Journal ArticleDOI
An experimental study of large waves in intermediate and shallow water depths. Part I: Wave height and crest height statistics
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In this article, a series of laboratory observations undertaken in a purpose-built wave flume was used to simulate a range of realistic ocean spectra evolving over a number of mild bed slopes (m ).About:
This article is published in Coastal Engineering.The article was published on 2013-03-01. It has received 37 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Wave height & Significant wave height.read more
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Journal ArticleDOI
Scaling depth-induced wave-breaking in two-dimensional spectral wave models
TL;DR: In this paper, a joint scaling dependent on both local bottom slope and normalized wave number is presented and shown to resolve the issue of under-prediction of significant wave heights over horizontal bathymetries.
Journal ArticleDOI
Statistics of extreme waves in coastal waters: large scale experiments and advanced numerical simulations
TL;DR: In this article, the formation of extreme waves is mainly related to the second-order effect, which is also responsible for the generation of long waves, and the higher probability of occurrence of large waves was confirmed by the statistical distributions built from measured free surface elevation time series as well as by the local maximum values of skewness and kurtosis around the end of the slope.
Journal ArticleDOI
Parameterization of nonlinear shallow water waves over sloping bottoms
TL;DR: In this article, bottom slope effects on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves, which are generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are carried out in a physical wave flume with three slopes.
Journal ArticleDOI
Assessment of wave height distributions using an extensive field database
TL;DR: In this paper, the short-term statistical distribution of wave heights in finite water depths is investigated using wave radar data from 10 different locations in the North Sea and cover water depths between 7.7 m and 45 m. In total, the field database includes more than 200 million waves, making it the largest of its kind in this water depth regime.
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Influence of varying bathymetry in rogue wave occurrence within unidirectional and directional sea-states
Guillaume Ducrozet,Maïté Gouin +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of the directionality of the sea state on the wave statistics was investigated using a highly nonlinear potential flow solver based on the High-Order Spectral method.
References
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Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP)
Klaus Hasselmann,Tim P. Barnett,E. Bouws,H. Carlson,D.E. Cartwright,K. Enke,J. A. Ewing,H. Gienapp,Dieter E. Hasselmann,P. Kruseman,A. Meerburg,Peter Müller,D.J. Olbers,K. Richter,W. Sell,H. Walden +15 more
TL;DR: In this article, wave spectra were measured along a profile extending 160 kilometers into the North Sea westward from Sylt for a period of two weeks in 1968 and 1969, with particular emphasis on wave growth under stationary offshore wind conditions and the attenuation of swell in water of finite depth.
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Wave Crest Distributions: Observations and Second-Order Theory
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of wave steepness, water depth, and directional spreading on wave crest height is considered and a Lagrangian measurement of wave crests is performed.
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On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors show that the Rayleigh distribution overpredicts the heights of higher waves in a record, and that the empirical fitting of the data to a Weibull distribution is sufficient for the prediction that the highest wave in 1000 is only 0.907 times the height predicted by Rayleigh.