Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2011"

TL;DR: In this article, a computational procedure has been developed for simulating non-hydrostatic, free-surface, rotational flows in one and two horizontal dimensions using SWASH.

TL;DR: The resulting integrated SWAN + ADCIRC system is highly scalable and allows for localized increases in resolution without the complexity or cost of nested meshes or global interpolation between heterogeneous meshes.

TL;DR: In this article, several clustering and selection algorithms: K-Means (KMA), self-organizing maps (SOM) and Maximum Dissimilarity (MDA) have been applied to analyze trivariate hourly time series of met-ocean parameters (significant wave height, mean period, and mean wave direction).

TL;DR: In this article, the authors evaluated the strengths and limitations of conventional, RTK-GPS and image-derived surveys for coastal monitoring at daily to decadal coastal time-scales.

TL;DR: In this article, a hybrid downscaling methodology to transfer wave climate to coastal areas has been developed combining a numerical wave model (dynamical down-scaling) with mathematical tools (statistical down scaling) to increase the spatial resolution and simulate the wave transformation process.

TL;DR: The main dependencies and sensitivities of the MORFAC approach to fundamental forcing conditions and model parameters are elucidated and a criterion based on the Courant–Friedrichs–Levy condition for bed form propagation that maybe used as a guide to determine the critical MORFac a priori is proposed.

TL;DR: In this paper, the Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler (ACVP) is used to measure benthic flow and sediment processes over a sandy ripple bed, and the results show the value of such instrumentation for studying the dynamical interaction between the bed, the flow and the sediments at and within the bottom boundary layer.

TL;DR: In this paper, a case study of Newport Beach, California, showed that tidal flooding can be resolved along streets and at individual parcels using a 2D hydraulic inundation model that captures embayment amplification of the tide, overtopping of flood defenses, and overland flow along streets.

TL;DR: In this paper, a double threshold is presented and justified, with objective tools for determining the high threshold, and sensitivity analyses are carried out with respect to a high threshold and to the duration of the dataset to estimate the robustness.

TL;DR: This article presented empirically derived values for biophysical attributes of several commonly occurring wetland plant species, including plant stem diameter and tapering, plant clump and stem spacing statistics, biomass, Young's modulus of elasticity, and bending strength.

TL;DR: In this article, the influence of long waves, bichromatic wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones has been investigated in large-scale laboratory data, and the authors suggest that the inclusion of long wave and wave group sediment transport is important for improved near-shore morphological modeling of cross-shore beach profile evolution.

TL;DR: In this paper, a wave generator capable of recreating scaled tsunami waves is presented, which allows for the first time the stable simulation of extremely long waves led either by a crest or a trough (depressed wave).

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors presented an update to the coupled model which implements a wave roller model and also a modified method of the radiation stress term based on Mellor (2008, 2011a,b,in press) that better simulates non-conservative (i.e., wave breaking) processes and appears to be more appropriate for sigma coordinates in very shallow waters where wave breaking conditions dominate.

TL;DR: In this paper, three radar deployments, off the west coast of Norway, Celtic Sea and Liverpool Bay using two different radar systems, WERA and Pisces, and different radio frequency ranges, are used to demonstrate the wave measurement capability of HF radar and illustrate the points made.

TL;DR: In this article, the SWAN model was used to predict the nearshore wave field caused by refraction over a steep, submarine canyon, and the predicted wave heights, mean directions, periods, and radiation stresses were compared with wave observations in 5.0-, 2.5-, and 1.0m water depths.

TL;DR: In this paper, an experimental study of the remote sensing of water wave elevations, through the application of stereo photogrammetry, is presented, which uses two spatially offset cameras, with overlapping fields of view, to determine water surface elevation.

TL;DR: In this article, high-frequency observations of beach face morphological change over numerous tidal cycles on a macrotidal sandy beach made using a large array of ultrasonic altimeters are presented.

TL;DR: In this article, a universal formula for the estimation of equilibrium scour depth around a single cylindrical pile under the action of steady currents, tidal and short waves is presented.

TL;DR: De Vos et al. as mentioned in this paper derived a static design formula to calculate the required stone size for a scour protection around a monopile foundation in a combined wave and current climate, based on the results of an experimental model study which is described in this paper.

TL;DR: In this article, three models (CROSMOR, UNIBEST-TC and DELFT3D) were used to simulate the flume experimental results focusing on the wave height distribution and the morphological development (erosion and deposition) along the beach profiles.

TL;DR: In this paper, the applicability of existing nonlinear (triad) spectral models for steep slopes (0.1 − 0.2) characteristic of reef environments was investigated, using both deterministic (phase-resolving) and stochastic (phased-averaged) formulations.

TL;DR: A new approach to the definition of loads for use in performance design of vertical coastal structures subject to breaking wave impacts is presented and predictions of static equivalent design loads and corresponding safety factor against sliding using the proposed methodology are found to be in very good agreement with both predictions by most established deterministic methods and field observations reported in literature.

TL;DR: In this paper, a database of hydrodynamic properties and suspended sediment concentration collected within the inner surf and swash zones aiming to improve the current understanding of the sediment dynamics occurring within the beach area closest to the shoreline.

TL;DR: In this article, a Bayesian-network model is used to provide accurate predictions of wave-height evolution in the surf zone given very sparse and/or inaccurate boundary-condition data, which is based on a formal treatment of a data-assimilation problem that takes advantage of significant reduction of the model system.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors describe detailed measurements of the time-varying distribution of void fractions generated by breaking waves in freshwater, artificial seawater and natural seawater under laboratory conditions, along with flow visualisation of the entrainment process.

TL;DR: In this article, the instantaneous turbulent velocity field created by the breaking of spilling regular waves on a plane slope was measured in a plane running parallel to the slope using particle image velocimetry.

TL;DR: In this paper, a virtual wave gauge (VWG) technique based on stereo imaging is developed to remotely measure waterwave height, period, and direction, which minimizes computational costs by directly tracking the elevation of the water surface at selected points of interest using a Eulerian-based dynamic searching algorithm.

TL;DR: In this article, the formation of beach megacusps along the shoreline of southern Monterey Bay, CA, was investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model.

TL;DR: In this article, the effect of wave damping on soliton disintegration and evolution along the step for both breaking and non-breaking solitary waves was investigated using Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations.

TL;DR: In this paper, a process-based modeling of wave motion on a permeable beach taking into account wave-aquifer interactions was conducted to investigate the effects of the unconfined coastal aquifer on beach profile evolution, and wave shoaling on the water table.