Showing papers in "Ocean Dynamics in 2003"

The Ensemble Kalman Filter: theoretical formulation and practical implementation

Abstract: The purpose of this paper is to provide a comprehensive presentation and interpretation of the Ensemble Kalman Filter (EnKF) and its numerical implementation. The EnKF has a large user group, and numerous publications have discussed applications and theoretical aspects of it. This paper reviews the important results from these studies and also presents new ideas and alternative interpretations which further explain the success of the EnKF. In addition to providing the theoretical framework needed for using the EnKF, there is also a focus on the algorithmic formulation and optimal numerical implementation. A program listing is given for some of the key subroutines. The paper also touches upon specific issues such as the use of nonlinear measurements, in situ profiles of temperature and salinity, and data which are available with high frequency in time. An ensemble based optimal interpolation (EnOI) scheme is presented as a cost-effective approach which may serve as an alternative to the EnKF in some applications. A fairly extensive discussion is devoted to the use of time correlated model errors and the estimation of model bias.

The potential role of spectral properties in detecting thresholds in the Earth system: application to the thermohaline circulation

Abstract: A simple two-box model of the hemispheric thermohaline circulation (THC) is considered. The model parameterizes fluctuations in the freshwater forcing by a stochastic process. The dependence of the power spectral density and the lifetime of quasistationary states of the THC on the distance to the bifurcation point, where the THC collapses, is calculated analytically. It is shown that power spectral properties change as the system is moved closer to the bifurcation point. These changes allow an estimate of the distance to the bifurcation point.

A methodology to estimate renewal time scales in estuaries: the Tagus Estuary case

Abstract: High-resolution hydrodynamic models are a common tool to simulate water dynamics in estuaries. Results from these models are, however, difficult to interpret without the aid of additional parameters to integrate the information. In this paper a methodology to understand the transport patterns in the Tagus Estuary is proposed. It is based on the computation of two renewal time scales: residence time and integrated water fraction. This last parameter is used to build a dependency matrix that gives the integrated influence of each region of the estuary at a selected point. The parameters are computed using a Lagrangian transport model coupled to the hydrodynamic model. Results show that Tagus Estuary has two different types of regions: the central part of the estuary, with low renewal efficiency, and three regions with higher renewal efficiency. Renewal mechanisms are, however, different for each region as shown by the dependency matrix. Comparison of renewal time scales with results from a water-quality model revealed that residence time is not a limiting parameter for primary production in the Tagus Estuary.

Assimilation of ice concentration in a coupled ice–ocean model, using the Ensemble Kalman filter

Abstract: An implementation of the Ensemble Kalman filter (EnKF) with a coupled ice–ocean model is presented. The model system consists of a dynamic–thermodynamic ice model using the elastic-viscous-plastic (EVP) rheology coupled with the HYbrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM). The observed variable is ice concentration from passive microwave sensor data (SSM/I). The assimilation of ice concentration has the desired effect of reducing the difference between observations and model. Comparison of the assimilation experiment with a free-run experiment shows that there are large differences, especially in summer. In winter the differences are relatively small, partly because the atmospheric forcing used to run the model depends upon SSM/I data. The assimilation has the strongest impact close to the ice edge, where it ensures a correct location of the ice edge throughout the simulation. An inspection of the model ensemble statistics reveals that the error estimates of the model are too small in winter, partly a result of too low model ice-concentration variance in the central ice pack. It is found that the ensemble covariance between ice concentration and sea-surface temperature in the same grid cell is of the same sign (negative) throughout the year. The ensemble covariance between ice concentration and salinity is more dependent upon the physical mechanisms involved, with ice transport and freeze/melt giving different signs of the covariances. The ice-transport and ice-melt mechanisms also impact the ice-concentration variance and the covariance between ice concentration and ice thickness. The ensemble statistics show a high degree of complexity, which to some extent merits the use of computationally expensive assimilation methods, such as the Ensemble Kalman filter. The present study focuses on the assimilation of ice concentration, but it is understood that assimilation of other datasets, such as sea-surface temperature, would be beneficial.

