Vertical and horizontal structure in cross-shore flows: An example of undertow and wave set-up on a barred beach
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Greenwood et al. as mentioned in this paper measured the horizontal, cross-shore velocity field in the lowermost meter of the water column, in association with measurements of waves and the mean elevation of water surface, across a nontidal, low relief, barred surf-zone.About:
This article is published in Coastal Engineering.The article was published on 1990-12-01 and is currently open access. It has received 54 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Undertow & Breaking wave.read more
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The Effect of Tide Range on Beach Morphodynamics and Morphology: A Conceptual Beach Model
TL;DR: In this paper, a conceptual model is presented in which beach morphology (beach type) may be predicted using the dimensionless fall velocity and the relative tide range, whereby the mean spring tide range (MSR) is used to calculate the relative time series.
Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone
TL;DR: In this article, a theoretical model for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone is developed for wave flux, radiation stress, and energy dissipation, and the transitions immediately after breaking are analyzed and shown to be in accordance with the above mentioned ideas.
Journal ArticleDOI
Frequency dependent cross-shore suspended sediment transport. 1. A non-barred shoreface
TL;DR: In this article, the authors measured near-bed velocity and sediment concentration vectors using electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatterance suspended solids sensors, and determined the local, time-varying and time-averaged suspended sediment transports across a marine, non-barred shoreface.
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Mechanisms for beach erosion during storms
TL;DR: In this paper, a collocated pressure transducer (PT), electromagnetic current meter (EMCM) and optical backscatter sensor (OBS) were used to measure waves, bi-directional currents and suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs) respectively.
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Morphodynamics of meso- and macrotidal beaches: examples from central Queensland, Australia
Gerhard Masselink,Bruce Hegge +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the authors performed detailed measurements of the morphology, waves, and longshore and cross-shore currents on two beaches on the low to medium-energy, macrotidal coastline of central Queensland (Australia).
References
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Testing for serial correlation in least squares regression. II.
James Durbin,G. S. Watson +1 more
TL;DR: The problem of testing the errors for independence forms the subject of this paper and its successor and deals mainly with the theory on which the test is based, while the second paper describes the test procedures in detail and gives tables of bounds to the significance points of the test criterion adopted.
Book
BMD : biomedical computer programs
TL;DR: This book is very referred for you because it gives not only the experience but also lesson, it is about this book that will give wellness for all people from many societies.
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Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications
TL;DR: The radiation stresses in water waves play an important role in a variety of oceanographic phenomena, for example in the change in mean sea level due to storm waves (wave set-up), the generation of "surf-beats", the interaction of waves with steady currents, and the steepening of short gravity waves on the crests of longer waves as discussed by the authors.
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Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves
J.A. Battjes,J.P.F.M. Janssen +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a model was developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach and the probability of occurrence of breaking waves was estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth.