as academic gowns using advanced engineering principles.
Abstract: Purpose – To design, develop and construct specific garment designs for use in Croatia as academic gowns using advanced engineering principles.Design/methodology/approach – The synergism of historians, designers, engineers, clothing technologists and textile finishers using specialised equipment has been employed in this project.Findings – Using interdisciplinarity can yield good results.Research limitations/implications – The research targets specific products, but its methodology may be used for any other products/end users also.Practical implications – Gowns have been designed, made and used in academic ceremonies successfully.Originality/value – Design/technology approach to new product development.
TL;DR: In this paper, an iterative algorithm for minimum search based on parabolic approximations is proposed and applied in the optimisation of mechanical reinforcement in a selected model problem of a buttonhole type.
Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate and illustrate the possibilities of a systematic engineering approach in the design of mechanical reinforcements in garments. A mechanical reinforcement can be designed using optimisation strategies.Design/methodology/approach – In this work, an iterative algorithm for minimum search based on parabolic approximations is proposed and applied in the optimisation of mechanical reinforcement in a selected model problem of a buttonhole type.Findings – Optimisation algorithm based on parabolic approximations, in conjunction with the finite element analysis, offers some promising possibilities as support for the decision‐making process in the design of mechanical reinforcements. The selection of optimisation criteria – influence parameters and corresponding weight factors – remains of course to be studied and implemented by the clothing engineering experts.Research limitations/implications – The intention in future work should be to optimise two or more geome...
TL;DR: The proposed method does not depend on stress iteration, but on the base exchanges in the solution of a standard quadratic programming problem, and presents very good convergence behavior and accurate predictions of wrinkling patterns and stress distributions of cloths.
Abstract: Purpose – An improved mathematical programming method for numerical simulation of cloth wrinkling is investigated.Design/methodology/approach – Cloth is modeled as the network of bars (called bar network) or membrane elements with a special nonlinear mechanical constitutive law in the finite element analysis.Findings – Compared with conventional numerical methods, the proposed method does not depend on stress iteration, but on the base exchanges in the solution of a standard quadratic programming problem. Thus, the new method presents very good convergence behavior and accurate predictions of wrinkling patterns and stress distributions of cloths. Numerical results demonstrate the validity and the efficiency of the proposed method.Originality/value – From the engineering point of view, accurate numerical methods are required in wrinkling analysis of cloth deformation. The algorithm developed here also can be applied into fields such as large deformation under wind load and dynamic behaviors of cloths.