On the circulation in the East Frisian Wadden Sea: numerical modeling and data analysis

Abstract: In this paper we use a combination of nu- merical modeling and data analysis to gain a better understanding of the major characteristics of the circu- lation in the East Frisian Wadden Sea. In particular, we concentrate on the asymmetry of the tidal wave and its modulation in the coastal area, which results in a com- plex pattern of responses to the sea-level forcing from the North Sea. The numerical simulations are based on the 3-D primitive equation General Estuarine Transport Model (GETM) with a horizontal resolution of 200 m and terrain-following vertical coordinates. The model is forced at its open boundaries with sea-level data from an operational model for the German Bight (German Hydrographic Office). The validation data for our model simulations include time series of tidal gauge data and surface currents measured at a pile in the back-barrier basin of the Island Langeoog, as well as several ADCP transects in the Accumer Ee tidal inlet. Circulation and turbulence characteristics are inves- tigated for typical situations driven by spring and neap tides, and the analysis is focused on dominating tem- poral and spatial patterns. By investigating the response of five back-barrier basins with rather different mor- phologies to external forcing, an attempt is made to elucidate the dominating physical balances controlling the circulation in the individual sub-basins. It is dem- onstrated that the friction at the seabed tends to slow down the tidal signal in the shallow water. This leads to the establishment of flood dominance in the shallowsea north of the barrier islands. South of the islands, where the water volume of the channels at low tide is smaller than the tidal prism, the asymmetry of the tidal signal is shifted towards ebb dominance, a feature which is par- ticularly pronounced at spring tide. At the northern open boundary, the tidal wave propagating from west to east generates a sea-level dif- ference of � 1 m along the boundary, and thereby trig- gers vigorous alongshore currents. The frictional control in the model is located in the inlets, as well as along the northern boundary. The correlation between velocity and turbulent kinetic energy tends to the establishment of a net southward transport, giving theoretical support to the observed accumulation of sediments on the in- tertidal flats. Weak turbulence along the northern shores of the barrier islands and the small magnitude of the residual currents there promote accumulation of sus- pended matter in these areas, although wave action will generally counteract this effect.

The influence of asymmetries in overlying stratification on near-bed turbulence and sediment suspension in a partially mixed estuary

Abstract: Data collected from the York River estuary demonstrate the importance of asymmetries in stratification to the suspension and transport of fine sediment. Observations collected during two 24-h deployments reveal greater concentrations of total suspended solids during the flood phase of the tide despite nearly symmetric near-bed tidal current magnitude. In both cases, tidally averaged net up-estuary sediment transport near the bed was clearly observed despite the fact that tidally averaged residual near-bed currents were near zero. Tidal straining of the along-channel salinity gradient resulted in a stronger pycnocline lower in the water column during the ebb phase of the tide and appeared to limit sediment suspension. Indirect measurements suggest that the lower, more intense, pycnocline on the ebb acted as a barrier, limiting turbulent length scales and reducing eddy diffusivity well below the pycnocline, even though the lower water column was locally well mixed. In order to more conclusively link changes in stratification to properties of near-bed eddy viscosity and diffusivity, longer duration tripod and mooring data from an additional experiment are examined, that included direct measurement of turbulent velocities. These additional data demonstrate how slight increases in stratification can limit vertical mixing near the bed and impact the structure of the eddy viscosity below the pycnocline. We present evidence that the overlying pycnocline can remotely constrain the vertical turbulent length scale of the underlying flow, limiting sediment resuspension. As a result, the relatively small changes in stratification caused by tidal straining of the pycnocline allow sediment to be resuspended higher in the water column during the flood phase of the tide, resulting in preferential up-estuary transport of sediment.

A non-hydrostatic numerical model for calculating free-surface stratified flows

Abstract: A three-dimensional non-hydrostatic numerical model for simulation of the free-surface stratified flows is presented. The model is a non-hydrostatic extension of free-surface primitive equation model with a general vertical coordinate and horizontal orthogonal curvilinear coordinates. The model equations are integrated with mode-splitting technique and decomposition of pressure and velocity fields on hydrostatic and non-hydrostatic components. The model was tested against laboratory experiments on the steep wave transformation over the longshore bar, solitary wave impact on the vertical wall, the collapse of the mixed region in the thin pycnocline, mixing in the lock-exchange flows and water exchange through the sea strait. The agreement is generally fair.

A numerical system to study the transport properties in the Ria de Aveiro lagoon

Abstract: This work presents results from numerical modelling studies on the hydrodynamics and sediments and passive particles transport properties in Ria de Aveiro, a shallow lagoon located on the Portuguese Northwest Atlantic coast. The hydrodynamic of the lagoon was systematically studied, from both the Eulerian and Lagragian point of view, in order to understand the overall circulation in the lagoon, characterize the dynamics of its different channels and assess the transport of suspended cohesive sediments.

