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Journal ArticleDOI

Experimental and numerical investigation of viscous effects on solitary wave propagation in a wave tank

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TLDR
In this article, two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer.
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This article is published in Coastal Engineering.The article was published on 2006-02-01. It has received 60 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Boundary layer & Wave propagation.

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Journal ArticleDOI

Boundary layer flow and bed shear stress under a solitary wave

TL;DR: In this paper, the boundary layer flow characteristics under a solitary wave were examined and the analytical solutions for viscous boundary layer flows under transient long waves were obtained with the assumption that the nonlinear inertia force was negligible in the momentum equations.
DissertationDOI

Landslide generated impulse waves: prediction of near field characteristics

TL;DR: In this article, an undistorted hydraulic model based on the Froude similitude was proposed for the generation of subaerial landslide generated impulse waves in a rectangular wave channel of 11 m length, 1 m height, and 0.5 m width.
Journal ArticleDOI

Turbulent boundary layer under a solitary wave

TL;DR: In this article, the boundary layer generated by the propagation of a solitary wave is investigated by means of direct numerical simulations of continuity and Navier-Stokes equations, and the results show that, for small wave amplitudes, the flow regime is laminar.
Journal ArticleDOI

Visco-potential free-surface flows and long wave modelling

TL;DR: In this paper, DutykhDias et al. presented a novel visco-potential free surface flows formulation, which contains local and non-local dissipative terms, and analyzed dispersion relation properties of proposed models.
Journal ArticleDOI

The swash of solitary waves on a plane beach: flow evolution, bed shear stress and run-up

TL;DR: In this paper, the influence of breaker type on flow evolution, spatiotemporal variations of bed shear stresses and run-up was studied using large-scale experiments on a plane beach.
References
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Waves in fluids

TL;DR: One-dimensional waves in fluids as discussed by the authors were used to describe sound waves and water waves in the literature, as well as the internal wave and the water wave in fluids, and they can be classified into three classes: sound wave, water wave, and internal wave.
Journal ArticleDOI

Wave-Induced Sediment Transport and Sandbar Migration

TL;DR: A model that accounts for fluid accelerations in waves predicts the onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach, and the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change.
Journal ArticleDOI

Modeling wave runup with depth-integrated equations

TL;DR: In this paper, a moving boundary technique was developed to investigate wave runup and rundown with depth-integrated equations using a high-order finite difference scheme, which is used to solve highly nonlinear and weakly dispersive equations.
Journal ArticleDOI

The solitary wave in water of variable depth. Part 2

TL;DR: In this paper, the deformation of a solitary wave due to a slow variation of the bottom topography was examined and the variation of amplitude with depth was determined and compared with some recent experimental results.
Book

Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering

TL;DR: The dynamics of strong turbulence at free surfaces, part 1: description, M. Brocchini and D.H. Peregrine as mentioned in this paper, T. Steinbach et al very strong free-surface aeration in turbulent flows - entrainment mechanism and air-water flow structure at the "pseudo" free surface.