Showing papers in "International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology in 1998"
TL;DR: This paper used nonlinear optimization methods and anthropometric data of US Army women to derive three multidimensional sizing systems that are designed to provide improved fit for women from the USA, a population with much variation.
Abstract: Most apparel sizing systems are based on one or two body dimensions and rely on assumptions about proportional body relationships to project other dimensions necessary to design the garment pattern. Garments from these systems will not fit a population with large variations in body proportions. Using nonlinear optimization methods and anthropometric data of US Army women three multidimensional sizing systems were derived that are designed to provide improved fit for women from the USA, a population with much variation. These systems range from an optimized linear system with a regular grade to an unconstrained optimized system with a grade break at each size. The optimized sizing systems compare favorably with D5585‐94 in their ability to accommodate variation in the population based on a mathematical test of the aggregate loss of each system. Issues related to pattern grading, size selection, and calculation of stock keeping units are discussed.
119 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a no-interval coherently phased product development (NICPPD) model is proposed for apparel product development with multiple convergent points and coherently-phased divisions.
Abstract: Existing literature clearly documents the importance of new product development to success of a manufacturing firm. Many examples of generic models of the process, including sequential, concurrent, and multiple convergent models, can be found. However, these models are of insufficient detail to provide an adequate foundation for redesigning the apparel product development process. The no‐interval coherently phased product development (NICPPD) model for apparel introduced in this paper documents apparel product development as a six phase process with multiple convergent points and coherently phased divisions. The NICPPD model provides for developing both product lines and individual products, developing seasonal lines and multiple seasons annually, and use of alternative development strategies including original design development, knock‐offs or take‐offs, and modification of existing products. Multiple applications for use of the NICPPD model by both researchers and practitioners in examining and improving the apparel product development process are identified.
65 citations
TL;DR: This paper presents the details of a GA and discusses the main characteristics of an assembly line balancing problem that is typical in the clothing industry and explains how such problems can be formulated for genetic algorithms to solve.
Abstract: Assembly line balancing problems that occur in real world situations are dynamic and are fraught with various sources of uncertainties such as the performance of workers and the breakdown of machinery. This is especially true in the clothing industry. The problem cannot normally be solved deterministically using existing techniques. Recent advances in computing technology, especially in the area of computational intelligence, however, can be used to alleviate this problem. For example, some techniques in this area can be used to restrict the search space in a combinatorial problem, thus opening up the possibility of obtaining better results. Among the different computational intelligence techniques, genetic algorithms (GA) is particularly suitable. GAs are probabilistic search methods that employ a search technique based on ideas from natural genetics and evolutionary principles. In this paper, we present the details of a GA and discuss the main characteristics of an assembly line balancing problem that is typical in the clothing industry. We explain how such problems can be formulated for genetic algorithms to solve. To evaluate the appropriateness of the technique, we have carried out some experiments. Our results show that the GA approach performs much better than the use of a greedy algorithm, which is used by many factory supervisors to tackle the assembly line balancing problem.
54 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size, coefficient of yarn metal friction, twist direction, number of piles, type of fibre and fibre denier on strength reduction has been studied and found to influence the severity of strength reduction of the thread.
Abstract: The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size, coefficient of yarn‐metal friction, twist direction, number of piles, type of fibre and fibre denier on strength reduction has been studied and found to influence the severity of strength reduction of the thread.
47 citations
TL;DR: There has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment, and the need for 3D working methods in garment design is considered.
Abstract: States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.
44 citations
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated three main factors for manufacturing high quality garments: the selection of good fabrics for the garments, the process control of garment manufacturing, and the performance and correct adjustment of manufacturing machines such as sewing machines.
