Cross‐shore sand transport by infragravity waves as a function of beach steepness
A. T. M. de Bakker,A. T. M. de Bakker,J. A. Brinkkemper,F. H. Van Der Steen,Marion Tissier,B.G. Ruessink +5 more
TLDR
In this paper, the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport was investigated using two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration.Abstract:
Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport. On the moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), the local ratio of infragravity wave height to sea-swell wave height is relatively small (HIG/HSW 0.4), most sand is suspended during negative infragravity velocities, and qIG is offshore directed. The infragravity contribution to the total sand flux is considerably larger and reaches up to ≈60% during energetic conditions. On the whole, HIG/HSW is a good indicator for the infragravity-related sand suspension mechanism and the resulting infragravity sand transport direction and relative importance.read more
Citations
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Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
Xavier Bertin,Anouk de Bakker,Ap van Dongeren,Giovanni Coco,Gaël André,Fabrice Ardhuin,Philippe Bonneton,Frédéric Bouchette,Bruno Castelle,Wayne C Crawford,Mark Davidson,Martha Deen,Guillaume Dodet,Thomas Guérin,Kris Inch,Fabien Leckler,Robert McCall,Héloïse Muller,Maitane Olabarrieta,Dano Roelvink,Gerben Ruessink,Damien Sous,Eléonore Stutzmann,Marion Tissier +23 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves, and three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone.
Journal ArticleDOI
Environmental and morphologic controls on wave-induced dune response
Nicholas Cohn,Peter Ruggiero,Gabriel García-Medina,Dylan Anderson,Katherine A. Serafin,Reuben G. Biel +5 more
TL;DR: In this paper, a relationship was found between morphologic characteristics and dune volume changes during storm events producing high water levels, and the model simulations indicated that wave-driven dune growth may occur on low sloping beaches in cases where the dynamic still water level (still water level plus wave setup) is lower than the dune toe.
Journal ArticleDOI
A novel machine learning algorithm for tracking remotely sensed waves in the surf zone
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used time-space images (timestacks) to detect white pixel intensity peaks generated by breaking waves and confirmed these peaks as true wave breaking events by learning from the data's true colour representation, clusters individual waves, and obtains optimal wave paths.
Journal ArticleDOI
Transfer and dissipation of energy during wave group propagation on a gentle beach slope
TL;DR: In this paper, the propagation of bichromatic wave groups over a constant 1:100 beach slope and the influence of the group modulation is presented, where modulation is controlled by varying the group frequency, fg, which is shown to remarkably affect the energy transfer to high and low frequency components.
References
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