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A comparison of time-stepping numerical predictions with whole-field flow measurement in breaking waves

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TLDR
In this paper, full-field velocity measurements under the crest of a laboratory generated breaking wave are compared with a fully non-linear time-stepping numerical model and a plunging breaker is generated, on constant water depth, using the numerical model, then reproduced by matching wave amplitude timeseries at a position just before the breaking.
Abstract
Instantaneous, full-field velocity measurements under the crest of a laboratory generated breaking wave are presented and compared with a fully non-linear time-stepping numerical model. A plunging breaker is generated, on constant water depth, using the numerical model, then reproduced in a wave flume by matching wave amplitude timeseries at a position just before the breaking. The generation of the waves is achieved by means of a computer controlled wave paddle and measurements of the flow made with a full-field photographic technique (PIV). The photographic records of the flow are analysed on an automatic rig and the measurements are shown to compare well with the numerical calculations.

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Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI

Particle image velocimetry: A review

TL;DR: The evolution of particle image velocimetry (PIV) from its various roots is discussed in this paper, where the importance of these roots and their influence on different trends in the speciality are described.
Journal ArticleDOI

Wave Breaking in Deep Water

TL;DR: The most dramatic breakers are plunging breakers where the breaking commences by the wave overturning and forming a forward moving sheet of water which plunges down into the water in front causing splashes, air entrainment, and eddies as discussed by the authors.
Journal ArticleDOI

Use of bubble image velocimetry for measurement of plunging wave impinging on structure and associated greenwater

TL;DR: In this article, a modified particle image velocimetry (PIV) was introduced by directly using bubbles as the tracer and measuring the bubble velocity by correlating the 'texture' of the bubble images.
Journal ArticleDOI

An experimental study of deep water plunging breakers

TL;DR: In this paper, a two-dimensional wave tank is used to generate breaking waves on the surface of essentially deep water in a 2D wave tank by superposition of progressive waves with slowly decreasing frequency.
Journal ArticleDOI

Particle image velocimetry for predictions of acceleration fields and force within fluid flows

TL;DR: In this paper, an experimental investigation of various methods of using the nonintrusive particle image velocimetry (PIV) technology to obtain the acceleration field of fluid flows and particularly the force being exchanged between a fluid flow and its boundaries is described.
References
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Book

The Fourier Transform and Its Applications

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors provide a broad overview of Fourier Transform and its relation with the FFT and the Hartley Transform, as well as the Laplace Transform and the Laplacian Transform.
Journal ArticleDOI

The Deformation of Steep Surface Waves on Water. I. A Numerical Method of Computation

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present a method for following the time-history of space-periodic irrotational surface waves, where the only independent variables are the coordinates and velocity potential of marked particles at the free surface at each time step an integral equation is solved for the new normal component of velocity.
Journal ArticleDOI

Production of Multiple Beam Fringes from Photographic Scatterers

TL;DR: In this article, a method for the production of interference fringes equivalent to those produced by a series of linearly arranged pinholes without actually constructing such pinholes is described, which is similar to those occurring in multiple beam hologram interferometry and to the lobes produced by one dimensional antenna arrays.
Journal ArticleDOI

Deep-water plunging breakers: a comparison between potential theory and experiments

TL;DR: In this article, the authors provide a detailed confirmation of the validity of potential-flow theory for describing steep gravity waves produced in an experimental tank, using a refined mixed Eulerian-Lagrangian solution scheme under the assumptions of potential flow.
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