Abstract: Engineered manufacturing of high quality garments has long been a target of textile technology. There are three main factors for manufacturing high quality garments. They are: the selection of good fabrics for the garments; the process control of garment manufacturing; and the performance and correct adjustment of manufacturing machines such as sewing machines. In recent years, objective evaluation technology of fabric quality has been developed, and many researchers are now moving toward the engineered design of fabric quality based on this objective evaluation technology. The present authors are also conducting research on these three factors on the basis of the development of objective evaluation technology. This paper consists of two parts. The first part is a brief introduction about the investigation of the first and the second factors, which have been investigated by the authors. The second part presents our recent research on seam pucker problems. This problem is a machine‐materials interaction problem, and the mechanical properties of sewing thread and fabric are closely connected in this problem.
29 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors proposed an algorithm for the computation of maximum needle penetration force; it introduces the direct dependence of penetration force on fabric structural parameters and warp and weft geometrical and mechanical properties.
Abstract: Proposes an algorithm for the computation of maximum needle penetration force; it introduces the direct dependence of penetration force on fabric structural parameters and warp and weft geometrical and mechanical properties. Uses the approach to the simulation of local deformation of woven material which accounts for the thread resistance to crimp change and friction forces when the thread is shifted from its original position in the fabric structure as the result of its interaction with a needle. The resistance of threads to tension caused by a needle pushing them from their straight‐line paths is also accounted for. The resulting formulae give the dependence of needle penetration force for a plain‐woven fabric on the following parameters: needle diameter and surface angle; warp and weft spacing, dimensions, crimp height and bending rigidity; friction coefficients thread‐thread and thread‐needle. For a non‐plain‐woven fabric the linear dependence of penetration force on the fabric tightness is suggested. The comparison with the published and specially measured penetration force data proves the predictive ability of the model to be qualitatively accurate and quantitatively reasonable.
25 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, the yield point of thread and stress in flow point is determined with the well-known Meredith's and Coplan's construction, which has the basis in tangent method and numerical method, developed from sufficient smooth approximation of the curve.
Abstract: In this work the study of yield point of thread and stress in flow point is shown. The determination of this point is done with the well‐known Meredith’s and Coplan’s construction, which has the basis in tangent method and numerical method, which is developed from sufficient smooth approximation of the curve. The approximation polynomial expression of the ninth order was chosen for the construction of the mean curve σ (e) which, as the sufficiently smooth curve, fits the measured values.
21 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, computer simulations of seam pucker were performed using the same properties and shape of seam line as the sample fabric and a fairly similar shape was obtained by the simulation.
Abstract: States that computer simulations of seam pucker were executed. The simulations were based on the computer program which predicts the shape of virtual fabric with an assumption that the relationship between stress and strain of the virtual fabric is linear. The simulations predicted the shape of fabric with the conditions such as material puckering and mechanical properties of fabric. The rating of simulated seam pucker changes according to material puckering. It was shown that bending stiffness and tensile modulus affect the rating of seam pucker. Seam pucker samples were made from fabric for comparison. Computerised seam pucker samples were executed utilising the same properties and shape of seam line as the sample fabric. A fairly similar shape was obtained by the simulation.
18 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, a model is presented for the calculation by approximation of a drape test standardized in the textile industry, where the fabric can be considered to be a two-dimensional continuum.
Abstract: In this paper a model is presented for the calculation by approximation of a drape test standardized in the textile industry. As woven fabric is of low thickness compared with the other dimensions, the fabric can be considered to be a two‐dimensional continuum. For the simulation model, the shell theory is taken as a basis. Simulating the drape behaviour presents a geometrically non‐linear field problem with considerable displacements.
13 citations
TL;DR: In this paper, it is suggested that the principle of a future on-line system to evaluate fabric bending behaviour should be based on the characterisation of fabric loop shapes, and discussed the importance and potential applications of an online mechanical property measurement system.
Abstract: Low‐stress mechanical properties of fabrics are very important in many applications as well as in manufacturing process control. Discusses the importance and potential applications of an on‐line mechanical property measurement system. In addition, the working principles of existing off‐ line fabric bending testers have been critically reviewed. It is suggested that the principle of a future on‐line system to evaluate fabric bending behaviour should be based on the characterisation of fabric loop shapes.