Revising the paradigm of tidal analysis – the uses of non-stationary data

Abstract: Surface elevation and current records contain non-tidal variance, often dismissed as noise. The processes responsible for the non-tidal component may also modulate the tidal signal, altering its strength and frequency structure. Because of their manner of generation and propagation, internal tides are inherently irregular. The non-stationary character of these and other tidal processes provides an integral and useful property of tidal records, because it provides an opportunity to obtain insights into tidal dynamics and the interaction of tidal and non-tidal processes. It is, moreover, productive to use multiple approaches in analyzing coastal and estuarine tidal processes so that both the time-varying and average frequency content are determined. Only by confronting the causes of non-stationary behaviour in this way can some of the remaining challenges in tidal analysis and prediction be overcome, e.g. shelf and estuarine currents, river tides, internal tides, tide-surge interactions and tidally influenced ecological processes. Several examples illustrate the utility of non-stationary tidal analysis methods.

Comparison of longitudinal equilibrium profiles of estuaries in idealized and process-based models

Abstract: The process-based morphodynamic model Delft3D-MOR and the idealized model of schuttelaars and De Swart (2000) are compared with each other. The differences between the two models in their mathematical-physical formulation as well as the boundary conditions are identified. Their effect on producing cross-sectionally averaged morphological equilibria of tidal inlets with arbitrary length and forced at the seaward boundary by a prescribed M 2 and M 4 sea- surface elevation is studied and an inventory is made of all relevant differences. The physical formulations in the source code of Delft3D-MOR are modified in various steps to resemble the formulations in the idealized model. The effect of each of the differences between the idealized and process-based model are studied by comparing the results of the idealized model to those of the adapted process-based model. The results of the idealized model can be qualitatively reproduced by the process-based model as long as the same morphological boundary condition is applied at the open sea end. This means that the simplifications concerning the mathematical formulation of the physical processes in the idealized model can be justified. Furthermore, it can be inferred that the morphological boundary condition at the open sea end is an essential element in controlling the behaviour of morphodynamic models for tidal inlets and estuaries.

First- and higher-order dynamical controls on water exchanges between tidal basins and the open ocean. A case study for the East Frisian Wadden Sea

Abstract: Observational data, high-resolution numerical modelling results and a simple analytical theory are combined in this paper to demonstrate the dependence of the volume transports through tidal inlets on topographical or morphological parameters of a Wadden Sea system. The area of interest covers the East Frisian Wadden Sea and consists of seven weakly connected tidal basins. The observations include time series of tidal gauge data and surface currents measured at a pile station in the backbarrier basin of the island Langeoog, as well as several ADCP transects in the Accumer Ee tidal inlet. The numerical simulations are based on the 3-D primitive equation General Estuarine Transport Model (GETM) with a horizontal resolution of 200 m and terrain following vertical coordinates. The model is forced at its open boundaries with sea-level data from an operational model for the German Bight (German Hydrographic Office). The simple theoretical concepts presented illustrate the effect of topography (hypsometry) in the tidal basins on the temporal variability of the exchange of water. This topographic control is effectuated through the bottom slope in the areas prone to drying and flooding. For our study area it takes about twice as long from slack water to maximum flood current than from slack water to maximum ebb current. The underlying physics of this signal modulation from a more or less harmonic forcing at the open-sea boundary and the quantification of the contributing physical processes are the major results of this paper. Estimates based simply on volume conservation are consistent with observations and results from numerical modelling, but they do not completely capture the actual non-linear tidal response. Our analysis shows that at least during part of the tidal cycle characteristic topographic parameters of the inlet/bay system have a major impact on the rate of exchange of waters between the Wadden Sea and the open ocean. This impact is especially strong during the transition between flood and ebb conditions. The possible morphodynamic responses are also addressed focusing on some common (“universal”) topographic features in seven tidal basins.

