Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2004"

TL;DR: The DELFT3D-FLOW module as discussed by the authors is a 3D flow solver for modeling sediment transport patterns in the water column of the DELFT-3D flow model, which is used to model both suspended and bedload transport of noncohesive sediment.

TL;DR: In this paper, a model for wave transformation on vegetation fields is presented, which includes wave damping and wave breaking over vegetation fields at variable depths, based on a nonlinear formulation of the drag force, either the transformation of monochromatic waves or irregular waves can be modeled considering geometric and physical characteristics of the vegetation field.

TL;DR: A set of criteria is proposed that identify the desirable attributes of statistical measures of the performance of coastal morphological models, and the attributes of the different performance measures are compared with the proposed desirable criteria, and those that match them best are selected.

TL;DR: In this paper, an analytical model is developed to calculate recession distance and eroded volume for coastal dunes during severe storms, where the transport relationship used in the model is based on wave impact theory, where individual swash waves hitting the dune face induce the erosion.

TL;DR: In this article, Liu et al. proposed a numerical model named COrnell BReaking waves And Structures (COBRAS) based on the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations to simulate the most relevant hydrodynamic near field processes that take place in the interaction between waves and low-crested breakwaters.

TL;DR: In this article, a new empirical equation is presented which characterises the time-dependent concentration profile in the sheet flow layer, and the dependence of both parameters on flow and bed conditions is analysed.

TL;DR: Wright et al. as mentioned in this paper developed a phenomenological scheme based on surf zone properties for the classification of the four intermediate beach states [low tide terrace (LTT), transverse bar rip (TBR), rhythmic bar beach (RBB), and longshore bar trough (LBT)] identified by Wright, L.D., Short, A.

TL;DR: In this paper, a wave run-up model for irregular and solitary waves on smooth, impermeable plane slopes is presented. But the model is not suitable for the case of nonperiodic waves.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors developed a simple new shoreline change model based on the general observation that the shoreline tends to approach an equilibrium position exponentially with time when subjected to constant forcing.

TL;DR: In this paper, velocities were measured using an ultrasonic velocity profiler (UVP) capable of measuring deep within the sheet flow layer and the results showed that the near-bed velocity leads the main flow velocity by approximately 21° and a small offshore-directed current is generated near the bed.

TL;DR: In this paper, an analytical model is developed for equilibrium bathymetric profiles off river mouths associated with the shoreward, convex upward portion of subaqueous deltas and clinoforms.

TL;DR: In this article, a simple method of determining n is presented using standard equations for the clear water settling velocity and the seepage flow within fixed sediment beds, and the resulting values for n are compared with values derived from new and existing laboratory data for beach and filter sands.

TL;DR: In this article, the vertical distribution of time-averaged cross-shore and alongshore flows during the Sandy Duck field experiment is compared with model predictions to assess the parameters governing the flow behaviour.

TL;DR: In this paper, high-resolution bathymetric surveys, carried out with the WESP, revealed that the shoreface nourishment resulted in a significant shoreward migration of the outer bar during 1999-2001.

TL;DR: In this article, the extremal properties of time series of significant wave height modelled by means of extreme value techniques are dealt with, where the limiting joint generalized extreme value distribution for the r largest-order statistic model is used to estimate return values of significantwave height.

TL;DR: In this article, a cyclone induced storm surge and flood forecasting system was developed for the northern Bay of Bengal by using statistical models for forecasting of the cyclone track and maximum wind speed, and an analytical cyclone model for generating cyclone wind and pressure fields.

TL;DR: In this article, the characteristics of wave transformation in terms of wave reflection, transmission, and dissipation coefficients are investigated for various combination of obstacle length a and height b. The authors proposed the integration of energy flux for the calculation of wave coefficients and derived a general integral energy equation that serves as the basis of calculating RTD coefficients.

TL;DR: In this paper, a set of model equations for water wave propagation is derived by piecewise integration of the primitive equations of motion through N arbitrary layers, within each layer, an independent velocity profile is determined.

TL;DR: In this paper, a two-dimensional multi-scale turbulence model is proposed to study breaking waves, which shows improving agreement with experimental measurements in terms of surface elevations, particle velocities, wave height distributions and undertow profiles.

TL;DR: In this article, a state-of-the-art process-based model is applied to hindcast the morphological development of a shoreface nourishment along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands.

TL;DR: Stive et al. as discussed by the authors focused on the prediction of the long-term morphological evolution of tidal basins due to human interventions and derived analytical results for an existing model, aggregated scale morphological interaction between a Tidal inlet and the adjacent coast.

TL;DR: The hydrodynamics around the mouth of the Teign estuary (UK) have been simulated using two coastal area numerical modelling systems in this article, where model performance statistics were calculated to assess the accuracy of the predictions of the measured currents at a number of locations around the estuary mouth.

TL;DR: In this paper, the traditional concept of radiation stress in water waves is extended to its vertical profile in a new technical way, and the definition of and calculation formulae for the vertical profile of radiation stresses are advanced.

TL;DR: In this paper, the morphodynamic boundary condition (MBC) was proposed to identify parametric limits that force dissipative or reflective beach conditions when new sediments are artificially placed on the beach (e.g., during beach nourishment programs).

TL;DR: In this article, a model is presented to simulate the long-term (decadal) evolution of microtidal spit-barrier systems, which is derived from the analysis of coastal processes taking place along the Trabucador-La Banya complex in the Ebro delta (Spanish Mediterranean coast).

TL;DR: In this paper, the maximum depth-integrated wave momentum flux (MSF) was proposed for characterizing the wave contribution to nearshore coastal processes on beaches and at coastal structures.

TL;DR: In this paper, a simple and innovative method to solve explicitly the dispersion equation for water waves over dissipative media is presented, based on the hypothesis that a small perturbation in the dissipation parameter, δφ, produces a small variation in the dimensionless wave number.

TL;DR: In this paper, the Fourier transform was used to separate incident and reflected higher harmonic waves using four or more spatially separated probes, and the results were compared with those obtained using the methods of Goda and Suzuki [Goda, Y., Suzuki, Y], 1976.

TL;DR: In this paper, the porosity of submerged breakwaters was investigated for non-breaking wave transformations and it was shown that porosity does affect wave transformation and its influence becomes significant as the heights of the models increase.

TL;DR: In this paper, a numerical model is presented to simulate the formation and evolution of intertidal bar morphology (dridges and runnels) using a sediment transport shape function, which is a mathematical formulation that expresses the sediment transport rate as a function of cross-shore location.