Journal ArticleDOI
Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes
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TLDR
In this paper, the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas were examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work.About:
This article is published in Ocean Engineering.The article was published on 2005-03-01. It has received 48 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Wave shoaling & Breaking wave.read more
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Parameterization of nearshore wave front slope
TL;DR: In this article, an empirical parameterization of wave front slope angle used in the characterization of shoaling and breaking waves in nearshore environment is presented, which is applicable to both the first and second breakpoints for regular wave breaking over sloping and barred beaches.
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Breaking characteristics and geometric properties of spilling breakers over slopes
TL;DR: In this paper, a two-phase flow CFD model based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with the level set method (LSM) and k−−-ω turbulence model is used to simulate spilling breakers over a sloping bed.
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Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves
Djamel Lakehal,Petar Liovic +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a large-eddy and interface simulation using an interface tracking-based multi-fluid flow solver is conducted to investigate the breaking of steep water waves on a beach of constant bed slope.
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Characteristics and profile asymmetry properties of waves breaking over an impermeable submerged reef
TL;DR: In this article, a 3D two-phase flow CFD model that solves the unsteady, incompressible Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations has been used to simulate breaking waves over an impermeable submerged reef.
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Breaking waves: review of characteristic relationships
TL;DR: The analysis of the water wave breaking phenomenon has been on-going for almost 150 years, and many research papers have been published approximating both the local geographic and geometric characteristics of breaking waves.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiments
Yoshimi Goda,Tasumasa Suzuki +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a technique to resolve the incident and reflected waves from the records of composite waves is presented, which is applicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves and is effective in the range outside the condition of the gauge spacing being even integer of half wavelength.
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Analysis of surf zone turbulence
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors analyzed the turbulent kinetic energy k under surf zone waves to show how k varies over depth, between breaker point and shoreline, and how k depends on the beach slope, finding that the variation of k over depth is remarkably weak, large values being measured a few percent of the depth above the bottom.
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Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction
Paul D. Komar,Michael K. Gaughan +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, a critical value for Yt> = H/h was used as a wave breaking criterion, where Hb and hb are respectively the wave breaker height and depth, and assuming conservation of the wave energy flux, one obtains 1/5 2 2/5 Hb = k g (TH) relating Hb to the wave period T and to the deep-water wave height H^.