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Finite-amplitude edge waves
T R Akylas,J Mathew +1 more
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The article was published on 1990-01-01 and is currently open access. It has received 28 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Love wave & Longitudinal wave.read more
Citations
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Patterns in the sand: From forcing templates to self-organization
Giovanni Coco,A. Brad Murray +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the authors illustrate the sweeping shift from template explanations to self-organization by discussing four nearshore patterns: beach cusps, surfzone crescentic sandbars, inner-shelf sorted bedforms, and large-scale cuspate shorelines.
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Nonlinear evolution of shear instabilities of the longshore current: A comparison of observations and computations
TL;DR: In this article, the authors consider the generation of nearshore currents due to obliquely incident breaking waves, damping effects due to bottom friction, and diffusion effects caused by lateral momentum mixing caused by turbulence and depth-varying current velocities.
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Infragravity waves in the deep ocean
TL;DR: In this article, a model based on the average energy in the short (wind driven and swell) wave band along the North Atlantic coast was constructed to predict the long wave band at a site in the Atlantic.
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Observations of surf beat forcing and dissipation
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used a simple energy balance equation and estimates of the cross-shore energy flux carried by progressive surf beat, to calculate the rate of net surf beat forcing (or dissipation) on a beach near Duck, North Carolina.
References
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Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to `surf-beats'
TL;DR: In this article, the second-order currents and changes in mean surface level which are caused by gravity waves of non-uniform amplitude are investigated, and the effects are interpreted in terms of the radiation stresses in the waves.
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Edge waves and beach cusps
Robert T. Guza,Douglas L. Inman +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the spacings of some cusps formed under reflective wave conditions both in the laboratory and in certain selected natural situations are shown to be consistent with models hypothesizing formation by either (1) subharmonic edge waves (period twice that of the incident waves) of zero mode number or (2) synchronous edge waves of low mode.
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Edge Waves on a Sloping Beach
TL;DR: The inviscid theory predicts that at a discrete frequency the resonance is confined to the neighbourhood of the beach (inviscid edge wave), while at a cutoff frequency resonance extends a long way down the canal as discussed by the authors.
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Rip currents: 2. Laboratory and field observations
TL;DR: In this paper, the nearshore circulation of water on a plane beach exposed to a uniform wave train, normally incident on the beach, was investigated experimentally in the laboratory and it was found that the interaction between these edge waves and the incident waves gave rise to steady flow patterns.