scispace - formally typeset
Search or ask a question

Showing papers on "Breakwater published in 2019"


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In a time span of over 3,000 years, the function of harbor breakwaters has remained the same (i.e., the energy dissipation), with differences depending on the general breakwater configurat...
Abstract: In a time span of over 3,000 years, the function of harbor breakwaters has remained the same (i.e., the energy dissipation), with differences depending on the general breakwater configurat...

69 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: It is shown that breakwater oyster reefs can reduce erosion, trap suspended sediment, and support seaward saltmarsh expansion demonstrating the potential as a nature-based solution for protecting the subtropical coastlines.
Abstract: Oyster reefs have the potential as eco-engineers to improve coastal protection. A field experiment was undertaken to assess the benefit of oyster breakwater reefs to mitigate shoreline erosion in a monsoon-dominated subtropical system. Three breakwater reefs with recruited oysters were deployed on an eroding intertidal mudflat at Kutubdia Island, the southeast Bangladesh coast. Data were collected on wave dissipation by the reef structures, changes in shoreline profile, erosion-accretion patterns, and lateral saltmarsh movement and related growth. This was done over four seasons, including the rainy monsoon period. The observed wave heights in the study area ranged 0.1–0.5 m. The reefs were able to dissipate wave energy and act as breakwaters for tidal water levels between 0.5–1.0 m. Waves were totally blocked by the vertical relief of the reefs at water levels <0.5 m. On the lee side of the reefs, there was accretion of 29 cm clayey sediments with erosion reduction of 54% as compared to control sites. The changes caused by the deployed reefs also facilitated seaward expansion of the salt marsh. This study showed that breakwater oyster reefs can reduce erosion, trap suspended sediment, and support seaward saltmarsh expansion demonstrating the potential as a nature-based solution for protecting the subtropical coastlines.

55 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
19 Aug 2019-Water
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the sediment transport and erosion-deposition patterns in the locality of a detached low-crested breakwater protecting the cohesive shore of Carey Island, Malaysia.
Abstract: Understanding the dynamics of sediment transport and erosion-deposition patterns in the locality of a coastal structure is vital to evaluating the performance of coastal structures and predicting the changes in coastal dynamics caused by a specific structure. The nearshore hydro-morphodynamic responses to coastal structures vary widely, as these responses are complex functions with numerous parameters, including structural design, sediment and wave dynamics, angle of approach, slope of the coast and the materials making up the beach and structures. This study investigated the sediment transport and erosion-deposition patterns in the locality of a detached low-crested breakwater protecting the cohesive shore of Carey Island, Malaysia. The data used for this study were collected from field measurements and secondary sources from 2014 to 2015. Sea-bed elevations were monitored every two months starting from December 2014 to October 2015, in order to quantify the sea-bed changes and investigate the erosion-deposition patterns of the cohesive sediment due to the existence of the breakwater. In addition, numerical modelling was also performed to understand the impacts of the breakwater on the nearshore hydrodynamics and investigate the dynamics of fine sediment transport around the breakwater structure. A coupled two-dimensional hydrodynamics-sediment transport model based on Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations and cell-centered finite volume method with flexible meshing approach was adopted for this study. Analysis of the results showed that the detached breakwater reduced both current speed and wave height behind the structure by an average of 0.12 m/s and 0.1 m, respectively. Also, the breakwater made it possible for trapped suspended sediment to settle in a sheltered area by approximately 8 cm in height near to the first main segment of the breakwater, from 1 year after its construction. The numerical results were in line with the field measurements, where sediment accumulations were concentrated in the landward area behind the breakwater. In particular, sediment accumulations were concentrated along the main segments of the breakwater structure during the Northeast (NE) season, while concentration near the first main segment of the breakwater were recorded during the Southwest (SW) season. The assessment illustrated that the depositional patterns were influenced strongly by the variations in seasonal hydrodynamic conditions, sediment type, sediment supply and the structural design. Detached breakwaters are rarely considered for cohesive shores; hence, this study provides new, significant benefits for engineers, scientists and coastal management authorities with regard to seasonal dynamic changes affected by a detached breakwater and its performance on a cohesive coast.

43 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a model to estimate forces acting on an oscillating water column (OWC) chamber in a caisson breakwater is proposed, where horizontal forces on the front (curtain) wall and the rear (in-chamber) wall are predicted.

