Showing papers in "International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology in 2015"

Flame retardant cellulosic textile using bannana pseudostem sap

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to use the natural wastage plant product, bannana pseudostem sap (BPS) for using as fire retardant of cellulosic textile substrate. The study aims to use first time any wastage plant product for making fire retardant cellulosic textile. In this regard flame retardant functionality was imparted in cellulosic textile using BPS, an eco-friendly natural wastage product. Design/methodology/approach – The extracted sap was made alkaline and applied in pre-mordanted bleached and mercerized cotton fabrics. Flame retardant properties of the control and treated fabrics were analyzed in terms of limiting oxygen index (LOI), horizontal and vertical flammability and total heat of combustion using bomb calorimeter. The thermal degradation and pyrolysis was studied using thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The chemical composition of the control and BPS treated cellulosic fabric were analyzed by FTIR, SEM and EDX. Durability of the flame retardant functionality to soap washing had al...

Impact of firefighter gear on lower body range of motion

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the incremental impact of firefighter’s personal protective equipment (PPE) on lower body range of motion (ROM) while walking to suggest areas of design improvement for enhanced mobility and safety. Design/methodology/approach – Eight male and four female firefighters participated in the study. Lower body ROM was assessed while they walked in four different configurations of PPE, including turnout ensemble, a self-contained breathing apparatus (SCBA) and boots. The impact of each added PPE item, and gender differences were statistically analyzed. Findings – Wearing firefighter turnout ensemble and SCBA reduced ROM in the lower body in the sagittal and transverse planes. A significant reduction in ROM for anterior-posterior movement at the ankle and the ball of the foot was found while wearing rubber boots with turnout ensemble and SCBA. This puts firefighters at higher risk of experiencing foot injuries and physical strains. A significant increase in m...

Investigating the sustainability of the Korean textile and fashion industry

Abstract: Purpose – Fashion and textile industry has confronted to participate with the sustainable industry and society proactively not by the government regulations, but by the shareholders or consumers driven with corporate social responsibility. The purpose of this paper is to consider methods applied for the sustainability of products according to Korean domestic fashion and textile companies and clothing types and to investigate the limitation of current sustainability methods of companies. Design/methodology/approach – The study used document analysis and case studies of 396 companies. The study looked into newspapers, monthly magazines, and publications of fashion companies and internet web sites of almost every possible type that have been issued to date and analyzed the previous studies as well. Findings – The companies’ strategies are of three groups, the uses of environmental friendly materials: 36.9 percent (natural fibers, recycled fibers and biodegradable fibers), apparel reuse: 4.5 percent (remodeli...

A new method to assess the influence of textiles properties on human thermophysiology. Part I: Thermal resistance

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to determine the validity and inter-/intra-laboratory repeatability of the first part of a novel, three-phase experimental procedure using a sweating Torso device Design/methodology/approach – Results from a method comparison study (comparison with the industry-standard sweating guarded hotplate method) and an inter-laboratory comparison study are presented Findings – A high correlation was observed for thermal resistance in the method comparison study (r=097, p<001) as well as in the inter-laboratory comparison study (r=099, p<001) Research limitations/implications – The authors conclude that the first phase of the standardised procedure for the sweating Torso provides reliable data for the determination of the dry thermal resistance of single and multi-layer textiles, and is therefore suitable as standard method to be used by different laboratories with this type of device Further work is required to validate the applicability of the method for textiles wit

Finite element simulation on clothing pressure and body deformation of the top part of men’s socks using curve fitting equations

Abstract: Purpose – Objective appraisal of pressure comfort is the basement of optimal design of clothing. The purpose of this paper is to study a new method to appraise pressure comfort through displacement distribution, and then explored the multiple relationship between pressure and displacement on the lower leg cross-section using finite element method (FEM) and curve fitting. Design/methodology/approach – This paper presented a 2D simulation model of the lower leg cross-section consisting of three layer different mechanical properties, namely skin, soft tissue, and bone. Analyzed the relationship and variation tendency between contact pressure and strain, calculated the multiple relationship between pressure and displacement on the lower leg cross-section where located at the top part of men’s socks in detail, and then obtained the quadratic functional equation between angle and pressure/displacement ratio through segmented curve fitting using Origin 7.5 software. Findings – In this research work, the mathematical equation is obtained which describe the relationship between angle and pressure/displacement of the top part of men’s socks. On the premise of the known contact pressure values on the lower leg cross-section, the corresponding displacement values on the human body surface can be obtained by the functional equation under stress, and this displacement could be used as an objective evaluation index for pressure comfort. Based on these conclusions, the authors could provide theoretical reference for pressure prediction and optimizing the design of clothing. Research limitations/implications – This paper is unconcerned with the simulating of pressure, strain, and displacement distribution when dressing during the course of walking and running. Originality/value – The paper analyzed the relationship and variation tendency between contact pressure and strain using FEM, and then obtained the quadratic functional equation between angle and pressure/displacement ratio of the top part of socks. It can supply a new method to appraise pressure comfort.

