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Journal ArticleDOI

Quasi-linear Theory of Wind-Wave Generation Applied to Wave Forecasting

TLDR
In this article, the effect of wind-generated gravity waves on the airflow is discussed using quasi-linear theory of wind wave generation, and a sensitive dependence of the aerodynamic drag on wave age is found, explaining the scatter in plots of the experimentally observed drag as a function of the wind speed at 10m height.
Abstract
The effect of wind-generated gravity waves on the airflow is discussed using quasi-linear theory of wind-wave generation. In this theory, both the effects of the waves and the effect of air turbulence on the mean wave profile are taken into account. The main result of this theory is that for young wind sea most of the stress in the boundary layer is determined by momentum transfer from wind to waves, therefore, resulting in a strong interaction between wind and waves. For old wind sea there is, however, hardly any coupling. As a consequence, a sensitive dependence of the aerodynamic drag on wave age is found, explaining the scatter in plots of the experimentally observed drag as a function of the wind speed at 10-m height. Also, the growth rate of waves by wind is found to depend on wave age. All this suggests that a proper description of the physics of the momentum transfer at the air–sea interface can only be given by coupling an atmospheric (boundary-layer) model with an ocean-wave prediction ...

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Journal ArticleDOI

A third-generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation

TL;DR: In this article, a third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated.
Book

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

TL;DR: The SWAN wave model as discussed by the authors is a wave model based on linear wave theory (SWAN) for oceanic and coastal waters, and it has been shown to be effective in detecting ocean waves.
Journal ArticleDOI

Semiempirical Dissipation Source Functions for Ocean Waves. Part I: Definition, Calibration, and Validation

TL;DR: In this article, the spectral dissipation of wind-generated waves is modeled as a function of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent with observations of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties.
Book

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

TL;DR: The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days as discussed by the authors.
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