Showing papers in "Textile Research Journal in 1968"
TL;DR: In this article, the plain-knitted structure is shown to be a rationally determinate structure only in the fully-relaxed state; in any other state, the nature of the knitted loop is dependent on the yarn's physical properties, mechanical processing, and knitting variables.
Abstract: The plain-knitted structure is shown to be a rationally determinate structure only in the fully-relaxed state; in any other state, the nature of the knitted loop is dependent on the yarn's physical properties, mechanical processing, and knitting variables. The fully-relaxed state is only found after the fabrics have been thoroughly wetted-out, briefly hydroextracted, and tumble-dried. In this state, the K(1-4) values are constant and predictable and independent of yarn or machine variables. In any other fabric state, values of K (1-4) may vary considerably and have little commercial value. Fabric thickness is shown to be independent of loop length and dependent only on yarn diameter in the fully-relaxed state only.
75 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, an analysis has been made of the geometrically similar tests of bias extension and sim ple shear for plain-woven fabrics, and the analysis makes possible calculation of the values of the equivalent sh...
Abstract: An analysis has been made of the geometrically similar tests of bias extension and sim ple shear for plain-woven fabrics. This analysis makes possible calculation of the values of the equivalent sh...
55 citations
TL;DR: In this article, a linear relationship exists between the initial natural yellowness of scoured wool and the change in yellownness during Xenotest irradiation for any particular period.
Abstract: Changes in the yellowness of wool during exposure to sunlight or to an artificial source resembling sunlight (the Xenotest) depend not only on the relative proportions of blue light and uv radiation, which cause partial bleaching and yellowing, respectively, but also on the exposure period and on the initial natural yellowness of the sample. The bleaching reaction is rapid and short-lived and is most pronounced with deeply yellow wools, whereas uv yellowing is more apparent with paler specimens and is sustained throughout irradiation. Even with the deeply yellow samples, the uv yellow ing reaction eventually supervenes and proceeds at a similar rate for all wools, although the level of yellowness at any particular stage of irradiation varies from one wool to another. A linear relationship exists between the initial natural yellowness of scoured wool and the change in yellowness during Xenotest irradiation for any particular period.Action spectra for changes in shade of naturally yellow wool and of wool af...
45 citations
TL;DR: Deformation mechanism of the elastic region which follows the nonlinear frictional region in shearing of plain-weave fabrics is analyzed, and the elastic shear modulus is determined in terms of the....
Abstract: Deformation mechanism of the elastic region which follows the nonlinear frictional region in shearing of plain-weave fabrics is analyzed, and the elastic shear modulus is determined in terms of the...
42 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the Arbuzov reaction of cotton fabric containing the haloacetamidomethyl groups Cell-OCH2NHCOCH 2X (X=I, Br, Cl) has been studied systematically to prepare new cellulose phosphonate ester derivatives.
Abstract: The Arbuzov reaction of cotton fabric containing the haloacetamidomethyl groups Cell-OCH2NHCOCH 2X (X=I, Br, Cl) has been studied systematically to prepare new cellulose phosphonate ester derivatives. Comparison of flame-retardant properties of the phosphonate derivatives with those of fabric containing a deposited polymer of related structure showed that phosphorus is more efficient in the form of a cellulose derivative. Problems generally associated with fabrics containing flame-retardant finishes, notably stiffness, were also minimized in the case of derivative formation. Laundering durability was excellent.Further studies on the synergistic effect of nitrogen on flame retardant properties confirmed earlier results and showed that cotton sheeting fabric containing an N/P ratio of 3 at 2% P, 6 at 1.4% P, and about 12 at 0.9% P passed the vertical flame test.
41 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the formation and dissociation of N-methylol compounds, as well as a study of their equilibrium states in relation to concentration, temperature, and catalysts, have been investigated.
Abstract: Kinetic and thermodynamic studies on the formation and dissociation of N-methylol compounds, as well as a study of their equilibrium states in relation to concentration, temperature, and catalysts, on the cross-linking of N-methylol and N-alkoxymethyl compounds with nucleophilic reactants, such as the hydroxy groups of cellulose, on the stability of the N-alkoxymethyl compounds in alkaline and acid media, and on the processes involved in chlorine retention, have led to an explanation of the mechanisms underlying these reactions, and to an understanding of the influence of such factors as electron density at the nitrogen atom (as determined by the methylolation rate in general or by the carbonyl wave number. in the case of ureas and acid amides), basic centers, possible steric hindrance and anchimeric groups on the application properties of these substances. Regular relationships have been established between their chemical consti tution and properties, which make possible a more reliable prediction of the...