TL;DR: In this paper, the suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters was analyzed and discussed with repetition of dry cleaning of adhesive fabrics.
Abstract: Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of the garment. The objective of this study is to analyse suitability of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose of this study, specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made of nylon/polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Mechanical properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with three nonwoven interlinings are measured by the KES‐FB System for analysing the suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. Some mechanical properties of fused fabrics are analysed and discussed with repetition of dry cleaning of adhesive fabrics for performing effects of dry cleaning to the suitability of nonwoven fusible interlining to the shell fabrics.
TL;DR: In this paper, a collision detection technique for collision detection between fabric and fabric or fabric and body, applied on a physical-based fabric drape model, is described and discussed.
Abstract: This paper presents a new technique for collision detection between fabric and fabric or fabric and body, applied on our physical‐based fabric drape model. The technique can produce a realistic 3D virtual fashion show based on fabric mechanical properties and has the ability to handle the collision of clothing with an animated synthetic human. The collision technique appeared efficient and reliable when dealing with complex cases of fabric deformation. A full implementation of the drape model, collision detection with an animated human model is also described and discussed.
TL;DR: The contribution presents an analysis of important parameters that influence the sewing needle selection in women's underwear production and the importance of those parameters in ensuring the appropriate seam quality is described.
Abstract: Selection of suitable sewing needle is one of the most important parameters for ensuring an effective and fault‐free sewing process. This task requires good knowledge of basic characteristics of a sewing needle, i.e. needle type, point shape and needle fineness. Also good knowledge of sewing materials is required. The contribution presents an analysis of important parameters that influence the sewing needle selection in women’s underwear production. The importance of those parameters in ensuring the appropriate seam quality is described. The selection of a suitable sewing needle was carried out on the basis of analysis of influential sewing parameters with application of machine learning from examples.
TL;DR: In this paper, two statistical methods, moving group average and moving divided group average, were used to solve the problem of repetitive, tedious and physically demanding human inspection for defects in shirt collars.
Abstract: Recent developments in the hardware and software mean that the automation of visual fabric inspection tasks is becoming feasible at low cost. This paper investigates the techniques that can be used to solve the problem of repetitive, tedious and physically demanding human inspection for defects in shirt collars. The faults studied in this work are those found in nine types of defects that can be present on shirt collar panels. Two statistical methods: moving group average, and moving divided group average are proposed. In addition, highlighting and variance techniques are applied to an image with moving group average and signature counting. These techniques gave an indication of fast computation time to detect the defects on the image, which is needed in manufacturing, and could be applied to most automated inspection systems.
TL;DR: Characteristics of measuring instruments and sensors have been given, together with measuring process description, all connected with two independent video‐camera systems, working in two planes, used for working operation analysis at workplaces in garment sewing operations.
Abstract: A measuring system for automatic process parameter acquisition in garment sewing operations has been presented. The measuring equipment is based upon the usage of a very powerful portable notebook IBM compatible personal computer, equipped with an AD converter, measuring instruments and adequate software packages for data storing and analysis. Characteristics of measuring instruments and sensors have also been given, together with measuring process description, all connected with two independent video‐camera systems, working in two planes, used for working operation analysis at workplaces in garment sewing operations.
TL;DR: In this article, the effects of twisting and sizing on microdenier filament fabric are studied and compared for their low stress mechanical properties and hand values, and it is shown that sizing is the most important process for micro-denier multifilament yarn to realize its speciality effect in the fabric made out of this yarn.
Abstract: Polyester filament fabrics made from microdenier and normal denier yarn are compared for their low stress mechanical properties and hand values. Effects of twisting and sizing on microdenier filament fabric are studied. Sizing proves to be the most important process for microdenier multifilament yarn to realise its speciality effect in the fabric made out of this yarn.
TL;DR: In this article, a system for automatic knowledge acquisition from a given set of examples presents an alternative way to build a knowledge base to determine the quality of a fused panel, based on analyses of influential factors of fused panel quality.
