Journal ArticleDOI
Third-order approximation to short-crested waves
TLDR
In this paper, the variables of a short-crested wave system are derived to a third-order approximation by a perturbation method, under the assumption of full reflexion, uniform finite depth and an inviscid incompressible fluid.Abstract:
Short-crested wave systems, as produced by two progressive waves propagating at an oblique angle to each other, have an extremely important effect on a sedimentary bed. The complex water-particle motions are conducive to lifting material into suspension and sustaining it in motion. In order to study this phenomenon rigorously, the variables of this wave system are derived to a third-order approximation by a perturbation method. The case of waves reflecting obliquely from a vertical wall is examined under the assumptions of full reflexion, uniform finite depth and an inviscid incompressible fluid. The new formulation reduces to standing or Stokes waves at the limiting angles of approach. Expressions for kinematic quantities are also presented.read more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
Nonlinear gravity and capillary-gravity waves
Frédéric Dias,C. Kharif +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the bifurcation, stability, and evolution of gravity and capillary-gravity waves are discussed. And the importance of surface tension effects on steep waves is studied.
Book
Porous Models for Wave-seabed Interactions
TL;DR: In this article, a dynamic analysis for wave-induced seabed interactions is presented, showing that wave-driven seepage flux in Marine Sediments increases with the number of waves.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave-induced seabed instability in front of a breakwater
TL;DR: The wave-induced soil response in a porous seabed has become an important factor for the stability of offshore facilities, because many marine structures may have failed due to seabing instability and concomitant subsidence as discussed by the authors.
Journal ArticleDOI
Two-dimensional periodic waves in shallow water
TL;DR: In this article, the authors demonstrate the existence of a family of gravitational water waves that propagate practically without change of form on the surface of shallow water of uniform depth, i.e., they are periodic in two spatial directions and in time.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
Standing surface waves of finite amplitude
TL;DR: In this article, the surface profile, potential function, pressure and frequency of the motion are determined (to third order) as series in powers of the amplitude divided by the wavelength, and graphs of the surface profiles and of the pressure as a function of depth are included.
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An experimental note on finite-amplitude standing gravity waves
TL;DR: In this article, the frequency effect reversal appears to occur at a depth ratio of 0·14, somewhat less than the predicted ratio of0·17, and experimental confirmation of this prediction is reported together with estimates of the magnitude of the frequency effects at several depths.
Journal ArticleDOI
Limiting conditions for cnoidal and Stokes waves
TL;DR: In this article, it was shown that the limiting heights of cnoidal waves are also related to the vanishing of the pressure gradient near the wave crest, and the third approximation to Stokes waves in finite water depths was verified by the use of the classical small-perturbation expansion method which is best suited for small wave amplitudes.