Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2013"

TL;DR: In this article, the authors introduce OpenFOAM® as a tool to consider for coastal engineering applications as it solves 3D domains and considers two-phase flow, and demonstrate that active wave absorption is found to enhance stability by decreasing the energy of the system and correcting the increasing water level on long simulations.

TL;DR: In this paper, the OpenFOAM® newly developed wave generation and active absorption boundary condition presented in the companion paper (Higuera et al., submitted for publication) is validated.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors assume a hydrostatic pressure distribution at the front of a breaking wave, which ensures that the wave front develops a vertical face and conserves mass and momentum.

TL;DR: In this article, a 1-D behavior-oriented shoreline prediction model is proposed, where the decay rate of the weighting function is a model free parameter determined by calibration against measured data, which physically reflects the degree of observed memory of the system.

TL;DR: In this article, low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using the numerical model XBeach and water level measurements (tidal and wave setup) obtained during a field study at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors analyzed the spectral energy dissipation of random waves due to salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) using field data collected during a tropical storm.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors compare probabilities of extreme still water levels estimated using the main direct methods (i.e., the block maxima method and the peaks over threshold method) considering a wide range of strategies to create extreme value dataset and a range of different model setups.

TL;DR: In this article, a laboratory benchmark test for tsunami inundation through an urban waterfront including free surface elevation, velocity, and specific momentum flux is presented and compared with a numerical model (COULWAVE).

TL;DR: In this paper, an integrated model (PORO-WSSI II) for wave-seabed-structure interactions is developed by combining (i) the Volume-Averaged Reynolds-AVERaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations for wave motions in a fluid domain and the porous media flows in porous structures, and (ii) the dynamic Biot's equations for a porous elastic seabed.

TL;DR: In this paper, the dependencies between storm parameters such as wave height, wave period, storm duration, water level and storm inter-arrival time (or calm period) were investigated in a case study on the east coast of South Africa using Kendall's tau correlation coefficient as a dependency metric.

TL;DR: In this article, a non-hydrostatic RANS model based on NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012) is developed to study turbulent mixing, surface wave attenuation and nearshore circulation induced by vegetation.

TL;DR: In this article, the IH-2VOF model is extended to solve the Reynolds Average Navier-Stokes equations including the presence of a vegetation field by means of a drag force.

TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of Posidonia oceanica meadows on wave height damping and on the wave induced velocities were evaluated in the large wave flume of CIEM in Barcelona.

TL;DR: In this article, a global framework is presented to downscale wave reanalysis to coastal areas, taking into account the correction of open sea significant wave height (directional calibration) and drastically reducing the CPU time effort.

TL;DR: In this article, a statistical-process-based approach (SPA) is presented for modelling medium-term (annual to decadal) cross-shore beach profile change and erosion.

TL;DR: In this article, a semi-unsteady, half wave-cycle concept is proposed for cross-shore sand transport under wave-dominated conditions, with bed shear stress as the main forcing parameter.

TL;DR: In this article, the relative performance of three storm erosion models with varying levels of complexity when embedded within Callaghan et al.'s (2008a) probabilistic framework for estimating storm erosion is evaluated.

TL;DR: In this article, a wave generation technique using high capacity pipe pumps under some control and a loopfeedback control is meticulously developed and discussed, and the wave generation facility is successfully tested for single sinusoidal leading depression waves as well as for prolonged solitary and leading depression N-waves of varying duration.

TL;DR: In this paper, the predictive skill of three of the most commonly used bulk LST formulas (CERC, Kamphuis and Bayram) is rigorously evaluated using the most extensive LST data set presently available.

TL;DR: In this paper, a mesh free particle hydrodynamics in porous media (ISPHP) method is introduced, which is capable of efficiently tracking the large deformation of free surfaces in a Lagrangian coordinate system.

TL;DR: In this paper, an input-reduction framework for wave-dominated coastal settings is introduced, which comprises four steps, viz. (1) the selection of the duration of the original (full) time series of wave forcing, (2) selection of representative wave conditions, (3) the sequencing of these conditions, and (4) the time span after which the sequence is repeated.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors discuss the monitoring programs required to calibrate and hindcast shoreline change from 1 to 10 years at two distinct beach types: a storm-dominated site and the second exhibiting a large seasonal variability.

TL;DR: In this article, the use of devices of the Wave Activated Body type for coastal protection based on 3D laboratory results is discussed. But this work is limited to a single device in 1:30 scale and on three devices at 1:60 scale in the deepwater wave tank at Aalborg University.

TL;DR: In this article, a numerical model coupling the horizontal component of the incompressible Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations with two-equation k − ω turbulence closure is presented and used to simulate a variety of turbulent wave boundary layer processes.

TL;DR: In this paper, the interaction between a non-breaking solitary wave and a submerged permeable breakwater was studied experimentally and numerically using particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique.

TL;DR: In this article, the coupled hydro-morphodynamic model XBeach is used at two sites along the Emilia-Romagna coastline in northern Italy to predict coastal inundation risk in the presence of coastal structures and temporary artificial dunes.

TL;DR: A semi-implicit shallow water and Boussinesq model has been developed to account for random wave breaking, impact and overtopping of steep sea walls including recurves.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors studied the interactions of water waves with submerged floating breakwaters moored by inclined tension legs, using a numerical wave tank model proposed by Lee and Mizutani (2009) and based on the Navier-Stokes solver.

TL;DR: In this paper, the results of a numerical and experimental investigation of flow and scour around a half-buried sphere exposed to a steady current were presented, where the results showed that the scour depth increases and time scale decreases when the effect of externally-generated turbulence is incorporated in the calculations.

TL;DR: In this article, a new analytical solution for wave reflection and transmission by a surface-piercing porous breakwater is given, which needs no complex dispersion relations (complex wave numbers) for wave motion through porous media.