40 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the shape of the arithmetic plot of the loss of dye is determined by the physical condition and environment of the coloring matter, and a change in concentration does not usually change the class of fade.
Abstract: All lightfading rates of dyed or pigmented materials can be divided into five main classes and some subgroups, according to the shape of the arithmetic plot of rate of loss of dye. The physical condition and environment of the coloring matter appear to be principal factors determinipg the shape; a change in concentration does not usually change the class of fade.Class I fades are approximately first-order curves and are indicative of dye dispersed as single molecules or very small associated units. Class II fades are initially class I but later become linear (zero order), probably because a high proportion of coloring matter either is firmly embedded in the substrate molecules or is present as relatively large associated units. Class III fades resemble the later portion of Class II for similar reasons.Class IV fades have a point of inflection, with a more rapid fade following an initial slow change or even an apparent negative fade, i.e., an increase in depth of color; class V fades accelerate continuousl...
39 citations
TL;DR: A durable flame retardant based on tetrakis (hydroxymethyl ) phosphonium hydroxide (THPOH), urea, and trimethylolmelamine has been developed and applied to cotton fabric as discussed by the authors.
Abstract: A durable-flame retardant based on tetrakis (hydroxymethyl ) phosphonium hydroxide (THPOH), urea, and trimethylolmelamine has been developed and applied to cotton fabric. The process is accomplishe...
39 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors studied the mechanics of rupture propagation in blended yarns and found that the rupture propagates catastrophically upon tensile failure of a few low-elongation fibers.
Abstract: Our studies of the mechanics of rupture of blended yarns have been concerned primarily with the transfer of stresses from the fiber component which breaks first to the component which breaks last. The accepted practice of blending fibers with widely differing elongationsto-break makes it important to understand the nature of rupture propagation in blended textile yarns. For if the rupture propagates catastrophically upon tensile failure of a few low-elongation fibers, then the yarn, as
39 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the crimp structure of the fibers, crimp form and crimp frequency together accounting for 88.6% of the observed varia tions in compressional load.
Abstract: Extremely large variations occur in the compressional properties of wool samples. These variations are attributed to differences in the crimp structure of the fibers, crimp form and crimp frequency together accounting for 88.6% of the observed varia tions in compressional load. Alternatively, a single variable consisting of the product of crimp frequency and fiber diameter accounted for 88.7% of the variations. Other characteristics such as diameter, length, and mechanical properties of single fibers proved to be nonsignificant.
38 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the 1×1 rib and half-cardigan structures, like the plain-knitted structure, are shown to be rationally determinate structures only in the fully-relaxed state; in any other state, their dimensional properties are unknown.
Abstract: The 1×1 rib and half-cardigan structures, like the plain-knitted structure, are shown to be rationally determinate structures only in the fully-relaxed state; in any other state, their dimensional ...
TL;DR: In this paper, the shrinkage resistance of air-corona corona fields was investigated, and it was shown that an air/chlorine volume ratio of about 14/1 gives excellent results.
Abstract: The felting shrinkage resistance imparted to wool by an air-corona field increases to a maximum near 100°C, decreases to a minimum at about 115-120°C, and then increases at higher temperatures. At 100°C and 415 Hz, the shrinkage resistance increases to a maximum at about 17.5 kV, then decreases rapidly. Ozone is believed not responsible for the shrinkage resistance because corona cells operating at about 90°C or higher generate little ozone.Chlorine gas in the air-corona field markedly increases the rate at . which wool is made shrink-resistant. An air/chlorine volume ratio of about 14/1 gives excellent results. If either nitrogen or oxygen, instead of air, is mixed with chlorine, only about half as much shrinkage resistance is achieved. A contribution of oxides of nitrogen to shrink resistance is suggested. Treatment effectiveness of an air-chlorine corona field is increased by adding hydrated salts to the wool or by the presence of water or HCI in the gas. Under conditions which produce satisfactory shr...
