Journal ArticleDOI
Stokes drift in two-dimensional wave flumes
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In this paper, a complete second-order solution for the two-dimensional wave motion forced by a generic planar wavemaker is presented, which is doubly articulated and includes both piston and hinged wavemakers of variable draught.Abstract:
A complete second-order solution is presented for the two-dimensional wave motion forced by a generic planar wavemaker. The wavemaker is doubly articulated and includes both piston and hinged wavemakers of variable draught. It is shown that the first-order evanescent eigenseries cannot be neglected when computing the amplitude of the second-order free wave. A previously neglected, time-independent solution that is required to satisfy an inhomogeneous kinematic boundary condition on the wavemaker as well as an inhomogeneous Neumann boundary condition on the free surface is examined in detail for the first time. The time-independent solution is found to accurately estimate the mean return flow in a closed wave flume computed by the Eulerian method. This mean return current due to Stokes drift is usually estimated using the principle of kinematic conservation of mass flux. Even though the first-order eigenseries will converge for any geometry of a generic planar wavemaker, the second-order solutions obtained from Stokes perturbation expansions will not converge for all planar wavemaker geometries.read more
Citations
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Second-order wavemaker theory for irregular waves
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Progression and Variability of Damage on Rubble Mound Breakwaters
TL;DR: In this article, the mean and standard deviation of the damage variables are represented empirically by the mean eroded area alone, whereas the probability distributions of the normalized variables were practically invariant.
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Extension of second-order Stokes theory to variable bathymetry
TL;DR: In this paper, the second-order Stokes theory has been extended to the case of a generally shaped bottom profile connecting two half-strips of constant (but possibly different) depths, initiating a method for generalizing the Stokes hierarchy of second-and higher-order wave theory, without the assumption of spatial periodicity.
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Second-order wavemaker theory for multidirectional waves
TL;DR: In this article, the authors developed the complete second-order wavemaker theory for the generation of multidirectional waves in a semi-infinite basin, including superharmonics and subharmonics.
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Drag forces on aquatic plants in nonlinear random waves plus current
TL;DR: In this article, a stochastic plant-flow interactions are characterised by an assemblage of processes acting at different temporal and spatial scales, and the expected wave induced forces on a plant in linear/nonlinear random wave plus current based on two different C D formulations for waves alone and waves plus current.
References
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Book
Water wave mechanics for engineers and scientists
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student, with a set of homework problems exercising and sometimes extending the material presented in the chapter.
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TL;DR: In this article, the authors present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from a deterministic point of view, and the bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Journal ArticleDOI
Mass transport in water waves
TL;DR: In this article, a general theory of mass transport is developed, which takes account of the viscosity, and leads to results in agreement with observation, and is shown that the nature of the motion in the interior depends upon the ratio of the wave amplitude a to the thickness δ of the boundary layer.