Journal ArticleDOI
Second-order theory and setup in surface gravity waves: A comparison with experimental data
Alessandro Toffoli,Miguel Onorato,Alexander V. Babanin,Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen,A. R. Osborne,Jaak Monbaliu +5 more
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In this article, the second-order, three-dimensional, finite-depth wave theory is used to investigate the statistical properties of the surface elevation and wave crests of field data from Lake George, Australia.Abstract:
The second-order, three-dimensional, finite-depth wave theory is here used to investigate the statistical properties of the surface elevation and wave crests of field data from Lake George, Australia. A direct comparison of experimental and numerical data shows that, as long as the nonlinearity is small, the second-order model describes the statistical properties of field data very accurately. By low-pass filtering the Lake George time series, there is evidence that some energetic wave groups are accompanied by a setup instead of a setdown. A numerical study of the coupling coefficient of the second-order model reveals that such an experimental result is consistent with the second-order theory, provided directional spreading is included in the wave spectrum. In particular, the coupling coefficient of the second-order difference contribution predicts a setup as a result of the interaction of two waves with the same frequency but with different directions. This result is also confirmed by numerical...read more
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Rogue waves and their generating mechanisms in different physical contexts
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors introduce the concept of rogue waves, which is the name given by oceanographers to isolated large amplitude waves, that occur more frequently than expected for normal, Gaussian distributed, statistical events.
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Evolution of weakly nonlinear random directional waves: laboratory experiments and numerical simulations
Alessandro Toffoli,Odin Gramstad,Karsten Trulsen,Jaak Monbaliu,Elzbieta M. Bitner-Gregersen,Miguel Onorato +5 more
TL;DR: In this article, numerical simulations of nonlinear waves have been compared in order to assess the ability of numerical models to describe the evolution of weakly nonlinear wave and predict the probability of occurrence of extreme waves within a variety of random directional wave fields.
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On some consequences of the canonical transformation in the Hamiltonian theory of water waves
TL;DR: In this article, the authors derived general expressions for the second-order wavenumber and frequency spectrum and the skewness and the kurtosis of the sea surface for deep-water waves.
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Did the Draupner wave occur in a crossing sea
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the directionality of the Draupner wave and concluded it might have resulted from two wave-groups crossing, whose mean wave directions were separated by about 90° or more.
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Laboratory recreation of the Draupner wave and the role of breaking in crossing seas
TL;DR: In this article, the authors attempted to reproduce the full scaled crest amplitude and profile of the Draupner wave, including bound set-up, and found that the onset and type of wave breaking play a significant role and differ significantly for crossing and noncrossing waves.
References
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Book
Linear and Nonlinear Waves
TL;DR: In this paper, a general overview of the nonlinear theory of water wave dynamics is presented, including the Wave Equation, the Wave Hierarchies, and the Variational Method of Wave Dispersion.
Journal ArticleDOI
Linear and Nonlinear Waves
G. B. Whitham,T. C. T. Ting +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, a reference record was created on 2005-11-18, modified on 2016-08-08 and used for the purpose of ondes ; chocs ; onde de : choc reference record.
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Data Analysis Methods in Physical Oceanography
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Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications
TL;DR: The radiation stresses in water waves play an important role in a variety of oceanographic phenomena, for example in the change in mean sea level due to storm waves (wave set-up), the generation of "surf-beats", the interaction of waves with steady currents, and the steepening of short gravity waves on the crests of longer waves as discussed by the authors.