TL;DR: In this article, the cyclic anhydride was detected from dissociation of model ester compounds at elevated tempera tures; similar cyclic ahydrides are the probable intermediates in transesterification of ester linkages in cotton cellulose polycarboxylates.
Abstract: Ester cross linkages in cotton cellulose have been investigated for mobility (trans esterification) at elevated temperature. Cotton cellulose polycarboxylates were prepared by reaction of cotton print cloth with polycarboxylic acids having 3-6 carboxyl groups per molecule, at least two of the carboxyl groups being on adjacent carbon atoms. Durable creases were developed to various degrees when these fabrics were subjected to thermal creasing treatments subsequent to the cross-linking reaction. Thermal mobil ity of ester linkages in selected model compounds has been shown to result from participation of the unesterified carboxyl group adjacent to the ester linkage. The cyclic anhydride was detected from dissociation of model ester compounds at elevated tempera tures; similar cyclic anhydrides are the probable intermediates in transesterification of ester linkages in cotton cellulose polycarboxylates.
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the adsorption of Chlorazol Sky Blue FF on cotton fiber from aqueous solutions of 0.1 N LiCl, NaCl, KCl, RbCl, and CsCl.
Abstract: Investigations were carried out to study the adsorption of Chlorazol Sky Blue FF on cotton fiber from aqueous solutions of 0.1 N LiCl, NaCl, KCl, RbCl, and CsCl. The dye uptake both at 50° and 60° increased markedly with increasing size of the alkali metal cation. The equilibrium dye adsorption could be described by a Langmuir-type equation. The calculated standard affinity of dye adsorption showed a fairly constant value, but the exothermic heat of dyeing and the entropy of dyeing, calculated from the individual isotherms, increased as the dye adsorption increased in the presence of either higher electrolyte concentrations or equivalent concentrations of alkali metal cations of larger size. Possible changes in the orientation of adsorbed dye ions on the cellulose surface can account for the increased -ΔH° and -ΔS° values. It is pointed out that, apart from the usual well known effects of electrolyte cations, an ,important contributory factor to the adsorption process arises from the disturbance caused by...
TL;DR: The degradation of yarns of viscose rayon, cellulose (secondary) acetate rayon and nylon 6.6, both free from and containing titanium dioxide (anatase), has been studied at different temperatures as mentioned in this paper.
Abstract: The degradation of undyed yarns of viscose rayon, cellulose (secondary) acetate rayon, and nylon 6.6, both free from and containing titanium dioxide (anatase), has been studied at different temperatures. The degradation in moist air is particularly marked at high temperatures. A possible reaction mechanism for the sensitizing effect of titanium dioxide is discussed.
TL;DR: In this article, an expression for the strength of the blended yarn at optimum twist was derived, in terms of the strengths of yarns spun from the two components at the optimum twist, and good agreement between the predicted and observed values was found over a range of cottons and counts.
Abstract: An expression is derived for the strength of the blended yarn spun at optimum twist, in terms of the strengths of yarns spun from the two components at optimum twist. Good agreement between the predicted and observed values is found over a range of cottons and counts. The strength deficiency of the blended yarn is partly due to the differential response of the two components to twist. The evenness of the yarn is better than would have been expected, in contrast to the results for the yarn strength.
TL;DR: Haworth, S., Roberts, J. G., and Robinson, R. N., Textilveredlung 2, 361 (1967) as discussed by the authors, and Neely, W. E. and Bingham, B. E., Textile Res. 34, 257-265 (1964).
Abstract: 13. Haworth, S., Roberts, J. G,. and Robinson, R. N., Textilveredlung 2, 361 (1967). 14. Hodge, J. E., Karjala, S. A., and Hilbert, G. E., J. Amer. Chem. Soc. 73, 3 12 (1951). 15. Jones, D. M., Textile Res. J. 34, 257-265 (1964). 16. Klein, E. and Bingham, B. E. M., Textile Res. J. 34, 585-593 (1964). 17. Lewin, M. and Weinstein, S., Textile Res. J. 37, 751-763 (1967). 18. Neely, W. B., Nott, J., and Roberts, C. B., Anal. Chem. 34, 1423 (1962). 19. Pacsu, E. and Steele, R., Textile Res. J. 19, 771783 (1949). 20. Patel, S., Rivlin, Joseph, Samuelson, T., Stamm, O. A., and Zollinger, H., Helv. Chim. Acta 51, in
TL;DR: The conclusion has been drawn that these treatments degrade the protein inside the scales so that it becomes more viscous and less elastic, particularly when it is swollen by or dissolved in water.
