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Showing papers in "Coastal Engineering in 2018"


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a machine learning framework is developed to estimate ocean-wave conditions by supervised training of machine learning models on many thousands of iterations of a physics-based wave model, accurate representations of significant wave heights and period can be used to predict ocean conditions.

194 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors presented a new and generic method for automated shoreline detection from the largely unexplored collection of publicly available satellite imagery, which is tested for accuracy for 143 images against high resolution in-situ data along a coastal stretch near the Sand Motor.

95 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a projection-based (or Incompressible) SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics) method is presented for simulation of fluid flow interactions with porous media.

93 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, an integrated framework of Extreme Learning Machines (ELM) was developed to predict local scour depth around pile groups in clear water, and the results indicated that ELM outperformed the existing methods with a high level of accuracy.

89 citations



Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a buoyancy-modified turbulence model is proposed to simulate wave breaking in a numerical wave flume, where the density of the turbulent energy is explicitly included in the turbulence transport equations and the buoyancy term is added to the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) equation.

72 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the hydrodynamic performance of a fixed Oscillating Water Column (OWC) device is experimentally and numerically investigated based on the time-domain higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM).

71 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: This study is focused on capturing asymmetric dependencies among the environmental parameters, which are critical for a realistic description of ocean conditions, which involves particular attention to both nonlinear and asymmetrically dependent variates, which is quite common for the ocean variables.

68 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a simple dune impact model forced with local alongshore-variable inshore wave modelling was found to successfully predict up to 85% of the observed alongshore variability in dune erosion at this site, with this erosion tidally modulated over the 6 days to time periods when the waves were directly impacting the dune.

62 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a parametric study of surface wave effects on storm surge and coastal inundation is presented, showing that the presence of waves can increase the maximum storm surge heights significantly through wave setup, and the contribution of waves varies considerably depending on the storm characteristics.

62 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors describe 2D numerical simulations of velocity and pressure fields generated by non-breaking waves on a vertical breakwater with a recurved parapet wall.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the performance of a selection of offshore wave energy converters (WECs) is assessed all along the Mediterranean coastline (at 10 km resolution), on the basis of a 37-year hindcasted wave data and public WEC performance data.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a two-way coupling methodology for wave propagation and wave-structure interaction with SPH is presented, which consists of combining a fast, fully non-linear wave propagation model, OceanWave3D, with an accurate Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) solver, DualSPHysics.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors applied the short-wave resolving, nonhydrostatic (XB-NH) and shortwave averaged, Surfbeat (Xb-SB) modes of the XBeach numerical model to validate run-up using data from two 1D (alongshore uniform) fringing-reef profiles without roughness elements, with two objectives: i) to provide insight into the physical processes governing runup in such environments; and ii) to evaluate the performance of both modes in accurately predicting runup over a wide range of conditions.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the effect of two different damping mechanisms of a floating breakwater was analyzed in 2D and three basic cross-sections of breakwaters were tested and analyzed in two-dimensional (2D) space.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the failure probability of a hybrid flood defense, integrating models and stochastic parameters that describe dike failure and wave propagation over a vegetated foreshore, is analyzed.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, two-dimensional in the horizontal plane (2DH) morphodynamic simulations were conducted to assess morphodynamic sensitivity to spatially varying bed friction at Dauphin Island, AL using hurricanes Ivan (2004) and Katrina (2005) as experimental test cases.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a continuity-based profile translation model is applied to both idealised and measured shoreface profiles, and is used to predict overwash and deposition volumes above the shoreline.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the sensitivity of surge predictions to forecast uncertainties in the track and strength of a storm (storm strength is quantified by the power dissipation of the associated wind field) was examined using Hurricane Arthur (2014), a Category 2 hurricane, which made landfall along the North Carolina (NC) coast in early July 2014.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, four southern California beaches were nourished with offshore sand placed as subaerial pads several meters thick, ∼ 50m wide, and spanning between 500 and 1500m alongshore.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the wave-induced soil response and liquefaction risk around a hexagonal gravity-based offshore foundation is investigated by applying an integrated multiphysics model developed in the finite volume method (FVM) based OpenFOAM framework.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors show that the numerically fast, open source numerical model 1D SWASH predicts accurately the bulk properties of runup observed on two natural beaches (one steep and one shallow sloped) for a range of incident wave conditions.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the performance of a linear depth inversion algorithm, cBathy, applied to coastal video imagery was assessed using observations of water depth from vessel-based hydrographic surveys and in-situ altimeters for a wide range of wave conditions (0.3

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the morphodynamic impacts of the Deepwater Navigation Channel Project (DNCP) during 1997-2013 are investigated through process-based modeling approach (Delft3D) and bathymetric data analysis.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors investigated the intensity of the load applied by non-breaking waves on the recurved parapet wall of vertical breakwaters under both regular and irregular waves.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the effects of Hurricane Sandy (2012) on salt marsh morphology in Jamaica Bay were examined using the Delft3D modeling suite, and the results indicated that the island-wide morphological changes in the bay's salt marshes due to Sandy were in the range of −30mm (erosion) to +15mm (deposition), and spatially complex and heterogeneous.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors present an experimental study of the tsunami-induced scour process around a monopile foundation, representative of those commonly used for offshore wind farms, by subjecting the monopile to a time varying current, which enables a properly downscaled experiment from the boundary layer and scour perspective.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the wave-induced scour around piles in a side-by-side arrangement using the open-source CFD model REEF3D is modeled using the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: A BN to predict shoreline recession caused by coastal storm events is developed and tested using an extensive 10-year dataset incorporating 137 individual storms events monitored at Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach, Australia, to demonstrate the differences between predictive and descriptive BNs.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a numerical study of ship-induced bores is carried out with a focus on soliton generation in different supercritical regimes, and the transition from breaking solitons to a pure bore measured in Gourlay's (2001) laboratory experiments.