Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2008"

TL;DR: In this paper, a Corrected Incompressible SPH (CISPH) method is proposed for accurate tracking of water surface in breaking waves, where corrective terms are derived based on a variational approach to ensure the angular momentum preservation of ISPH formulations.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors describe the results of a two-dimensional (2D) numerical modeling investigation of the functionality of rubble mound breakwaters with special attention focused on wave overtopping processes.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors used Kriebel and Dean's simple beach erosion and accretion model to quantitatively reproduce the extreme beach erosion volumes obtained from field measurements at Narrabeen Beach, Australia.

TL;DR: In this article, a numerical method for non-hydrostatic, free-surface, irrotational flow governed by the nonlinear shallow water equations including the effects of vertical acceleration is presented at the aim of studying surf zone phenomena.

TL;DR: In this paper, Houghton et al. presented a methodology to estimate the probability of future coastal flooding given uncertainty over possible sea level rise, using a Monte Carlo procedure to sample from this distribution and use the resulting values as an additional boundary forcing for a two-dimensional model of coastal inundation used to simulate a 1 in 200-year extreme water level event.

TL;DR: In this article, a wave hindcast using a fine grid in the North East Atlantic coastal areas of Europe is described, where the wind fields were obtained by a local area model that was applied in the areas adjacent to the European coasts, which was forced by the results of the NCEP reanalysis.

TL;DR: In this paper, a data-model assimilation method (called "Beach Wizard") is presented with which the nearshore subtidal bathymetry can be accurately estimated based on video-derived observations of wave roller dissipation and variation of the intertidal shoreline, and/or radar-derived observation of wave celerity.

TL;DR: Van Gent et al. as mentioned in this paper conducted large-scale physical model tests with different wave periods to examine the physical processes driving dune erosion, which revealed that both short and long waves are important to inner surf hydrodynamics.

TL;DR: In this article, an experimental program was performed to investigate the impact on two pipeline installation scenarios: (1) suspended pipeline and (2) laid-on-seafloor pipeline.

TL;DR: Van Thiel et al. as mentioned in this paper performed large-scale physical model tests to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion and concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger erosion volume and a larger landward retreat of the dune face.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors present new laboratory experiments carried out in a supertank (300m, 5m, 1.2m) of breaking solitary waves evolution on a 1:60 plane beach, where the measured data are employed to re-examine existing formulae that include breaking criterion, amplitude evolution and run-up height.

TL;DR: In this article, a set of 44-year (1958-2001) homogeneous and high-resolution hindcasts of atmospheric, sea level residuals, and wave states was performed for the Mediterranean Basin within the framework of the HIPOCAS European Project.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom.

TL;DR: In this paper, a new simple formula has been developed that relates the reflection coefficient to the breaker parameter and seems to fit all kinds of revetment materials by changing two coefficients.

TL;DR: In this paper, a technique is described to observe and quantify wave-by-wave bed-level changes in the swash zone, where ultrasonic instrument system is non-contact with the beach face surface being measured and sensors remain outside of the fluid flows causing sediment movement.

TL;DR: In this article, a number of existing models for surface wave phase speeds (linear and nonlinear, breaking and non-breaking waves) are reviewed and tested against phase speed data from a large-scale laboratory experiment.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors compare different parametric wave transformation models with extensive observations from six field experiments on barred and unbarred beaches and show that the default model provides the best predictions for all data records or at all experiments.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors considered the numerical simulation of nonlinear wave run-up within a highly accurate Boussinesq-type model and proposed a new variant of this approach in two horizontal dimensions.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors describe the development of a wave prediction system for the west Iberian coast based on two state-of-the-art spectral wave models, WAM for the ocean area and SWAN for the nearshore.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors presented wind wave fields' characteristics over the Baltic Sea obtained with the WAM model and their verification against observations, and a reasonable agreement between the modelled and observed both in-situ and satellite wave data was obtained.

TL;DR: In this article, the results of an experimental investigation on wave boundary layers over a bed with large roughness, simulating stone/rock/armour block cover on the sea bottom, were summarized.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors present results on wave loading acting on an innovative caisson breakwater for electricity production, which is based on the known principle of overtopping and storing the wave energy in several reservoirs placed one above the other.

TL;DR: In this paper, a numerical wave flume is used to investigate the discharge characteristics of combined overflow and wave overtopping of impermeable seawalls, and the results are used to determine empirical discharge formulae of the form used in current practice.

TL;DR: In this paper, a repetition of such a regional reanalysis was executed within the project for three areas, namely, the Irish Sea, the Northeast Atlantic south of the UK and including the Azores and Canary Islands and the Mediterranean Sea.

TL;DR: In this article, several shock capturing schemes are discussed for simulating bed level change with different accuracy and stability behaviors, and the conclusion is in favor of a fifth order Euler-WENO scheme which is introduced to sediment transport simulations here over other schemes.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors review recent theoretical studies of sand waves which are rhythmic large-scale bedforms observed in the continental shelf far from the near-shore region and discuss an analytical model which describes how the sand wave instability behaves when it is triggered locally; this leads to the generation, growth and expansion of a so-called sand wave packet.

TL;DR: In this article, the phase differences of irregular waves on a partially perforated caisson breakwater are investigated based on linear potential theory, and a simple semi-analytical solution of the present problem is developed by means of the matched eigenfunction method and the finite element method.

TL;DR: In this paper, the response to a shoreface nourishment of the two-bar system at Noordwijk (the Netherlands) is analyzed based on a daily data set of time-exposure video images collected during about 6 years, complemented with topographic and bathymetric surveys.

TL;DR: In this article, the authors quantify the temporal evolution of the crescentic patterns emerging in a double nearshore bar system in response to constant wave boundary forcing, and they hypothesize that morphological length scales in the field are rarely in equilibrium with the concurrent offshore wave height and angle of incidence owing to the slow response of the sandbars under constant conditions relative to the stochastic nature of natural wave forcing.

TL;DR: In this paper, the dynamic processes of bore propagation over a uniform slope are studied numerically using a 2-DReynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) solver, coupled with a non-linear k− turbulence closure and avolume of fluid (VOF) method.