Intelligent fashion styling using genetic search and neural classification

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to develop an intelligent system for fashion style selection for non-standard female body shapes. Design/methodology/approach – With the goal of creating natural aesthetic relationship between the body shape and the shape of clothing, garments designed for the upper and lower body are combined to fit different female body shapes, which are classified as V, A, H and O-shapes. The proposed intelligent system combines genetic algorithm (GA) with a neural network classifier, which is trained using the particle swarm optimization (PSO). The former, called genetic search, is used to find the optimal design parameters corresponding to a best fit for the desired target, while the task of the latter, called neural classification, is to evaluate fitness (goodness) of each evolved new fashion style. Findings – The experimental results are fashion styling recommendations for the four female body shapes, drawn from 260 possible combinations, based on variations from 15 attributes...

3D parametric human modeling for warp-knitted seamless garment

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to develop a parametric design method for 3D human bodies to be used in computer-aided style design and the 3D presentations of warp-knitted seamless garment. Design/methodology/approach – In order to obtain 3D human bodies of different sizes, all of which have been based on anthropometric measurement, a human body model template was constructed by importing vertices and facets information in an OBJ model file which had been exported from POSER. A parametric model was then established by extracting feature information from the template model using a method combining 3D geometry analysis and human semantic analysis; this information included the template model’s feature points and measurements. By applying a mesh deformation method, based on the radius basis function interpolation, to the template model, different size human bodies were then generated according to user-specific anthropometric measurements. Findings – The test results validated the method presented in ...

Visibility aid cycling clothing: flashing light-emitting diode (FLED) configurations

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate drivers’ differing psychological perceptions of cyclists’ conspicuity according to active visibility aid configurations on clothing. Design/methodology/approach – The flashing light-emitting diodes (FLEDs) were positioned on the major joints (shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles) in eight configurations and pre- and post-surveys were conducted. Findings – The results indicated that there were significant differences among the eight configurations in observers’ detection and recognition of cyclists, contributions of FLEDs, and visibility of cyclists (p<0.001). Among the eight different configurations on joints, FLEDs on the hips, knees, and ankles were the most detectable, recognizable, and visible. Originality/value – Most of the previous studies have investigated passive visibility aids and there is a lack of research on FLED configurations on major joints for cyclists. Thus, this study is expected to be beneficial to designers when deve...

Upper garment 3D modeling for pattern making

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method. Design/methodology/approach – The authors used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, the authors made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, the authors produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, the authors calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each ba...

A fabric defect detection algorithm via context-based local texture saliency analysis

Abstract: Purpose – Fabric defect detection plays an important role in textile quality control. The purpose of this paper is to propose a fabric defect detection algorithm via context-based local texture saliency analysis. Design/methodology/approach – In the proposed algorithm, a target image is first divided into blocks, then the Local Binary Pattern (LBP) technique is used to extract the texture features of blocks. Second, for a given image block, several other blocks are randomly chosen for calculating the LBP contrast between a given block and the randomly chosen blocks. Based on the obtained contrast information, a saliency map is produced. Finally, saliency map is segmented by using an optimal threshold, which is obtained by an iterative approach. Findings – The experimental results show that the proposed algorithm, integrating local texture features and global image texture information, can detect texture defects effectively. Originality/value – In this paper, a novel fabric defect detection algorithm via c...

