Journal ArticleDOI
Incorporation of Wind Effects into Boussinesq Wave Models
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In this article, a new parameterization of the momentum flux transferred from the wind to surface gravity waves in the coastal region on the basis of the field observations was proposed, followed by the implementation of the parameterized wind stress into phase-resolving Boussinesq wave models.Abstract:
Recent advances in the Boussinesq modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics offer a platform for the study of wind effects on wave transformation and breaking-generated nearshore circulation. The paper documents: (1) the new parameterization of the momentum flux transferred from the wind to surface gravity waves in the coastal region on the basis of the field observations; (2) the implementation of the parameterized wind stress into phase-resolving Boussinesq wave models; (3) the development of empirical breaking criteria with the wind effect based on the existing laboratory data; and (4) the tests of the extended Boussinesq model against field observations and empirical results with respect to wind drag coefficients over shoaling waves and wave growth on a shallow lake. Fairly good agreement between the model results and measurements is observed. The methodology for the parameterization of the wind stress as a function of wave steepness and wind speed as well as the extended Boussinesq model incorporating the wind forcing can be used as a tool to improve our understanding of wind effects on nearshore wave propagation and horizontal circulation.read more
Citations
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Boussinesq Models and Their Application to Coastal Processes across a Wide Range of Scales
TL;DR: In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed.
Journal ArticleDOI
Research-Based Surfing Literature for Coastal Management and the Science of Surfing—A Review
TL;DR: A review of research-based surfing literature is undertaken to provide a summary of information available to assist in coastal management decision-making around surfing breaks as discussed by the authors, which is required to protect the seabed features and oceanographic processes that create surfing waves.
Journal ArticleDOI
A new combination of conditional environmental distributions
Jan-Tore H. Horn,Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen,Jørgen R Krokstad,Bernt J. Leira,Jørgen Amdahl +4 more
TL;DR: In this article, a joint distribution of all relevant environmental parameters used in design of offshore structures including directional components is presented, along with a novel procedure for dependency modelling between wind and wind sea.
Journal ArticleDOI
Numerical modelling of wind effects on breaking solitary waves
TL;DR: In this article, a two-phase flow model was proposed to solve the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations with the k−ϵ turbulence model simultaneously for the flows both in the air and water, with the air-water interface calculated by the volume of fluid method.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wind and Current Effects on Extreme Wave Formation and Breaking
Qingping Zou,Haifei Chen +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated wind and current effects on the evolution of a focusing wave group using a two-phase flow model using a Navier-Stokes solver and the Smagorinsky subgrid-scale stress model.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
A third-generation wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation
TL;DR: In this article, a third-generation numerical wave model to compute random, short-crested waves in coastal regions with shallow water and ambient currents (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) has been developed, implemented, and validated.
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A fully nonlinear Boussinesq model for surface waves. Part 1. Highly nonlinear unsteady waves
TL;DR: In this paper, a high-order numerical model based on the Boussinesq model was developed and applied to the study of two canonical problems: solitary wave shoaling on slopes and undular bore propagation over a horizontal bed.
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Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. ii: 2d
TL;DR: In this article, an extended Boussinesq model for surf zone hydrodynamics in two horizontal dimensions is implemented and verified using an eddy viscosity term.
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Wind-Stress coefficients over Sea surface near Neutral Conditions—A Revisit
TL;DR: In this paper, a scaling law of wind-stress coefficients is presented to illustrate explicitly that the coefficient increases with wind velocity and decreases with fetch; physical reasonings of both trends are discussed.
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Similarity of the wind wave spectrum in finite depth water: 1. Spectral form
TL;DR: In this article, a self-similar spectral shape (the TMA spectrum) was proposed to describe wind waves in water of finite depth, where the parametric spectral form is depth dependent and an extension of the deep water JONSWAP spectrum.