Factors affecting longitudinal dispersion in estuaries of different scale

Abstract: Traditionally, the overall diluting capacity of an estuary is characterized using a coefficient of longitudinal dispersion, K xe , which is given by the ratio of the dispersive flux of a dissolved substance to its tidally averaged longitudinal gradient. A steady-state model, which assumes a balance between the dispersive and non-dispersive fluxes and an exponential increase in estuary cross-sectional area towards the sea, has been used to derive expressions for the axial salinity distribution and the dispersive flux of salt. The model was set up assuming either a constant dispersion coefficient along the estuary or one that increased with distance towards the sea. By comparing salinity predictions with data from five UK estuaries, estimates were made of the maximum dispersive salt flux and the corresponding maximum salinity gradient for each system. The results indicated that there was an approximately linear relation between the fluxes and gradients, and the slope of a line plotted through the origin provided an estimate of a common K xe for all five estuaries. The magnitude of K xe was found to be about 90 m2 s−1 with a standard deviation of approximately ±32 m2 s−1. It is concluded that a representative value of 100 m2 s−1 for K xe is a reasonable first choice when setting up a cross-sectionally averaged estuary model. The results also showed that larger systems, such as the Thames, had lower salinity gradients and lower dispersive salt fluxes, whilst smaller estuaries displayed the opposite characteristics. The model was used to predict the variation in the non-advective flux of salt along an estuary. The distribution was found to be similar to the corresponding flux distribution estimated from observations at the seaward end of the Tees estuary, despite appreciable spatial variations in the individual flux components. Allowing for a small decrease in freshwater flow, the model indicated that there was a decrease in the maximum dispersive flux between neap and spring tides. It is argued that such a reduction in flux can result in a seaward shift in the salinity distribution to a region of greater cross-section, where the freshwater transport per unit area again balances the reduced upstream dispersive flux, as found in the neap to spring response in the Tees estuary.

Development and sensitivity analysis of a model for assessing stratification and safety of Lake Nyos during artificial degassing

Abstract: To prevent the recurrence of a disastrous eruption of carbon dioxide (CO2) from Lake Nyos, a degassing plan has been set up for the lake. Since there are concerns that the degassing of the lake may reduce the stability of the density stratification, there is an urgent need for a simulation tool to predict the evolution of the lake stratification in different scenarios. This paper describes the development of a numerical model to predict the CO2 and dissolved solids concentrations, and the temperature structure as well as the stability of the water column of Lake Nyos. The model is tested with profiles of CO2 concentrations and temperature taken in the years 1986 to 1996. It reproduces well the general mixing patterns observed in the lake. However, the intensity of the mixing tends to be overestimated in the epilimnion and underestimated in the monimolimnion. The overestimation of the mixing depth in the epilimnion is caused either by the parameterization of the k-epsilon model, or by the uncertainty in the calculation of the surface heat fluxes. The simulated mixing depth is highly sensitive to the surface heat fluxes, and errors in the mixing depth propagate from one year to the following. A precise simulation of the mixolimnion deepening therefore requires high accuracy in the meteorological forcing and the parameterization of the heat fluxes. Neither the meteorological data nor the formulae for the calculation of the heat fluxes are available with the necessary precision. Consequently, it will be indispensable to consider different forcing scenarios in the safety analysis in order to obtain robust boundary conditions for safe degassing. The input of temperature and CO2 to the lake bottom can be adequately simulated for the years 1986 to 1996 with a constant sublacustrine source of 18 l s−1 with a CO2 concentration of 0.395 mol l−1 and a temperature of 26 °C. The results of this study indicate that the model needs to be calibrated with more detailed field data before using it for its final purpose: the prediction of the stability and the safety of Lake Nyos during the degassing process.

Water and sediment movement around a coastal headland: Portland Bill, southern UK

Abstract: Numerical simulations of tidal flow and sand transport around a coastal headland (Portland Bill, southern UK) were undertaken to investigate patterns of sand transport during the development of tidally induced transient eddies. Results obtained from a 2-D finite-element hydrodynamic model (TELEMAC-2D) were combined with a sediment transport model (SEDTRANS), to simulate the sand transport processes around the headland. Simulation of the tidal flow around Portland Bill has shown the formation and evolution of tidally induced transient eddies, around the headland. During the evolution of these transient eddies, no current-induced bedload (transport) eddy is formed for either side of the headland. Net bedload sand transport direction, around a coastal headland, is the result of instantaneous gradients in bedload transport rates, during flood and ebb flows, rather than the average (residual) flow. Thus, the use of residual (water) circulation to describe patterns of sediment movement as bedload is not an appropriatedapproach. In the case study presented here, the distinct characteristics of the coastal and seabed morphology around the Isle of Portland (i.e. headland shape and the bathymetry) indicate that these parameters can be influencing tidal (flow) and sediment dispersion around the headland. Such an interpretation has broader implications and applications to headland-associated sandbanks elsewhere.