An analysis on EEG power spectrum under pressure of girdle

Abstract: Purpose – The pressure exerted on the body by clothes is one important factor affecting the comfort of clothing, it is an effective method to evaluate pressure comfort by physiology and psychology. The purpose of this paper is to measure, electroencephalography (EEG), an index of brain activity in order to examine the effect on brain activity conditions caused by oppression exerted by clothing on the body. Design/methodology/approach – EEG power spectrum analysis was conduct to verify the electrophysiological characteristic of brain caused by pressure on the body by girdle. Findings – Experimental results showed that the intensity of α waves in the pressure condition is decreased compared to the non-pressure condition, and the somatosensory activated by pressure of girdle mainly in occipital, frontal and parietal region of brain. Originality/value – It was clarified that it is impossible to evaluate the clothes pressure by physiological technique of EEG, this study has enriched methods of evaluation press...

Study on textile assemblies with aluminized basalt fabrics destined for protective gloves

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to check an applicability of aluminized basalt fabrics for production of gloves protecting simultaneously against thermal and mechanical factors. Design/methodology/approach – Six variants of protective gloves were manufactured using two different glove constructions: more simple and cheaper with the anatomical thumb arrangement (model A), and more ergonomic one with so called “distance gussets” (model B). Aluminized basalt fabrics were contained in the back side of all variants and in only one variant of palm side. Then the protective properties against thermal and mechanical factors were measured according to the up-to-date standards. Findings – The fulfillment of contact heat requirement was achieved for all glove variants at 100°C. Application of aluminized basalt fabrics in the glove back side allowed obtaining the fourth performance level in the case of resistance to small metal splashes and assuring the highest protection against the radiant heat and small met...

The human factors/ergonomics studies for respirators: a review and future work

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to provide an overview of the human factors/ergonomics (HFE) studies for respirator. Design/methodology/approach – This review paper describes and discusses the various factors and methodologies of HFE, for the purpose of better considering human factors, used in respirator studies and further human-centered product development. Findings – Many attempts have been made to study human factors for respirators mainly including fit, human performance, comfort, and mood. Physical, psychological, and physiological indices of people are extremely valuable to HFE studies for respirator. Objective and subjective measures were methodologies widely used. Quantitative and qualitative approaches were adopted to illustrate the human performance and well-being influenced by respirators. A summary table presented with major methods used for indices of respirators in the field of HFE. According to the current researches, this review indicated three particular challenges facing HFE stu...

Organic cotton, lyocell and SPF: a comparative study

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to present a comparative study on the characteristics of knitted fabrics used in the manufacturing of apparel, which are produced from organic cotton, lyocell and soybean protein fiber (SPF). It is important for both the environment and society that textile industry continues to adopt more ecofriendly materials and furthermore, pushes to increase awareness regarding these material choices available to the consumer and the corresponding impacts of consumers’ decisions. The use of sustainable fibers may be a starting point for changing the industrial paradigm of the textile industry. Design/methodology/approach – The research presented herein analyzes the potential use of three raw materials used in the development of knitted fabrics: organic cotton, lyocell and SPF. The experimental trials, based on norms, determined the weight, pilling, rupture pressure resistance, absorption by capillarity, dimensional alteration and elasticity. The significance of the experimental ...

Combined effects of moisture and radiation on thermal performance of protective clothing: Experiments by a sweating manikin exposed to low level radiation

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to study the combined effects of moisture and radiation on thermal protective performance of protective clothing exposed to low level radiation. Design/methodology/approach – Using a sweating manikin, the effect of radiation and moisture on heat and moisture transfer was initially analyzed under the dry manikin with sweating rate of 100 g/(m2h) exposed to 2.5 kW/m2, and then studied at 200 and 300 g/(m2h) exposed to 2 and 3 kW/m2, respectively. Finally, the combined effects of thermal radiation and moisture were predicted by fitting the relationships among heat loss and wet skin surface temperature, with the sweating rate and radiation intensity. Findings – The results show that the heat loss and the wet skin surface temperature are affected by the combined effects of moisture and radiation, with two distinctly different trends. Heat loss from the manikin is increasing with the sweating rate, and decreasing with thermal radiation intensity. However, the wet skin surf...

