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Journal ArticleDOI

On the highest non-breaking wave in a group: fully nonlinear water wave breathers versus weakly nonlinear theory

Alexey Slunyaev, +1 more
- 25 Nov 2013 - 
- Vol. 735, pp 203-248
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TLDR
In this paper, the authors examine the problem of the highest non-breaking wave in a wave group by direct numerical simulations of the exact Euler equations and find its dependence on parameters.
Abstract
In nature, water waves usually propagate in groups and the open question about the characteristics of the highest possible wave in a group is of significant theoretical and practical interest. We examine the problem of the highest non-breaking wave in a wave group by direct numerical simulations of the exact Euler equations. The main aim of the study is twofold: (i) to describe the highest wave in a group in fully nonlinear setting and find its dependence on parameters; (ii) to examine correspondence between the exact breather solutions of weakly nonlinear analytic theory based on the integrable nonlinear Schrodinger (NLS) equation and their strongly nonlinear analogues. In contrast to weakly nonlinear models the very notion of the highest wave is ill-defined: the maximal crest elevation, the maximal trough-to-crest height and the deepest trough all occur at close but different moments; correspondingly, we have to speak about distinctively different extreme waves. In the simulations small initial perturbation of a uniform wave train were prescribed in a way ensuring that the initial perturbation excites a single breather-type modulation. The ensuing growth results in higher wave magnitudes and takes longer time to develop compared with the NLS theory. The maxima of crest elevation noticeably exceed their weakly nonlinear analogues. The wave with the highest crest differs significantly from the unmodulated wave: the local wavelength contracts considerably, the crest becomes noticeably higher; the vicinity of the crest of such an extreme wave is close to that of the limiting Stokes periodic wave. Thus, the shape of the maximal crest wave is almost universal, i.e. it practically does not depend on the way the wave group evolved, or even whether there was initially more than one group. The evolution of a single NLS breather has been shown to have a qualitatively similar but quantitatively quite different analogue in the fully nonlinear setting. The one-to-one mapping of the NLS breather solutions onto fully nonlinear ones has been constructed. The fully nonlinear breathers are found to be robust, which provides grounds for applying the results for developing short-term deterministic forecasting of rogue waves.

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Citations
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References
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Book

Linear and Nonlinear Waves

G. B. Whitham
TL;DR: In this paper, a general overview of the nonlinear theory of water wave dynamics is presented, including the Wave Equation, the Wave Hierarchies, and the Variational Method of Wave Dispersion.
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Stability of periodic waves of finite amplitude on the surface of a deep fluid

TL;DR: In this article, the stability of steady nonlinear waves on the surface of an infinitely deep fluid with a free surface was studied. And the authors considered the problem of stability of surface waves as part of the more general problem of nonlinear wave in media with dispersion.
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The disintegration of wave trains on deep water Part 1. Theory

TL;DR: In this paper, a theoretical analysis of the stability of periodic wave trains to small disturbances in the form of a pair of side-band modes is presented, where the wave train becomes highly irregular far from its origin, even when the departures from periodicity are scarcely detectable at the start.
Journal ArticleDOI

Linear and nonlinear waves

TL;DR: The study of waves can be traced back to antiquity where philosophers, such as Pythagoras, studied the relation of pitch and length of string in musical instruments and the subject of classical acoustics was laid down and presented as a coherent whole by John William Strutt in his treatise Theory of Sound.
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