Migrating sand waves

Abstract: A simple mathematical model is described, which reproduces the major features of sand waves' appearance and growth and in particular predicts their migration speed. The model is based on the linear stability analysis of the flat configuration of the sea bottom subject to tidal currents. Attention is focused on the prediction of the complex growth rate Γ that bottom perturbations undergo because of both oscillatory fluid motions and residual currents. While the real part Γ r of Γ controls the amplification or decay of the amplitude of the bedforms, the imaginary part Γ i is related to their migration speed. Previous works on the migration of the sand waves (Nemeth et␣al. 2002) consider a forcing tide made up by the M2 constituent (oscillatory period equal to 12 h) plus the residual current Z0 and predict always a downcurrent migration of the bedforms. However, field cases exist of upcurrent-migrating sand waves (downcurrent/upcurrent-migrating sand waves mean bedforms moving in the direction of the steady residual tidal current or in the opposite direction, respectively). The inclusion of a tide constituent characterized by a period of 6 h (M4) is the main novelty of the present work, which allows for the prediction of the migration of sand waves against the residual current Z0. Indeed, the M4 tide constituent, as does also the residual current Z0, breaks the symmetry of the problem forced only by the M2 tide constituent, and induces sand-wave migration. The model proposed by Besio et␣al. (2003a) forms the basis for the present analysis. Previous works on the subject (Gerkema 2000; Hulscher 1996a,b; Komarova and Hulscher 2000) are thus improved by using a new solution procedure (Besio et␣al. 2003a) which allows for a more accurate evaluation of the growth rate for arbitrary values of the parameter r, which is the ratio between the horizontal tidal excursion and the perturbation wavelength.

Extracting flow structures from tracer data

Abstract: A method of visualizing structures in closed chaotic flows out of homogenous particle distributions is presented in the example of models of a meandering jet. To this end, the system will be leaked or opened up by defining a region of the flow, so that a particle is considered to be escaped if it leaves this region. By applying this method to an ensemble of nonescaped tracers, we are able to characterize mixing processes by visualizing the converging and stretching filamentations (stable and unstable manifolds) in the flow without using additional mathematical tools. The possibility of applying the algorithm to analyze buoy data, and a comparison with the finite time manifolds are discussed.

Meridional Turner angles and density compensation in the upper ocean

Abstract: The World Ocean Atlas 1998 is used to determine the global field of the meridional density ratio R ρ hy =αΔT/βΔS, where temperature and salinity changes ΔT and ΔS are evaluated along meridians, in and below the mixed layer. The focus of the analysis is the identification of regions where the R ρ hy field matches the values R ρ=2 sometimes suggested as the commonly perceived state of the ocean and R ρ=1, the condition of density compensation. Results are presented through fields of the meridional Turner angle Tu hy =arctan(R hy ρ) and through histograms of Tu hy for the Pacific, Atlantic and Indian Oceans at the ocean surface and at 300 m depth. At the 300-m depth level, which in the subtropics is representative of conditions in the permanent thermocline, the most frequently encountered values of the meridional density ratio are R ρ hy =3.2 in the North and South Pacific, R ρ hy =2.0 in the South Atlantic and Indian and R ρ hy =1.6 in the North Atlantic Ocean. Conditions in the mixed layer are more variable and show seasonal differences, but R ρ hy =2.0 occurs prominently in all ocean regions during winter and in all regions but the Atlantic during summer. Summer values for the Atlantic Ocean are R ρ hy =3.2 in the Northern Hemisphere and R ρ hy =2.4 in the Southern Hemisphere. Detailed analysis of R ρ hy across the Subtropical Front (STF) confirms the most frequently observed values but shows zonal variation along the front in some oceans. Nearly complete density compensation (R ρ hy =1) in the mixed layer is encountered in the STF of the eastern North Pacific, the eastern South Pacific and the eastern Indian Ocean. The eastern Indian Ocean south of Australia is also the only region where complete density compensation in the STF occurs below the mixed layer.

Siltation by sediment-induced density currents

Abstract: This paper describes the results of numerical experiments with a three-dimensional hydrodynamic and mud transport model in which sediment–fluid interaction is taken into account through the effects of hindered settling, buoyancy destruction in the turbulence k–ɛ model and sediment-induced barocline pressure gradients in the momentum equations. The model was applied to a schematic case representing a coastal area with a tidal river, navigation channel and harbour basin, and a real-world case, viz. Rotterdam harbour area in The Netherlands. The results show that the sediment transport into the harbour area, and subsequent siltation rates, increase by a factor 3 to 5 due to the sediment–fluid interaction. It is shown that the larger contribution stems from an increase in vertical gradients in suspended sediment.

