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Journal ArticleDOI

The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents

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TLDR
In this article, it was shown that the wave amplitude is also affected by the horizontal advection of wave energy from the sides of a non-uniform current, and the change in wave amplitude was shown to be such as would be found by adding the radiation stress term.
Abstract
The common assumption that the energy of waves on a non-uniform current U is propagated with a velocity (U + c) where cg is the group-velocity, and that no further interaction takes place, is shown in this paper to be incorrect. In fact the current does additional work on the waves at a rate γijSij where γij is the symmetric rate-of-strain tensor associated with the current, and Sij is the radiation stress tensor introduced earlier (Longuet-Higgins & Stewart 1960).In the present paper we first obtain an asymptotic solution for the combined velocity potential in the simple case (1) when the non-uniform current U is in the direction of wave propagation and the horizontal variation of U is compensated by a vertical upwelling from below. The change in wave amplitude is shown to be such as would be found by inclusion of the radiation stress term.In a second example (2) the current on the x-axis is assumed to be as in (1), but the horizontal variation in U is compensated by a small horizontal inflow from the sides. It is found that in that case the wave amplitude is also affected by the horizontal advection of wave energy from the sides.From cases (1) and (2) the general law of interaction between short waves and non-uniform currents is inferred. This is then applied to a third example (3) when waves encounter a current with vertical axis of shear, at an oblique angle. The change in wave amplitude is shown to differ somewhat from the previously accepted value.The conclusion that non-linear interactions affect the amplification of the waves has some bearing on the theoretical efficiency of hydraulic and pneumatic breakwaters.

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Journal ArticleDOI

Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications

TL;DR: The radiation stresses in water waves play an important role in a variety of oceanographic phenomena, for example in the change in mean sea level due to storm waves (wave set-up), the generation of "surf-beats", the interaction of waves with steady currents, and the steepening of short gravity waves on the crests of longer waves as discussed by the authors.
Journal ArticleDOI

Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to `surf-beats'

TL;DR: In this article, the second-order currents and changes in mean surface level which are caused by gravity waves of non-uniform amplitude are investigated, and the effects are interpreted in terms of the radiation stresses in the waves.
Book

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

TL;DR: The SWAN wave model as discussed by the authors is a wave model based on linear wave theory (SWAN) for oceanic and coastal waters, and it has been shown to be effective in detecting ocean waves.
Journal ArticleDOI

Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves: 1

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used known results on the radiation stress associated with gravity waves, and showed that the total lateral thrust exerted by incoming waves on the beach and in the nearshore zone is rigorously shown to equal (E 0/4) sin 2θ 0 per unit distance parallel to the coastline, where E denotes the energy density of the waves in deep water and θ denotes the waves' angle of incidence.
References
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Surface Waves

TL;DR: In this paper, the evanescent field structure over the wave front, as represented by equiphase planes, is identified as one of the most important and easily recognizable forms of surface wave.
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Changes in the form of short gravity waves on long waves and tidal currents

TL;DR: In this article, the changes in wavelength and amplitude of the shorter wave train are rigorously calculated by taking into account the non-linear interactions between the two wave trains, and the results differ in some essentials from previous estimates by Unna.
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The Action of a Surface Current Used as a Breakwater

TL;DR: The conditions under which an outward-flowing surface current can prevent the passage of waves coming in from the sea are investigated mathematically in this article, where two types of surface currents are considered: (a) a current with uniform velocity extending to a depth h ; (b) a surface current with velocity decreasing uniformly and vanishing at depth h.
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Pneumatic and Similar Breakwaters

TL;DR: In this paper, it was shown that the surface currents set up by air injection, and the distribution of the water velocity within the currents, can be matched by currents created by water jets, and that the two currents so matched have almost the same wave-damping effect whether they are set up with water jets or by air.
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The refraction of surface waves by currents

TL;DR: In this article, a theoretical development is given for these factors in terms of initial wave length and direction, and the magnitude of the current, and discussion is given of the action of a coastal current in affording protection against short period waves.