Proceedings ArticleDOI
Near-shore doppler current meter wave spectra 1
Lee Gordon,Atle Lohrmann +1 more
- pp 33-43
TLDR
In this paper, the authors compare PUV wave observations from two collocated velocity/pressure sensors (Aquadopp Current Profiler and Vector Velocimeter) to evaluate their performance.Abstract:
We compare PUV wave observations from two collocated velocity/pressure sensors (Aquadopp Current Profiler and Vector Velocimeter). Our objective was to use the differences in the two sensors to evaluate their performance. We evaluate limitations and uncertainties in the wave measurements, focusing particularly on the high frequency cutoff and uncertainties in direction and spreading. We model direction and spreading uncertainties with a simple Monte Carlo simulation, which compares well with our wave data. We conclude that either instrument is able to observe wave spectra and wave height with an uncertainty of a few percent and with wave direction uncertainties of a few degrees.read more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
Spatial and seasonal variation in wave attenuation over Zostera noltii
Maike Paul,Carl L. Amos +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present field data on wave attenuance collected over a 13-month period in a Zostera noltii meadow, where wave heights and flow velocities were measured along a transect at regular intervals during which the site was exposed to wind waves and boat wakes that differ in wave period and steepness.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef
TL;DR: In this article, observations of a steep coral forereef and its associated lagoonal system on the north shore of Moorea, French Polynesia were made on a reef.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave-current interactions in a tide dominated estuary
TL;DR: In this paper, an assessment of the wave-current interactions in a hypertidal estuary was performed using observational data and an advanced model, which is coupled with a spectral wave model and a turbulence model.
Journal ArticleDOI
Mechanisms of maintaining high suspended sediment concentration over tide-dominated offshore shoals in the southern Yellow Sea
Jilian Xiong,Xiao Hua Wang,Ya Ping Wang,Jingdong Chen,Benwei Shi,Jianhua Gao,Yang Yang,Qian Yu,Mingliang Li,Lei Yang,Xulong Gong +10 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors measured water depths, current velocities, suspended sediment concentrations (SSCs), wave parameters and bottom sediment compositions in the southern Yellow Sea and used these data to calculate bottom shear stresses generated by currents, waves, and wave-current interactions.
Journal ArticleDOI
Estimates of Reynolds stress in a highly energetic shelf sea
Alejandro J. Souza,M. J. Howarth +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a comparison of ADCP and Acoustic Current Velocimeter (ADV) estimates of Reynolds stresses is made, and the results show that ADCP performs better than ADV when no strong waves are present.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
Directional spreading of waves in the nearshore
TL;DR: In this paper, surface gravity waves shoaling between 8m water depth and the shoreline on a barred beach indicate that breaking results in an increase in the directional spread of wave energy, in contrast to the directional narrowing with decreasing depth predicted by refraction theory (Snell's law).
Journal ArticleDOI
The Statistical Evaluation of Directional Spectrum Estimates Derived from Pitch/Roll Buoy Data
TL;DR: In this article, the authors examined the statistical validity and variability of the results obtained with the conventional procedure, which is accomplished by formulating the hypothesis that the model spectrum is the true spectrum and rejecting the hypothesis if the difference between observations and data computed from the model is improbably large.
Journal ArticleDOI
Interpreting directional data from large pitch-roll-heave buoys
TL;DR: In this paper, it is shown that the mean direction θ M 1 is robust against the presence of noise, but that s 1 and σ are very sensitive to it.