Journal ArticleDOI
Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound
TLDR
In this paper, the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound was studied in a controlled laboratory experiment, where a directional spectral wave generation was used to generate waves with equal peak frequencies and spectral energy.Abstract:
The transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound was studied in a controlled laboratory experiment. A directional spectral wave generation was used to generate waves with equal peak frequencies and spectral energy, along with monochromatic waves of equivalent significant height and period. Spectra with both narrow and broad frequency and directional spreads were generated. Results indicate that monochromatic waves provide a poor approximation of irregular wave conditions if there is directional spread or high wave steepness.read more
Citations
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Phase-decoupled refraction¿diffraction for spectral wave models
TL;DR: In this paper, a phase-decoupled refraction-diffraction approximation is proposed to accommodate diffraction in spectral wave models, which is expressed in terms of the directional turning rate of the individual wave components in the two-dimensional wave spectrum.
Journal ArticleDOI
A two-layer approach to wave modelling
TL;DR: In this article, a set of model equations for water wave propagation is derived by piecewise integration of the primitive equations of motion through two arbitrary layers and an independent velocity profile is derived.
Journal ArticleDOI
A comparative review on the functional forms of directional wave spectrum
TL;DR: In this article, the JONSWAP, Wallops, and TMA wave spectra were compared as the functions of significant wave height and sigmoid wave height, respectively.
Journal ArticleDOI
Multi-directional random wave transformation model based on energy balance equation
TL;DR: In this article, the authors developed a prediction model for multi-directional random wave transformation, which is based on an energy balance equation with an energy dissipat-tation.
Journal ArticleDOI
On the developments of spectral wave models: numerics and parameterizations for the coastal ocean
Aron Roland,Fabrice Ardhuin +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors used the WAVEWATCH III R model for coastal applications, including coupling with ocean circulation models, and achieved state-of-the-art accuracy at the French Atlantic and Channel coast.
References
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Journal ArticleDOI
Similarity of the wind wave spectrum in finite depth water: 1. Spectral form
TL;DR: In this article, a self-similar spectral shape (the TMA spectrum) was proposed to describe wind waves in water of finite depth, where the parametric spectral form is depth dependent and an extension of the deep water JONSWAP spectrum.
Journal ArticleDOI
Verification of numerical wave propagation models for simple harmonic linear water waves
TL;DR: In this article, three models, indicated as the refraction model, the parabolic refraction-diffraction model and the full refractiondiffraction models, are briefly described, together with a comparison of the computational results of these models with measurements in a hydraulic scale model.
Journal ArticleDOI
Refraction-diffraction model for linear water waves
TL;DR: In this article, a numerical model is presented that predicts the transformation of monochromatic waves over complex bathymetry and includes both refractive and diffractive effects, and the solution is obtained for a finite number of rectilinear grid cells that comprise the domain of interest.
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Significant Wave Height for Shallow Water Design
TL;DR: In this article, a simple empirical method is developed to relate statistical and energy based significant wave height estimates with CERC laboratory flume data from a 1:30 plane slope, two samples of field data, and stream function wave theory.