Modeling the performance of a PCM cooling vest considering its side effects

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to identify and evaluate the potential cooling contribution provided by a phase change material cooling vest as part of the total heat exchange mechanism of the body and take in to account the negative side effects of wearing the cooling garments. Design/methodology/approach – In this study, the three-part system of body-garment-environment has been simulated through the finite element method and the problem of heat exchange between these three parts has been solved with the help of computer modeling. Findings – The results of this modeling showed that a large percentage of the cooling efficiency of cooling vest was neutralized by the negative effects of the vest that are weight, lack of breathability, and the effects on the thermal conductivity of the skin. Therefore, the net efficiency of the cooling vests resulted in a lower decrease in skin temperature compared to the state that the negative side effects were not included in the model. Originality/value – Cooling...

Connexion: Development of interactive soft furnishings with polymeric optical fibre (POF) textiles

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate how electronic components can be utilized and integrated into polymeric optical fibre (POF) textiles to refine the design aesthetic, tactile quality and initiate the interaction of textiles with the users; and to study the design process of interactive products by using a novel design process model. Design/methodology/approach – Fashion and textile design methods, textile technology are used in combination with modern technologies such as laser engraving, sensing, short-distance communication technology, throughout the entire process of development of interactive photonics creations. Findings – The results of evaluation indicate that the engineered prototypes can enhance the interactive function of interior furnishing. The usability of interactive POF cushions is optimized by innovative design methods considering both design and technology. Originality/value – This research explores to combine knowledge from different disciplines, including textile, electronics, sensor and laser to create interactive soft furnishings. The inter-disciplinary research provides a new perspective on how POF fabric can be utilized as a new media to change the way people interact with their living surroundings. The interior soft furnishings are no longer unresponsive to people, but can react to them, adapt to their behaviors, change color according to their preferences and therefore merge into our daily life. The developed prototypes reshape interior soft furnishing, and therefore have both theoretical and practical significance.

Development of individualized pattern prototype based on classification of body features

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to concentrate on the development of individualized prototype of apparel patterns for young females from 3D body scanning data. Design/methodology/approach – The authors presented a new pattern-making approach that is composed of three major steps: to establish the relationships between body features and corresponding elements in a prototype (e.g. curve or a point); to classify the relationship into grades that provide alternatives to fit a variety of bodies; and to assemble each individual element into a personalized prototype. Findings – The experiment demonstrated that this method could be used for customized prototype development from 3D body scanning in a relatively easy way. Research limitations/implications – Currently, the subjects of this study included only Chinese young females, and the regression models were just suitable for the similar body types though, the research method could be extended to other somatotypes and age groups. Social implications – This approach can be used in the field of made-to-measure, mass customization, and the quick response for apparel pattern making. The technology in this paper facilitates to generate an individualized pattern prototype from 3D body scanning data. Originality/value – Originated from the relationship between the features of a human body and the elements of a pattern prototype, the authors presented a new approach to develop an individualized pattern prototype by classifying the features into grades.

Determination of distance ease of pants using 3D scanning data

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to focus on the determination of distance ease of pants from the 3D scanning data of a clothed and unclothed body. Design/methodology/approach – A human model whose body size conformed to the Chinese dummy standard and four pairs of suit pants were chosen for the study. The scanned surfaces of both the body and the pant were superimposed based on the preset markers. The circumferences at four important positions – abdomen, hip, thigh and knee – were selected for pant ease determination. At one position (e.g. hip), the two cross-sections were divided into several characteristic sections and the distance ease, i.e. the space between the cross-sections at each section was measured. The regression equations between the distance ease and ease allowance were then derived so that the distance ease can be estimated. Findings – The relationship was found between the distance ease and the ease allowance. Meanwhile, a mathematic model was established to convert the distance eas...

Study on the relationship between pressure and stiffness coefficient, and elastic elongation of the top part of men’s socks using finite element method

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to study a new method to appraise pressure comfort through displacement distribution, and then explore the relationship between pressure and stiffness coefficient, and elastic elongation of the top part of men’s socks using finite element method. Design/methodology/approach – Through 3D body scanning, a biomechanical lower leg cross-section model is constructed for simulating elastic contact between human body and top part of socks. The human body is regarded as an elastomer and the contact between lower leg and top part of socks is elastic contact, displacement distribution tendency under pressure can be obtained using ANSYS, and the elastic elongation of top part of socks after putting on was calculated based on the displacement values. In this research work, the authors discuss in details with the relationship between pressure and stiffness coefficient, and elastic elongation of top part of socks. Findings – In this research work, the mathematical equation of pres...

