Journal ArticleDOI
Surface waves on vertically sheared flows: Approximate dispersion relations
James T. Kirby,Tsung-Muh Chen +1 more
TLDR
In this article, an approximate dispersion relation was developed to 0(e2) for arbitrary current U(z) in water of finite depth in linear wave theory for waves riding on a weak current of 0 e compared to the wave phase speed.Abstract:
Assuming linear wave theory for waves riding on a weak current of 0(e) compared to the wave phase speed, an approximate dispersion relation is developed to 0(e2) for arbitrary current U(z) in water of finite depth. The 0(e2) approximation is shown to be a significant improvement over the 0(e) result, in comparison with numerical and analytic results for the full problem. Various current profiles in the full range of water depths are considered. Comments on approximate action conservation and application to depth-averaged wave models are included.read more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
Development of a Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) Modeling System
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors developed a Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment Transport (COAWST) Modeling System, which is comprised of the Model Coupling Toolkit to exchange data fields between the ocean model ROMS, the atmosphere model WRF, the wave model SWAN, and the sediment capabilities of the Community Sediment Transport Model.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave Modelling - The State of the Art
Luigi Cavaleri,Jose Henrique G. M. Alves,Fabrice Ardhuin,Alexander V. Babanin,Michael L. Banner,Kostas Belibassakis,Michel Benoit,Mark A. Donelan,J. Groeneweg,T. H. C. Herbers,Paul A. Hwang,Peter A. E. M. Janssen,T. T. Janssen,I. V. Lavrenov,Rudy Magne,Jaak Monbaliu,Miguel Onorato,V. G. Polnikov,Donald T. Resio,W.E. Rogers,Alex Sheremet,J. McKee Smith,Hendrik L. Tolman,G.P. van Vledder,Judith Wolf,Ian R. Young +25 more
TL;DR: This paper tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems the authors presently face.
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave-current interaction within and outside the bottom boundary layer
TL;DR: In this article, the state-of-the-art as perceived by the Wave-Current Interaction (WCI) group which forms part of the MAST G6M Coastal Morphodynamics project, and includes some new results arising out of that project.
Journal ArticleDOI
The Three-Dimensional Current and Surface Wave Equations
TL;DR: In this article, the surface wave equations appropriate to 3D ocean models have been presented in the literature, and expressions for vertically dependent radiation stresses and a definition of the Doppler velocity for a vertically dependent current field are obtained.
Journal ArticleDOI
Observation and estimation of Lagrangian, Stokes and Eulerian currents induced by wind and waves at the sea surface
TL;DR: In this article, the surface current response to winds is analyzed in a 2-yr time series of a 12-MHz (HF) Wellen Radar (WERA) off the west coast of France.
References
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Book ChapterDOI
Interaction of Water Waves and Currents
TL;DR: In this article, the authors discuss the varied physical circumstances in which interactions among water waves and currents occur and different mathematical approaches, relevant observations, and experiments that are applicable to all or some of these physical circumstances are described.
Journal ArticleDOI
A variational principle for a fluid with a free surface
TL;DR: In this paper, the full set of equations of motion for the classical water wave problem in Eulerian co-ordinates is obtained from a Lagrangian function which equals the pressure.
Journal ArticleDOI
HF radio measurements of surface currents
Robert H. Stewart,Joseph W. Joy +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the authors measured ocean surface currents using both a conventional and the HF technique, and reasonable agreement was found with respect to the phase velocity of the wave in still water, c = √(g/k).
Journal ArticleDOI
Wave-current interactions: an experimental and numerical study, part 2 - nonlinear waves
TL;DR: In this article, a numerical model is constructed for use in the finite depth regime, extending the work of Dalrymple (1973, 1977) and this is used to predict the wavelength and the particle velocities under the waves.
Journal ArticleDOI
A note on linear surface wave‐current interaction over slowly varying topography
TL;DR: In this paper, a mild slope wave equation is derived which governs the propagation of linear surface waves in the presence of large ambient currents, and arguments for the validity of the new version in comparison to previous versions are presented.