Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2006"

TL;DR: In this paper, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions.

TL;DR: Several improvements that are implemented are presented here to handle turbulence, the fluid viscosity and density, and a different time-stepping algorithm is used.

TL;DR: In this paper, different strategies of morphological updating, as an important component of integrated modelling, are discussed, starting with the classical "tide-averaging" approach in combination with the "continuity correction" method.

TL;DR: An overview of the rip current kinematics based on these observations and the scientific advances obtained from these efforts are synthesized in this article, where rip current flows are partitioned into mean, infragravity, very low frequency (vorticity), and tidal contributions, and it is found that each contributes significantly to the total.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors presented and discussed the results obtained from simulating three-dimensional plunging breaking waves by solving the Navier-Stokes equations, in air and water, coupled with a dynamic subgrid scale turbulence model (Large Eddy Simulation, LES).

TL;DR: Garcia et al. as discussed by the authors used a VOF-type model (COBRAS) based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations to reproduce irregular wave interaction with submerged permeable breakwaters.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors simulated the 25m onshore migration of a nearshore sandbar observed over a 5-day period near Duck, NC, with a simplified, computationally efficient, wave-resolving single-phase model.

TL;DR: In this article, a Navier-Stokes solver with a free surface model is used for simulating wave breaking, undertow, and turbulence in breaking waves, and the results for the wave height decay and undertow have been obtained.

TL;DR: A review of the available published literature was undertaken with the aim of investigating the environmental and structural parameters governing shoreline response to submerged structures, gleaned from the results of field, laboratory and numerical studies undertaken to date as mentioned in this paper.

TL;DR: In this article, the effect of acceleration skewness on sheet flow sediment transport rates (q) over bar (s) is analyzed using new data which have acceleration skeveness and superimposed currents but no boundary layer streaming.

TL;DR: In this article, an incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) model is proposed to investigate the wave overtopping of coastal structures, which is a grid-less Lagrangian approach which is capable of tracking the large deformations of the free surface with good accuracy.

TL;DR: The Lagrangian particle method is a superior tool for the modelling of violent behavior of the water surface, such as wave breaking and overtopping as discussed by the authors, and it is used to further develop the numerical wave flume by the particle method, but there remain several issues: modelling of the sub-particle-scale turbulence, modeling of the gas-phase behavior, modelling of movable bed (sediment transport), and modelling of floating bodies.

TL;DR: In this paper, a series expansion from a rapidly spatially varying expansion level and the resulting general velocity formulation is given as a triple-summation of terms involving high derivatives of this expansion level.

TL;DR: In this article, a partially supervised 3-D stereo system (called WASS, Wave Acquisition Stereo System) is presented, including the derivation of a relationship relating the geometry of the stereo rig and the expected errors.

TL;DR: In this paper, three sources of long-term wind and wave data are available in the Mediterranean Sea: numerical models, satellites and buoys, and they make use of the overall information to obtain calibrated decadal time series at a large number of points, distributed at 0.5° intervals.

TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of wave damping by vegetation and bottom friction are considered and linear wave theory is applied to illustrate these effects and, for shallow water waves, the setup is reduced by two-thirds the amount that would occur if the same amount of energy dissipation occurred in the absence of forces.

TL;DR: In this article, the effect of flow irregularity and ripple three-dimensionality on ripple dimensions is investigated. But the authors focus on ripple length and not on ripple width. But they do not consider ripple height and length.

TL;DR: It is shown that Webb's method produces an attractive set of integrable equations, and the Jacobian term arising from the integration over the frequency delta-function in the Boltzmann integral has a singularity well outside the energy containing part of the wave spectrum.

TL;DR: In this article, the flow on a plane beach with a random, directionally spread wave field was simulated with a Boussinesq model, and the random wave spectra were directionally symmetric with their central direction perpendicular to the beach, so no constant longshore current was generated.

TL;DR: In this article, a set of empirical formulations are derived that describe important wave properties in shallow water as functions of commonly used parameters such as wave height, wave period, local water depth and local bed slope.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated the profile evolution evaluating the transport rates from a bed load sediment transport formulation coupled with velocities calculated from a set of Boussinesq equations that have been validated for its use in the surf and swash zones.

TL;DR: In this article, the state-of-the-art process-based model Delft3D Online Morphology has been used to generate synoptic data of high spatial and temporal resolution over the inlet domain.

TL;DR: In this paper, a wave-driven through flow flushing model was proposed to improve the water quality of virtually enclosed South Pacific atolls, where the lagoons are flushed by waves pumping of ocean water into the lagoon and gravity draining water from the reef rim.

TL;DR: Using the volume of fluid (VOF) method, a numerical model is developed to estimate the nonlinear dynamics of a pontoon type moored submerged breakwater under wave action as discussed by the authors.

TL;DR: In this article, the results of a series of 2DH numerical and 3D scaled physical modelling tests indicate that processes governing the response of the shoreline response to submerged structures, such as artificial surfing reefs, are different from those associated with emergent offshore breakwaters.

TL;DR: In this article, a semi-unsteady, practical model was developed to predict the total sediment transport rates in wave or combined wave-current flow conditions that are characteristic of the coastal zone.

TL;DR: In this paper, a neural network model of simulating multi-point tides at multi-points considering tide-generating forces is presented. But the proposed model is examined efficient as the harmonic method to estimate the tides at a single point.

TL;DR: In this article, the results of experimental research carried out in the wave flume of the Water Engineering and Chemistry Department laboratory of Bari Technical University (Italy) and based on the analysis of three different regular waves breaking on a sloping bottom.

TL;DR: In this article, two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer.

TL;DR: In this paper, the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project "Large Scale Modeling of coarse grained Beaches" at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover were described.