Spectral reflectance measurements of estuarine waters

Abstract: Shapes and variations of reflectance spectra in estuarine water were investigated for the purpose of monitoring chlorophyll in situ by optical means. A survey undertaken in an estuarine environment, using reflectance measurements between 400 and 850 nm with a full-width half maximum (FWHM) of about 2 nm, revealed that the first derivative in the neighbourhood of the chlorophyll absorption band shows a defined spectral region which can be used to estimate chlorophyll concentrations. Correlation between chlorophyll and the first derivative was found to be low, but a good relationship exists between the ratio of the reflectance R680/R670 and chlorophyll concentrations. Based on dissolved organic carbon measurements, it is assumed that chromophoric dissolved organic compounds mask the absorption band of chlorophyll in the blue part of the spectrum, resulting in a low correlation coefficient in that spectral range. Therefore, the use of the red bands is an alternative for measuring photosynthetic pigments in coastal water at longer wavelengths. Results presented here demonstrate that the spectral locations of bands in the visible are not adequate and that hyperspectral data are required for positioning the very narrow bands for measuring chlorophyll at longer wavelengths.

Intertidal mudflat properties, currents and sediment erosion in the partially mixed Tamar Estuary, UK

Abstract: Results are presented from a 1-year campaign to measure the seasonal variability of some key physical and biological properties of intertidal mudflats over a section of the central Tamar Estuary and to relate these to the physical environment. Seasonal variations in “physical” mudflat properties, such as grain size, density and moisture content were relatively small. With the exception of the particulate organic carbon content in the upper 0.002 m of surface sediment, biological variations were large. Redox potential exhibited considerable seasonal variation and showed that the sediments were less reduced in winter and more reduced in summer. Chlorophyll a and extracellular polymeric substances (EPS) within the surface 0.002 m of sediment (due to the presence of benthic diatoms) were strongly correlated and exhibited a pronounced seasonal pattern, with smallest values during winter and greatest values during late summer and early autumn. EPS had a dominating influence on sediment erosion, as determined from annular flume measurements. Velocity measurements and velocity modelling indicated that during the flood, and for much of the time during benthic diatom “bloom” conditions of high chlorophyll a and EPS sediment contents, the stresses exerted by tidal currents were too small to cause significant suspension of sediments over much of the middle and upper mudflats. Suspended fine sediment in the turbidity maximum zone was transported down-estuary and deposited in the main channel at low-water (LW) slack. Some of this sediment, in the form of relatively large aggregates, was subsequently transported onto the mudflats during the flooding tide, where slack currents and fast settling velocities may have enhanced sediment deposition there.

Non-linear response of shoreface-connected sand ridges to interventions

Abstract: A non-linear morphodynamic model of a microtidal coastal shelf is used to study the response of shoreface-connected sand ridges and the net sand balance of the shelf to large-scale interventions. The model describes the interaction between storm-driven currents and the erodible bottom. The transport of sediment comprises both bedload and suspended load contributions and is due to the joint action of waves (stirring of sediment from the bed) and net currents (causing transport). Three basic types of interventions are studied: extracting sand from ridges, nourishing sand at the shelf and constructing navigation channels. The model results indicate that for all interventions studied a relatively fast local recovery (time scale of decades to centuries) of the disturbed bathymetry to its original pattern takes place. Readjustment of the global system to its original equilibrium state (the saturation process) occurs on a longer time scale (several centuries). During the adjustment stage, significant net sand exchanges between inner shelf and adjacent outer shelf and near-shore zone occur. The results further suggest that extraction of sand from the shelf and dredging of navigation channels have negative implications for the stability of the beach (its sand volume decreases).

Quantifying turbulent mixing and oxygen fluxes in a Mediterranean-type, microtidal estuary

Abstract: Experiments were carried out on an intermittent estuary during its closed (summer) and open (winter) states to identify the physical processes responsible for vertical mixing across the halocline, and to quantify vertical fluxes of oxygen and salt between water layers. During the blocked phase a two-layer structure was observed, with a brackish surface layer overlying old seawater. Within a deep basin the wind-driven turbulent mixing was consistent with the measured surface-layer turbulent dissipation, but the dissipation in the bottom layer appeared to be driven by internal seiching. In the shallow regions of the estuary vertical fluxes of dissolved oxygen were indicative of oxygen demand by respiration and remineralization of organic material in bottom water and sediments. During the estuary's open phase a three-layer structure was observed, having a fresh, river-derived surface layer, a middle layer of new seawater, and a bottom layer of old seawater. In the shallower regions surface-layer turbulent diffusion was consistent with the strong, gusty winds experienced at the time. The dissolved oxygen of the incoming seawater decreased to very low values by the time it reached the upstream deep basin as a result of the low cross-pycnocline oxygen flux being unable to compensate for the oxygen utilization. At least 50 % of the cross-pycnocline salt fluxes in the shallow reaches of the open estuary are suggested to be driven by Holmboe instabilities.