Analysing effect of the factors on ultrasonic seam tensile properties of nonwoven fabrics by Nested Anova Design

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the factors effecting ultrasonic seam tensile properties. Design/methodology/approach – In this study, 100 percent polypropylene and 100 percent polyester spunbond and meltblown nonwoven fabrics were sewn by using ultrasonic sewing machine with different rollers which have two, three and four rows. Seam tensile properties of the sewn nonwoven fabrics were investigated. Four-Level Nested Anova Design was applied to the data by using Minitab 15 software program. Findings – Higher seam strength values were obtained by using four rows roller, PP fiber, spunbond fabric and 50 g/m2 fabric area density for all nonwoven fabrics. Statistical significance was found between fabric area density, roller rows and seam tensile strength properties and between fabric type, roller rows and seam elongation at break values. Originality/value – When the authors look at the studies related to ultrasonic sewing, several researchers studied on welding parameters of ultrasonic...

Extraction of pectin from flax fiber by chemical means

Abstract: Purpose – Building the relationship between retting termination and pectin content remained in the fiber is crucial for ensuring the identity quality of retted flax In order to measure the pectin content, pectin must be removed thoroughly from the fiber The purpose of this paper is to find the most suitable method to extract pectin from flax phloem fiber Design/methodology/approach – Methods of extracting pectin from fruits were employed to ensure the complete removal of pectin from flax for the first time, including extraction with ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid, hydrochloric acid and ion exchange resin Traditional ammonium oxalate-KOH method was adopted as control Each procedure was optimized according to the yield of pectin A characteristic chromogenic technique for determining the exact pectin amount was used, which ensured the precise measurement of pectin extracted Findings – Results showed that comparing with the traditional ammonium oxalate-KOH method, methods of hydrochloric acid and io

Light-emitting textile display with floats for electronics covering

Abstract: Purpose – Flexible light-emitting textile display is designed with floats for electronic elements covering and electronic contacts insulation what at the same time provides an opportunity to develop aesthetic design of the display in the single piece construction of material. The paper aims to discuss these issues. Design/methodology/approach – Display consists of interwoven electrically conductive yarns, non-conductive yarns and SMD LEDs connected to conductive yarns. Industrial jacquard weaving machine have been used, weave patterns were designed in PC-Edit software. Findings – Weave can be used as a tool to build and evolve electrotextile. Exploring weaving techniques and perceiving electronic circuit as a weave pattern, new approaches can be developed in electrotextile design field. Research limitations/implications – Connections of electronic elements and conductive textile materials still is actual problem what should be explored in further research. Practical implications – Flexible light emitting ...

An expert system to improve the functioning of the clothing industry

Abstract: Purpose – Today the garment industry in Mexico is vulnerable to complex problems. This type of industry is subject to influences which over time, modify the perceptions of those involved in the design process due to the fact that they face problems that have both objective and subjective characteristics. In this study the authors used interviews, direct observation methodology, and theoretical argumentation to obtain the experts knowledge as they describe the problems that arise in the process of garment design for Mexican markets. The purpose of this paper is to generate a methodology so that the expert in this field will become highly specialized, resulting in heightened abilities and reinforcing them with the methodology of soft systems and the design management model (DMM). The results suggest that they are applicable to any area of design. Design/methodology/approach – The success or failure of expert system (ES) depends directly on the acquisition of knowledge (Mendez-Gurrola, 2007, 2012), to accomp...

Analysis of human body surface shape using parametric design method

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to analyze automation of body surface shape. Design/methodology/approach – Numerous body landmarks are detected automatically. Body surface can be subdivided into multiple patches in a consistent manner using parametric design method. Findings – Complex surface shape of various human bodies can be analyzed easily and consistently. Research limitations/implications – The proposed method may not be applicable for a body with the shape which significantly differs from that of an average body. Practical implications – This method can greatly reduce the time required to analyze the surface shape of a three dimensional body scan data. Originality/value – The analysis of body surface shape is one of the most important processes especially in designing close fitting garments. The parametric design of body surface patches will facilitate the analysis of numerous body scan data.

