Journal ArticleDOI
Random breaking waves: A closed-form solution for planar beaches
Reads0
Chats0
TLDR
In this paper, a closed-form transformation of random variable is performed to yield the probability density function for wave height across a beach of uniform slope starting from a Rayleigh distribution well seaward of the surf zone, the transformation is accomplished by using linear wave theory for shoaling and an analytical solution of a model for decay of regular waves due to breaking.About:
This article is published in Coastal Engineering.The article was published on 1990-06-01. It has received 52 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Surf zone & Wave setup.read more
Citations
More filters
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores
TL;DR: In this article, a model distribution consisting of a Rayleigh distribution, or a Weibull distribution with exponent equal to 2, for the lower wave heights and a higher exponent for the higher wave heights was proposed.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave transformation across the inner surf zone
TL;DR: In this article, a numerical model based on the one-dimensional nonlinear shallow water equations with bore dissipation was proposed to predict the cross-shore variation of energy at both infragravity (nominally 0.004 < f < 0.05 Hz) and sea swell (here 0.5 < f ≤ 0.18 Hz) frequencies.
Journal ArticleDOI
Breaking probabilities for dominant surface waves on water of finite constant depth
TL;DR: In this article, the authors proposed a finite depth water parameterization for the environmental dependence of dominant wave breaking probability, given by the average number of breakers passing a fixed point per dominant wave period, and the additional influence of bottom interaction with the wind drift current shear and wind forcing are also included in their finite constant depth formulation.
Journal ArticleDOI
Numerical Model of Longshore Current for Bar and Trough Beaches
Magnus Larson,Nicholas C. Kraus +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a numerical modeling system called NMLONG was developed to calculate the wave height, wave direction, mean water level, and steadystate timeaveraged longshore current velo...
Book
SBEACH: Numerical Model for Simulating Storm-Induced Beach Change. Report 2. Numerical Formulation and Model Tests
TL;DR: In this article, the authors present the second in a series on the numerical model SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange), which calculates dune and beach erosion produced by storm waves and water levels; bar formation and movement produced by breaking waves are also simulated.
References
More filters
Journal ArticleDOI
Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves
J.A. Battjes,J.P.F.M. Janssen +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a model was developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach and the probability of occurrence of breaking waves was estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth.
Journal ArticleDOI
Transformation of wave height distribution
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors reviewed earlier models of random wave transformation and described the transformation of waves, including dissipation due to breaking and bottom friction, by an energy flux balance model, and compared results from random wave experiments in the laboratory and from an extensive set of field measurements.
Journal ArticleDOI
Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches
TL;DR: Breaker type, for waves on smooth concrete slopes, depends on beach slope m, wave period T, and either deep-water or breaker height, H 0 or Hb as discussed by the authors.
Journal ArticleDOI
Calibration and Verification of a Dissipation Model for Random Breaking Waves
J.A. Battjes,Marcel J. F. Stive +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the average rate of energy dissipation in random waves breaking in shallow water, published previously by Battjes and Janssen (1978), has been applied to an extensive set of data for the purposes of calibration and verification.
Proceedings ArticleDOI
Energy loss and set-up due to breaking random waves
J.A. Battjes,J.P.F.M. Janssen +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a model was developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach, based on a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off determined mainly by the local depth.