Antarctic circumpolar modes in a coupled ocean-atmosphere model

Abstract: Eastward-propagating patterns in anomalous potential temperature and salinity of the Southern Ocean are analyzed in the output of a 1000-year simulation of the global coupled atmosphere–ocean GCM ECHO-G. Such features can be associated with the so-called Antarctic Circumpolar Wave (ACW). It is found that time–longitude diagrams that have traditionally been used to aid the visualization of the ACW are strongly influenced by the width of the bandpass time filtering. This is due to the masking of considerable low-frequency variability that occurs over a broad range of time scales. Frequency–wavenumber analysis of the ACW shows that the eastward-propagating waves do have preferred spectral peaks, but that both the period and wavenumber change erratically when comparing different centuries throughout the simulation. The variability of the ACW on a variety of time scales from interannual to centennial suggests that the waiting time for a sufficient observational record to determine the time scale of variability of the real world ACW (and the associated decadal time scale predictability of climate for southern landmasses) will be a very long one.

Regional and interannual variability of ecosystem dynamics in the Southern Ocean

Abstract: To investigate regional and interannual variability of the ecosystem in the Southern Ocean, a coupled circumpolar ice–ocean–plankton model has been developed. The ice–ocean component (known as BRIOS-2) is based on a modified version of the s-coordinate primitive equation model (SPEM) coupled to a dynamic–thermodynamic sea-ice model. The biological model (BIMAP) comprises two biogeochemical cycles – silica and nitrogen – and a prognostic iron compartment to include possible effects of micronutrient limitation. Simulations with the coupled ice–ocean–plankton model indicate that the physical–biological interaction is not limited to the effect of a varying surface mixed-layer depth. In the Pacific sector, large anomalies in winter mixed-layer depth cause an increased iron supply and enhance primary production and plankton biomass in the following summer, whereas in the Atlantic sector variability in primary production is caused mainly by fluctuations of oceanic upwelling. Thus, the Antarctic Circumpolar Wave (ACW) induces regional oscillations of phytoplankton biomass in both sectors, but not a propagating signal. Furthermore, interannual variability in plankton biomass and primary production is strong in the Coastal and Continental Shelf Zone and the Seasonal Ice Zone around the Antarctic continent. Interannual variability induced by the ACW has large effects on the regional scale, but the associated variability in biogenic carbon fluxes is small compared to the long-term carbon sequestration of the Southern Ocean.

Enhanced red fluorescence emission in the oxygen minimum zone of the Arabian Sea

Abstract: Depth profiles of fluorescence at several excitation and emission wavelengths were measured along with CTD data during the cruise So119 of RV Sonne in the Arabian Sea from 12 May to 10 June 1997. In addition to chlorophyll fluorescence from phytoplankton in the near-surface layer, the profiles in the oxygen minimum region well below the euphotic zone show enhanced red fluorescence. Red fluorescence intensity is inversely related to the oxygen concentration in intermediate and deep waters. A relationship to characteristic water masses of the region cannot be found in the data, and this holds also with chemical data such as DOC. Absorbance spectra of water samples taken in the oxygen minimum zone show an absorption band at 420 nm wavelength with about 50 nm bandwidth, much weaker than gelbstoff absorbance in the same wavelength range. The absorption band remains stable after sample filtration with 0.45 μm glass fibre filters. Hence, the size of the absorbing matter is in the range of dissolved molecules or particles much smaller than 1 μm. Fluorescence spectra of unfiltered samples with 420 nm excitation show a weak emission band at 600 nm and a more pronounced one at 660 nm wavelength. The trailing edge of the 660 nm band falls into the range of chlorophyll emission, thus giving rise to the observed depth profiles of red fluorescence in the oxygen minimum zone. Red fluorescence measured on samples remain stable during a few hours after sampling even in the presence of oxygen. It is not detectable after several weeks of sample storage in the dark and cannot be reproduced even after depletion of dissolved oxygen.