Abstract: The paper presents the objective evaluation and prediction of properties of a fused panel. A system for automatic knowledge acquisition from a given set of examples presents an alternative way to build a knowledge base to determine the quality of a fused panel. On the basis of analyses of influential factors of fused panel quality the learning and testing set of examples to predict the bonding strength of fused panel has been formed.
TL;DR: In this article, the anisotropic linear elastic behavior of woven fabrics, fusible interlinings and their composites was studied on order to invesigate the accuracy of equations used to predict the linear elastic behaviour of fabric for in plane and bending deformation.
Abstract: As CAD fabric modelling becomes more widespread there is a need to study the applicability of fabric property parameters which are used in predicting fabric behaviour. The anisotropical mechanical behaviour of woven fabrics, fusible interlinings and their composites were studied on order to invesigate the accuracy of equations used to predict the anisotropic linear elastic behaviour of fabric for in plane and bending deformation. Bending, shear and tensile properties were measured using KES©F equipment. Results showed that the orthotropic model of anisotropy can be applied for the qualitative modelling of woven and fusible interlining fabrics and that simple mechanical models for bending properties can be used for their composites.
TL;DR: In this article, the nonlinear differential equations used are generalised into a nonlinear evolution equation which is completely integrable and thus solved analytically obtaining dynamical solution for three-dimensional fabric drape.
Abstract: The buckling behaviour of engineering materials has been researched extensively since the 1890s and more recently, thin shell theory has generalised the analysis to include complicated boundary conditions. However, the approximations and assumptions which form the basis of engineering models make them inappropriate for textile materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains so that the deformations are highly nonlinear. In this paper, we develop a nonlinear mathematical method. In the final section, the nonlinear differential equations used are generalised into a nonlinear evolution equation which is completely integrable and thus solved analytically obtaining dynamical solution for three‐dimensional fabric drape. These analytical solutions are applicable under all conditions and are not subject to computational difficulties associated with finding numerical solutions for highly nonlinear problems. The use of this analytical approach to fabric mechanics and dynamics provides us with a very powerful tool to formulate and solve many long‐standing problems in fabric and clothing technology.
TL;DR: In this paper, a test method and instrumentation have been developed to facilitate the identification of potential appearance problems and for the development of improved fabric pressing performance, based on the weft crease angle and warp formability.
Abstract: A test method and instrumentation have been developed to facilitate the identification of potential appearance problems and for the development of improved fabric pressing performance. The method determines the fabric pressing performance with a greater degree of certainty than using a steam press. The weft “pressing performance” crease angle, as measured by the test method developed by CSIRO, in cooperation with IWS (Biella Technical Centre) and the Italian industries, combined with warp formability, as measured by SIROFAST, were found to be the two fabric properties most important for the prediction of the acceptability and appearance of a range of high quality men’s suits. It also appears that a good pressing performance can partly compensate for the seam pucker symptoms of low formability.
Journal Article•
TL;DR: In this article, the development of the equipment for investigating operative logical movement groups in garment production is described, as well as the processing of the video recordings, from recording at the workplace, marker separation to marker system chain linking, which are used in the course of logical movement group defining.
Abstract: The development of the equipment for investigating operative logical movement groups in garment production is presented. The characteristics of the equipment and software packages used are described, as well as the processing of the video recordings, from recording at the workplace, marker separation to marker system chain‐linking, which, as a final result, are used in the course of logical movement group defining.
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used ADAMS to simulate the sewing machine mechanisms and found that the influence of length modification of needle bar mechanism elements on sewing needle velocity and acceleration is also presented.
Abstract: Use of programme package ADAMS to simulate the sewing machine mechanisms is presented within this contribution. The simulation of needle bar mechanism was carried out. The influence of velocity changes of the main shaft on velocities and acceleration of sewing needle in the penetration area is described on the basis of simulation results. Achieved data could be used for calculation of needle penetration force. The influence of length modification of needle bar mechanism elements on sewing needle velocity and acceleration is also presented. This analysis could contribute to better understanding of sewing machine activity.