Abstract: When wool fibers which have been shrinkproofed by either the KMnO4/salt process or a dry chlorination process are examined with the optical microscope, normally, very little effect of the treatment can be seen. However, if they are straightened for the examination, a number of differences between treated and control fibers can easily be seen, especially if water is present. The principal effects are that the scales on the treated fibers, but not on the untreated, become less prominent as the fibers are straightened and that this change is much greater on the side which was the intrados of the crimp curve than on the extrados. Microscopic observation of fibers sliding on each other or over a diffraction grating also reveals effects of the treatment: the deforma tion of the scales of treated fibers is more plastic and less elastic than that of untreated and the sliding of the treated fibers is more heavily damped. From these and other observations, the conclusion has been drawn that these treatments degrade...
TL;DR: In this article, the authors show that correlograms obtained from the patterns with superimposed short-term variations on a regular long-term variation do not appreciate the presence of irregular variation, but oscillate with the same periodicity as that of the regular part in the origi. nal pattern.
Abstract: The correlograms obtained from the patterns with superimposed short-term variations on a regular long-term variation do not appreciate the presence of irregular variation, but oscillate with the same periodicity as that of the regular part in the origi. nal pattern. There is some deformation observed in the shape of the correlogram, This behavior, i.e., the correlogram depicting only the regular changes in the migration, supports the view put forward by Hearle and Bose [1] and Hearle, Gupta, and Goswami [2]. The correlogram becomes very irregular and fails
TL;DR: In this article, the dependence of yarn shrinkage rate upon yarn count, cover factor, shrink proofing level, and severity of washing action has been examined, using plain knitted wool fabrics.
Abstract: The dependence of felting shrinkage rate upon yarn count, cover factor, shrink proofing level, and severity of washing action has been examined, using plain-knitted wool fabrics. The investigation was a factorial arrangement with 54 combinations of factors for each of two shrink-proofing treatments. The results were subjected to analyses of variance. The felting shrinkage rate was lowered by increasing the cover factor, by increasing the level of shrinkproofing treatment, and by decreasing the severity of washing. Samples made from fine yarn shrank at a lower rate than those of heavier count. There were two significant interactions between the factors for each set of data. These showed that (i) the shrinkage rates of the fabrics made from the fine yarns were more sensitive to change of cover factor than were those of the coarser yams, and (ii) an increased level of shrinkproofing treatment increased the sensitivity of the samples to the severity of the mechanical agitation during washing. The results may ...
TL;DR: In this article, surface and volume resistivities, charge generation by friction with nylon, poly ethylene and Teflon, and rates of decay of charge in air were determined for 29 fabrics at 25, 38, and 65% RH.
Abstract: Surface and volume resistivities, charge generation by friction with nylon, poly ethylene and Teflon, and rates of decay of charge in air were determined for 29 fabrics at 25, 38, and 65% RH. In addition, the coefficients of kinetic friction were determined at 65% RH. The initial charges generated were approximately the same for all the fabrics and were independent of relative humidity for the range used. However, these initial charges varied with the surfaces against which the fabrics rubbed, but the varia tion has no relationship to the coefficients of friction. For some of the fabrics, the decay curves (In voltage/time) were linear. However, for most of the fabrics, the decay curves were linear only after several minutes, and these curves are shown to be the sum of two linear components. Good correlation is shown to exist between the electrical resistivities and the rates of charge decay, especially at low values of relative humidity.
TL;DR: Fiber toughness, fabric construction, and pretreatment were found to affect abrasive wear in permanent-press trouser cuffs as mentioned in this paper, and they used Pima S-2, Hopi Acala, and Delta pine 15 cottons.
Abstract: Fiber toughness, fabric construction, and pretreatment were found to affect abrasive wear in permanent-press trouser cuffs. Samples of Pima S-2, Hopi Acala, and Delta pine 15 cottons were processed...
