Journal ArticleDOI
Wave-Breaking Model for Boussinesq-Type Equations Including Roller Effects in the Mass Conservation Equation
Rodrigo Cienfuegos,Rodrigo Cienfuegos,Eric Barthélemy,Eric Barthélemy,Philippe Bonneton,Philippe Bonneton +5 more
TLDR
In this article, the authors investigate the ability of a 1D fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness.Abstract:
We investigate the ability of a 1D fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative approach for wave-breaking parameterization including roller effects through diffusive-type terms on both, the mass conservation and momentum equations is developed and validated on regular wave and solitary wave experiments as an attempt to improve wave height and left-right asymmetry estimates. The new approach is able to reproduce wave height decay, and intraphase nonlinear properties within the entire surf zone of spilling breakers without requiring temporal evolution of model parameters.read more
Citations
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Journal ArticleDOI
Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model
TL;DR: In this article, the authors assume a hydrostatic pressure distribution at the front of a breaking wave, which ensures that the wave front develops a vertical face and conserves mass and momentum.
Journal ArticleDOI
A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model
TL;DR: The fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green-Naghdi model for shallow water waves of large amplitude is studied and gives a good account of all the processes of wave transformation in coastal areas: shoaling, wave breaking and run-up.
Journal ArticleDOI
A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models
TL;DR: In this article, a new method to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq-type models is presented, based on a reformulation of the set of governing equations (namely Serre Green-Naghdi equations) that allows us to split them into a hyperbolic part in the conservative form and a dispersive part.
Journal ArticleDOI
Recent advances in Serre-Green Naghdi modelling for wave transformation, breaking and runup processes
Philippe Bonneton,Eric Barthélemy,Florent Chazel,Rodrigo Cienfuegos,David Lannes,Fabien Marche,Marion Tissier +6 more
TL;DR: In this article, two high-order methods for solving S-GN equations, based on Finite Volume approaches, are presented, one is based on a quasi-conservative form of the SGN equations and the second on a hybrid Finite volume/Finite difference method.
Journal ArticleDOI
Boussinesq Models and Their Application to Coastal Processes across a Wide Range of Scales
TL;DR: In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
The runup of solitary waves
TL;DR: In this article, an approximate theory is presented for non-breaking waves and an asymptotic result is derived for the maximum runup of solitary waves on plane beaches, and a series of laboratory experiments is described to support the theory.
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Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking, and runup. ii: 2d
TL;DR: In this article, an extended Boussinesq model for surf zone hydrodynamics in two horizontal dimensions is implemented and verified using an eddy viscosity term.
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Mass flux and undertow in a surf zone
TL;DR: In this article, it was shown that the undertow is driven by the local difference between radiation stress and the set-up pressure gradient which only balance each other in average over the depth.
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Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone
TL;DR: In this paper, the mean flow and turbulence in a wave flume for a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker were studied, and the results indicated that there are fundamental differences in the dynamics of turbulence between spilling and plunging breakers, which can be related to the processes of wave breaking and turbulence production.
Journal Article
Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone
TL;DR: In this article, the mean flow and turbulence in a wave flume for a spilling breaker and a plunging breaker were studied, and the results indicated that there are fundamental differences in the dynamics of turbulence between spilling and plunging breakers, which can be related to the processes of wave breaking and turbulence production.