TL;DR: In this article, the authors performed a contrast study on the technologies and contributions of flexible manufacturing systems (FMS) being in use in apparel and metal cutting/removal industries, and they identified significant differences in technologies and operational characteristics of existing FMS in the softgoods apparel industry and in the hardgoods metal working industry.
Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to perform a contrast study on the technologies and contributions of flexible manufacturing systems (FMS) being in use in apparel and metal cutting/removal industries. Some significant differences in the technologies and operational characteristics of existing FMS in the soft‐goods apparel industry and in the hard‐goods metal working industry are identified. Detailed discussions on interesting comparable contributions of FMS at various dimensions such as quality, productivity, flexibility, etc., are also presented. Recommendations for future research are also provided.
TL;DR: In this paper, the influence of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics on cutting process and the behaviours of fabrics during automatic cutting of a fabrics lay into garment pieces is studied, and it is shown that the blade forces and the mechanical properties, such as elongation strength, bending and shear rigidity have significant influences on cutting of fabrics lay.
Abstract: The influence of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics on cutting process and the behaviours of fabrics during automatic cutting of a fabrics lay into garment pieces is studied. It is shown that the blade forces and the mechanical and physical properties of fabrics, such as elongation strength, bending and shear rigidity have significant influences on cutting of fabrics lay. The velocity of vertical and horizontal components of movements of the knife blade, elastic properties of fibres and the air permeability have significant influence on the quality of cutting and pattern pieces, as well.
Journal Article•
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used the knowledge of the stress-strain curve of yarns to determine the parameters of a yarn model with respect to the known stress curve of real yarns.
Abstract: Here parameter determination of a chosen rheological model of a yarn on the basis of the experimental results is shown. The Kelvin‐Voigt linear viscoelastic model of a solid material was chosen. The real yarn was used in the tear experiment. The knowledge of the stress‐strain curve is the measurement for the determination of the rheological parameter. The calculation of the Kelvin‐Voigt’s parameters, with respect to the known stress‐strain curve of the real yarn, is done with an optimisation method. In this numerical procedure the area between the response of the real yarn and the yarn model is minimised. The optimisation results show good coincidence of the real mechanical properties of the real yarn with the Kelvin‐Voigt rheological model. The model of the yarn enables simulation of real processes, which is easier because observation of the real systems are then not necessary, which is easier, more transparent and cheaper.
TL;DR: In this paper, a controlled wear experiment which examined the wrinkle performance of lightweight wool fabrics is described, where six lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics were tailored into trousers and worn by six wearers in controlled ambient environments of 20°C, 40 per cent rh, and 25°c, 75 per cent RH, for two-hour sessions.
Abstract: A controlled wear experiment which examined the wrinkle performance of lightweight wool fabrics is described. Six lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics were tailored into trousers and worn by six wearers in controlled ambient environments of 20°C, 40 per cent rh, and 25°C, 75 per cent rh, for two‐hour sessions. Black and white photographs were taken of the wrinkled garments at specific recovery times. These were assessed for wrinkling by ten observers using a scale that was defined in relation to two reference photographs. Fabrics were shown to have different wrinkle performance at the end of the wear sessions. Wearers contribute a large proportion of the variation seen in the overall assessments of the fabrics. The largest source of variation was due to the different ambient wear conditions during the wear session, highlighting the importance of this factor when considering wrinkling in wear.
Abstract: In the paper the theoretical fundamentals of numerical evaluation of the significant fabric construction parameters (fabric setting, working‐in and fabric weight) are represented, which are the base for the prediction of theoretical fabric parameter values for a particular fabric application area. For fabric samples also the measured values and the comparison of selected construction parameters were obtained. The results confirm a good agreement in fabric setting and fabric weight values but a minor agreement in working‐in values of selected fabric samples. Our research work refers to the fabrics for under‐linen and fabrics for bed linen.