Lateral tidal mixing in the Antarctic marginal seas

Abstract: Tidal mixing plays an important role in the modification of dense water masses around the Antarctic continent. In addition to the vertical (diapycnal) mixing in the near-bottom layers, lateral mixing can also be of relevance in some areas. A numerical tide simulation shows that lateral tidal mixing is not uniformly distributed along the shelf break. In particular, strong mixing occurs all along the Ross Sea and Southern Weddell Sea shelf breaks, while other regions (e.g., the western Weddell Sea) are relatively quiet. The latter regions correspond surprisingly well to areas where indications for cross-shelf exchange of dense water masses have been found. The results suggest that lateral tidal mixing may account for the relatively small contribution of Ross Sea dense water masses to Antarctic Bottom Water.

Fluorophores in the Arabian Sea and their relationship to hydrographic conditions

Abstract: Water mass distributions, upwelling and filament formation are of complex significance for biological and chemical processes. Temperature and salinity are routinely used to characterize these hydrographic conditions. In situ profiles and sample analyses from the cruise So119 of RV Sonne in May 1997 into the Arabian Sea indicate that optical parameters such as the fluorescence of phytoplankton pigments, gelbstoff and proteins reflect hydrographic processes as well, and are useful to describe and explain biochemical processes. The dependence of bio-optical parameters to DOC and chlorophyll a concentrations is examined. While the relation between extracted chlorophyll and chlorophyll fluorescence is quite reasonable, DOC and gelbstoff fluorescence do not show a functional dependency. This is mainly due to sunlight-induced degradation of fluorophores in the surface layer. Enhanced gelbstoff signals in intermediate and deep waters are related to Persian Gulf Water. The optical data reveal a relation between the depth of the chlorophyll maximum, the depth of 1% surface light and the geographical latitude. In the context of remote sensing of phytoplankton biomass from ocean colour images, the depth of the chlorophyll maximum is a crucial parameter. Thus, the revealed dependency on latitude is useful for the evaluation of primary production with satellite remote sensing.

A consistent derivation of the wave-energy equation from basic hydrodynamic principles

Abstract: Based on a decomposition of the velocity into mean flow, turbulent and wave components, momentum and hereafter a wave-energy equation is derived. It contains a turbulent energy dissipation term which is closed by applying a wave-related mixing length model and linear wave theory solutions. This closure produces a non-linear turbulent wave-energy dissipation including the wave energy in a 5/2 power law. The theory is able to predict correctly the shape of deep-water wave spectra according to Phillips' similarity law.

A theoretical investigation of bed-form shapes

Abstract: The deformation of movable boundaries under the action of an applied turbulent shear stress is well known. The resulting bed forms often are highly organized and nearly two-dimensional, which makes them an intriguing focus of study considering that they are generated in both steady and oscillatory turbulent flows. Many past studies share a common approach in which an infinitesimal perturbation is prescribed and the resulting growth or decay patterns are examined. In this approach, the bed forms are usually sinusoidal and the perturbation analysis does not provide a theoretical prediction of equilibrium bed-form geometry. An alternative approach is suggested here in which the forcing terms (pressure and stress) are prescribed parametrically and the governing equations are solved for the flow velocity and the associated boundary deformation. Using a multilayered approach, in which the bottom boundary layer is divided into a discrete, yet, arbitrary number of finite layers, analytical solutions for the horizontal current and bed profile are derived. The derivations identify two nondimensional parameters, p 0/u 0 2 and Δτ0/k h 0 u 0 2, which modulate the amplitude of the velocity fluctuations and boundary deformation. For the case of combined pressure and stress divergence anomalies, the magnitude of the front face and lee slopes exhibit an asymmetry that is consistent with observed bed forms in steady two-dimensional flows.

On the three-dimensional oceanic density distribution in a millennium integration with an AO-GCM

Abstract: The three-dimensional time-mean density distribution in the ocean is determined not only by the time-mean fluxes of heat and freshwater at the sea surface, but also by time-mean vertical currents and time-mean density fluxes due to oceanic transients excited by fluctuating fluxes at the sea surface. The effects of these various processes on the global density fields are assessed using a balance equation of the variance of spatial density anomalies and a millennium integration with an atmosphere–ocean general circulation model. It is found that spatial density anomalies are generated by the time-mean heat fluxes at the sea surface and destroyed by the time-mean surface freshwater flux, by sinking of dense water and rising of less dense water, and finally by density fluxes associated with transients. The last two processes take place essentially in the oceanic interior. Since density fluxes of transient eddies act to reduce the existing density differences between the Atlantic/Southern Oceans and the other oceans, their presence could affect the global density balance, and from that the thermohaline circulation and the stability of this circulation.