Parametric virtual lower body of elderly women for apparel industry

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to develop a virtual body that resembles the customer’s body shape using only the minimum information provided by the customer and without requiring individually scanned data. Design/methodology/approach – The target of this study includes the three-dimensional scanned data of 91 senior women aged 60 or older and human body measurement data of 268 people. The parametric virtual body was generated in three steps: a basic virtual body, a trans-shaped virtual body, and a trans-sized virtual body. Findings – Using organic relationships found in the body shape factors of the lower body, this study developed an algorithm to generate elderly women’s parametric virtual lower body that is quick and reproducible. Having tested the reproducibility of the algorithm, the parametric virtual body showed excellent reproducibility vis-a-vis the personal scanned data in both the shape acceptability and size acceptability. Originality/value – Because virtual bodies in this study are ba...

Local ventilation and wear response of working jackets with different fabric permeability

Abstract: Purpose – An experimental study was conducted to investigate the local ventilation (the right arm, the chest and the back) and wear response of three types of working jackets in different conditions. The relationship between the local ventilation and its related wear response was also explored. The paper aims to discuss these issues. Design/methodology/approach – A clothing local ventilation measuring system was developed based on the steady state method to measure the local ventilation of the right arm, the chest and the back. Separate wear trials were conducted to determine the local skin temperature, local microclimate temperature and humidity, clothing local surface temperature, heart rate (HR), eardrum temperature and subjective perceptions. Findings – The results indicated that the back part of the jacket had the highest ventilation, followed by the chest and the arm. Fabric permeability affected the local ventilation of the arm and the chest more than on the back. Clothing local surface temperature...

The optimization design of uniform’s hanging production line

Abstract: Purpose – Garment manufacturing is a traditional industry with global competition. The most critical part is streamline, as it generally involves a great number of operations. The purpose of this paper is to, based on the model of group technology (GT), sum up the methods of assembly line optimization to optimize the streamline, so that the machines of the workstation can perform the assigned tasks with a balanced loading. Design/methodology/approach – In this paper, the methods of obtaining and optimizing data includes literature, research and optimization methods of basing on GT model. The main direction of literature has two aspects: Lean production theory and streamline assignment. Research mainly concludes three aspects: research place, research object and the research content. The method of time determination is averaging the testing values of repeated measurements. Optimization methods of basing on GT model mainly include combination of the same type of technologic processes in sequence, combinatio...

Nano-modification of plasma treated inkjet printing fabrics

Abstract: Purpose – Inkjet printing is becoming increasingly important and popular for the printing of textiles. As one of the environmentally friendly processes, the plasma has been widely used to modify the surface properties of inkjet printing substrates. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the nano-modification of plasma on polyester fabric for pigment inkjet printing. The actual printing performance and the related mechanical behavior of samples were also evaluated. Design/methodology/approach – Polyester fabrics were surface modified by atmospheric pressure air plasma with the aim to improve its inkjet printing performance. The effects of plasma treatment on surface properties of fabrics were characterized using X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and Scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The wettability of the samples is evaluated by measurement of contact angles of different polar liquids and surface energy. Breaking strength and elongation, bending rigidity are tested to evaluate the mechanical be...

Ring yarn quality prediction using hybrid artificial neural network

Abstract: Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to predict a global quality index of a ring spun yarn whose count Ne is ranging between 7.8 (76.92 tex) and 22.2 (27 tex). To fulfill this goal, a hybrid model based on artificial neural network (ANN) and fuzzy logic has been established. Fiber properties, yarn count and twist level are used as inputs to train the hybrid model and the output would be a quality index which includes the major physical properties of ring spun yarn. Design/methodology/approach – The hybrid model has been developed by means of the application of two soft computing approaches. These techniques are ANN which allows the authors to predict four important yarn properties, namely: tenacity, breaking elongation, unevenness and hairiness and fuzzy expert system which investigates spinner experience to give each combination of the four yarn properties an index ranging from 0 to 1. The prediction of the model accuracy was estimated using statistical performance criteria. These criteria are correlation coefficient, root mean square error, mean absolute error and mean relative percent error. Findings – The obtained results show that the constructed hybrid model is able to predict yarn quality from the chosen input variables with a reasonable degree of accuracy. Originality/value – Until now, there is no sufficiently information to evaluate and predict the global yarn quality from raw materials characteristics and process parameters. Therefore, this present paper’s aim is to investigate spinner experience and their understanding about both the impact of various parameters on yarn properties and the relationship between these properties and the global yarn quality to predict a quality index.