Open AccessJournal Article
Bar Formation Under Breaking Wave Conditions: A Laboratory Study
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TLDR
In this paper, an analysis of bar formation under breaking waves was carried out in a small-scale wave tank and the results were in agreement with field studies concerning wave breaking criteria and the direction of sand transport.Abstract:
An analysis of bar formation under breaking waves was carried out in a small-scale wave tank. Although the 1/100 size scale of the tank was unusual for sediment transport study, the results were in agreement with field studies concerning wave breaking criteria and the direction of sand transport. This size permitted accurate simultaneous measurement of the spatial and temporal variations of both the wave height and the bathymetric profile. This study is the extension of a previous one concerned with non-breaking conditions. The role of the nonlinear wave-wave interactions, reinforced under breaking waves, was displayed in the bar formation. Finally, it was suggested that a more realistic modeling of the mean flows distribution in the bottom boundary layer (difference in direction and intensity between the upper and the lower parts) owing to the superposition of the undertow and nonlinearity effects, will improve the modeling of bar formation.read more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
Wave transformation on a microtidal barred beach (Sète, France)
TL;DR: In this paper, an instrumented field study of the cross-shore evolution of incident waves was conducted on the shoreface of a gentle sloping microtidal barred-beach (Sete, France).
Journal ArticleDOI
Coastal geomorphology into the twenty-first century
TL;DR: For a survey of the state of the art in coastal geomorphology, see as mentioned in this paper, where the authors present a special issue of the journal Geomorphology (Volume 48) devoted to the 29th Binghampton Symposium.
The Influence of Nearshore Bars on Infragravity Energy at the Shoreline
TL;DR: Cox et al. as mentioned in this paper used the numerical nearshore processes model XBeach to simulate infragravity energy at the shoreline and found that the amount of infragravravrav energy in the form of swash is dependent on the bar height and depth, in addition to the offshore wave height and wavelength.
References
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Book
The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves
TL;DR: In this article, the authors present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from a deterministic point of view, and the bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Journal ArticleDOI
Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis
L.D Wright,Andrew D. Short +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, a synthesis of some results obtained over the period 1979-1982 from a study of beach and surf zone dynamics is presented, dealing with the different natural beach states, the process signatures associated with these states, environmental controls on modal beach state, and the temporal variability of beach state and beach profiles.
Book
Coastal Bottom Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport
TL;DR: In this article, a review of bottom boundary layer flows including the boundary layer interaction between waves and steady currents is presented, and the concept of eddy viscosity for these flows is discussed in depth because of its relation to sediment diffusivity.
Journal ArticleDOI
Bar-generating cross-shore flow mechanisms on a beach
J.A. Roelvink,Marcel J. F. Stive +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, random waves normally incident on a dissipative beach induce a variety of cross-shore flows, such as asymmetric oscillatory flow, wave grouping-induced long-wave flow, breaking-induced turbulent flow, and momentum decay-induced undertow.
Journal ArticleDOI
Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone
TL;DR: In this paper, the mean flow and turbulence in a wave flume for a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker were studied, and the results indicated that there are fundamental differences in the dynamics of turbulence between spilling and plunging breakers, which can be related to the processes of wave breaking and turbulence production.
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