Journal ArticleDOI
The Role of Wave Erosion on Sloping and Horizontal Shore Platforms in Macro- and Mesotidal Environments
TLDR
Waves were measured over tidal cycles on a sloping, basaltic shore platform at Scots Bay in the macrotidal Bay of Fundy (large tidal range 13.5 m) and on a horizontal, argillite platform at Mont Louis in Gaspe, Quebec (Large tidal range 3 m), and video cameras were used to record the height and period of the waves against a series of graduated metal poles anchored along surveyed, shore normal profiles as discussed by the authors.Abstract:
Waves were measured over tidal cycles on a sloping, basaltic shore platform at Scots Bay in the macrotidal Bay of Fundy (large tidal range 13.5 m), and on a horizontal, argillite platform at Mont Louis in Gaspe, Quebec (large tidal range 3 m). Video cameras were used to record the height and period of the waves against a series of graduated metal poles anchored along surveyed, shore-normal profiles. Field measurement and theoretical considerations suggest that wave height increases with elevation at Scots Bay, reflecting the occurrence of a gently sloping tidal flat below the midtidal level and higher gradients on the upper than on the lower parts of the platform. Calculated pressures generated within the rock along joints and other discontinuities suggest that wave conditions are suitable for mechanical-wave erosion at Scots Bay. Waves generally break on the low tide cliff at the seaward edge of the platform at Mont Louis, preventing any wave action on the shallow, flooded platform surface behin...read more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
The analysis of Last Interglacial (MIS 5e) relative sea-level indicators: Reconstructing sea-level in a warmer world
Alessio Rovere,Alessio Rovere,Maureen E. Raymo,Matteo Vacchi,Thomas Lorscheid,Thomas Lorscheid,Paolo Stocchi,Lluís Gómez-Pujol,Daniel L. Harris,Daniel L. Harris,Elisa Casella,Michael O'Leary,Paul J. Hearty +12 more
TL;DR: In this article, the authors discuss the characteristics of MIS 5e field observations, and set the basis for a standardized approach to MIS 5 e paleo sea-level reconstructions, that is already successfully applied in Holocene sea level research.
Journal ArticleDOI
Rock coast geomorphology: Recent advances and future research directions
TL;DR: There have been considerable advances in rock coast research in the past decade as mentioned in this paper, as measured in terms of the number of active researchers and in a number of research papers being produced, highlighting many of the improvements that have been made in our ability to identify and measure the processes shaping rock coasts, at a range of spatial and temporal scales.
Journal ArticleDOI
Modelling the processes of cliff-top erosion and deposition under extreme storm waves
TL;DR: In this paper, the wave conditions and forces encountered at cliff-face and cliff-top platform and propose mechanisms to link wave processes to cliffface quarrying and land-ward cliff top transport of quarried blocks to deposition zones at the rear of the cliff top platform.
Journal ArticleDOI
Shore platform abrasion in a para-periglacial environment, Galicia, northwestern Spain
Ramón Blanco-Chao,Augusto Pérez-Alberti,Alan S. Trenhaile,Manuela Costa-Casais,M. Valcárcel-Díaz +4 more
TL;DR: The Schmidt Rock Test Hammer was used to study the effect of abrasion on shore platforms in Galicia, northwestern Spain this article, and the results showed that abrading removes weathered surface material, exposing the stronger, less weathered rock below.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave transformation on a sub-horizontal shore platform, Tatapouri, North Island, New Zealand
TL;DR: In this article, a detailed description of wave transformation processes across a shore platform near Gisborne, New Zealand was provided, where a field experiment was conducted on an intertidal, 250m-wide platform that is characterised by a sharp seaward edge.
References
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Book
The Geomorphology of Rock Coasts
TL;DR: In this paper, a reference text deals with the geomorphology of rock coasts and brings together the results of research conducted by coastal engineers, biologists, geologists and physical geographers from many parts of the world.
Mouvements ondulatoires de la mer en profondeur constante ou décroissante
TL;DR: In this article, the authors confronterons dans l'ordre ci-dessus, les faits avec les theories en cours, nous en indiquerons.
Journal ArticleDOI
Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction
Paul D. Komar,Michael K. Gaughan +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a critical value for Yt> = H/h was used as a wave breaking criterion, where Hb and hb are respectively the wave breaker height and depth, and assuming conservation of the wave energy flux, one obtains 1/5 2 2/5 Hb = k g (TH) relating Hb to the wave period T and to the deep-water wave height H^.
Journal ArticleDOI
Modeling the development of wave-cut shore platforms
TL;DR: In this article, a mathematical model was used to investigate the development of wave-cut shore platforms with constant sea level, considering the effects of deep water wave height spectra, period and wavelength, breaker height and depth, breaker type, the width and bottom roughness of the surf zone, the gradient of the submarine slope, an erosional threshold related to the strength of the rocks, the number of hours each year in which the water level is at each intertidal elevation and the amount and persistence of the debris at the cliff foot.
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