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated the relationship between the hydrolysis rate with cellulase and the swelling degree of the cellulose fibers of different samples and found that the water retention value (WRV) determined by the centrifugal method was used as a measure of swelling degree.
Abstract: We investigated some relationships between the hydrolysis rate with cellulase and the swelling degree of the cellulose fibers of different samples. The water retention value (WRV) determined by the centrifugal method was used as a measure of the swelling degree. A linear relationship was observed between the hydrolysis rate and the WRV of the untreated pulps of different chemical composition and crystallinity. A similar linearity was observed also for pulps treated mechanically or chemically, but the slope of the regression line differed with the treating methods, and it decreased in proportion with the degree of degradation of the fiber structure.
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used alcohol soluble leather dyes to color area-bonded sheets and achieved a good color depth with dyestuffs of this class, while only surface dyeing of the filaments is achieved.
Abstract: The polyethylene polymer base makes ese sheets inherently difficult to dye. Where color tion is desired, it is best achieved by printing. However, where it is desirable to color the sheet throughout its thickness, alcohol soluble leather dyes may be used. Alcohols readily wet out pointor area-bonded sheets and will carry .dyestuffs throughout the structure. While only surface dyeing of the filaments is achieved, the dense’fiher structure leads to reasonably good color depth with dyestuffs of this class.
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of various carding parameters on hooking and loading characteristics and on yarn quality has been investigated for a California 15/32 -in. cotton yarn, and it was shown that increased doffer and cylinder speeds, at a constant carding rate, were seen to decrease yarn imperfections.
Abstract: The effect of various carding parameters on hooking and loading characteristics and on yarn quality has been investigated for a California 15/32 -in. cotton.Lickerin speeds and method of doffing the card web were shown to have no effect on the pattern of hook formation which is influenced mainly by cylinder and doffer speeds and the hank of the delivered sliver. These same factors also influence the loading on the cylinder and the coefhcient of transfer of fibers to the doffer. No clear-cut relationship between loading and hooking has, however, emerged. Increased doffer and cylinder speeds, at a constant carding rate, were seen to decrease yarn imperfections.
TL;DR: In this paper, an uncatalyzed reaction of formaldehyde with cotton cellulose at 125°C was described, and the fabric properties of the product were characterized, and it was shown that this formaldehyde-modified fabric h...
Abstract: An uncatalyzed reaction of formaldehyde with cotton cellulose at 125°C is described, and the fabric properties of the product are characterized. It is shown that this formaldehyde-modified fabric h...
TL;DR: In this article, the authors used polyethyleneglycols and cross-linking agents in a conventional pad-dry-cure process to produce fabrics with the unusual combination of high dry wrinkle and low wet wrinkle recovery.
Abstract: By use of polyethyleneglycols and cross-linking agents in a conventional pad-dry-cure process, fabrics have been produced with the unusual combination of high dry wrinkle and low wet wrinkle recovery. These fabrics and others with the various combinations of dry and wet wrinkle recovery have been examined in terms of the mechanisms for dry and wet wrinkle recovery. On the basis of certain textile properties, an explanation is offered for this unusual combination of high dry and low wet recovery.
TL;DR: In this article, a method to improve the lightfastness of brightened wool must be devised, in order to achieve the high level of whiteness that current fashion demands seems to be obtainable only by the use of fluorescent brighteners.
Abstract: than unbrightened wool, fluorescent brighteners [6] are still widely used during the processing of wool intended for sale in white or pastel shades. The high level of whiteness that current fashion demands seems to be obtainable only by the use of brighteners. It is, therefore, highly desirable to discover new brighteners having superior lightfastness, when applied to wool, than the brighteners presently available. In the meantime, alternative means to improve the lightfastness of brightened wool must be devised. ’
TL;DR: In this paper, the stress-strain curves of several bonded fiber fabrics have been theoretically determined from measurements of the properties and arrangement of the constituent fibers, and these curves are compared with the measured fabric stress-strain curves.
Abstract: The stress-strain curves of several bonded fiber fabrics have been theoretically determined from measurements of the properties and arrangement of the constituent fibers, and these curves are compared with the measured fabric stress-strain curves. The results demonstrate how the behavior of the fiber network can influence that of the fabric and indicate that the behavior of the binder must be introduced for a complete explanation of the fabric behavior at high strains.