42 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors show coastal evolution along the Andalusia Region (Spain) and the impacts on it of coastal structures using the DSAS extension of ArcGIS software.
Abstract: This paper shows coastal evolution along the Andalusia Region (Spain) and the impacts on it of coastal structures. The study area was divided into 47 units to calculate the erosion/accretion/stability (or evolution) rates by using the DSAS extension of ArcGIS software. Evolution rates were divided into different classes from “Very high accretion” to “Very high erosion”. As a result, 9 units recorded accretion, 19 stability and 19 erosion. Further, 17 units presented a positive balance and 28 units a negative one, showing a negative net balance of 29,738.4 m2/year corresponding to the loss of 1784.30 km2 of beach surface in the 1956–2016 period. The distribution of evolution areas along the studied coast was carried out by means of the “R” project for statistical computing. The analysis evidenced the impact of rigid structures: accretion was essentially observed up-drift of ports and groins and in correspondence of protection structures, especially of breakwaters. Erosion classes were observed down-drift of ports and groins and in correspondence of revetments/seawalls, and at largest river deltas, and “stability” was observed at pocket beaches and coastal areas locally stabilized by protection structures. Last, results were used to determine the distribution of swash- and drift-aligned coastal sectors and main direction of sedimentary transport.

33 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, an experimental study was carried out to assess the performance of a hybrid wave energy converter (WEC) integrated in the rubble-mound structure that was proposed for the extension of the North breakwater of the Port of Leixoes, Portugal.
Abstract: Sea ports are infrastructures with substantial energy demands and often responsible for air pollution and other environmental problems, which may be minimized by using renewable energy, namely electricity harvested from ocean waves. In this regard, a wide variety of concepts to harvest wave energy are available and some shoreline technologies are already in an advanced development phase. The SE@PORTS project aims to assess the suitability and viability of existing wave energy conversion technologies to be integrated in harbor breakwaters, in order to take advantage of their high exposure to ocean waves. This paper describes the experimental study carried out to assess the performance of a hybrid wave energy converter (WEC) integrated in the rubble-mound structure that was proposed for the extension of the North breakwater of the Port of Leixoes, Portugal. The hybrid concept combines the overtopping and the oscillating water column principles and was tested on a geometric scale of 1/50. This paper is focused on the assessment of the effects of the hybrid WEC integration on the case-study breakwater, both in terms of its stability and functionality. The 2D physical model included the reproduction of the seabed bathymetry in front of the breakwater and the generation of a wide range of irregular sea states, including extreme wave conditions. The experimental results shown that the integration of the hybrid WEC in the breakwater does not worsens the stability of its toe berm blocks and reduces the magnitude of the overtopping events. The conclusions obtained are therefore favorable to the integration of this type of devices on harbor breakwaters.

33 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a 3D numerical wave tank based on the boundary element method is developed to investigate the wave field around a parabolic breakwater, where a truncated circular cylinder is placed at the focus position of each parabolic opening in front of the breakwater.

29 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the wave loads on crest walls and wave overtopping discharges have been measured under oblique wave attack and design guidelines have been developed to take the reduction due to oblique waves into account.

26 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a winged box-type floating breakwater is proposed and Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics is applied to simulate the nonlinear interactions between the waves and winged boxes.

25 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors investigated the effect of three-dimensional interactions of obliquely incident waves and breakwaters on wave potential energy reduction based on the proposed energy transmission coefficient.

22 citations


Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors focused on long-term coastal erosion analysis of the entire Karnataka coast using Remote Sensing, Geographical Information System (GIS), Linear Regression Rate (LRR), and End Point Rate (EPR) techniques.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the effects of submerged berms on the incident waves transformation have been evaluated by means of a phase resolving numerical model for simulating non-hydrostatic, free-surface, rotational flows.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the inclusions of a berm to reduce wave reflection, the shape of the sloping plate to maximise wave overtopping and the reservoir width and the crown wall shape to maximize wave energy capture while keeping the harbor safety were analyzed to optimize the hydraulic and structural performances of the device.
Abstract: OBREC is the acronym that stands for Overtopping Breakwater for Energy Conversion. It is a multifunctional device aimed to produce energy from the waves, while keeping the harbour area protected from flooding. In this paper, the inclusions of a berm to reduce wave reflection, the shape of the sloping plate to maximise wave overtopping and the reservoir width and the crown wall shape to maximise wave energy capture while keeping the harbour safety were analysed to optimize the hydraulic and structural performances of the device. Several configurations were numerically investigated by means of a 2DV RANS-VOF code to extend the results already obtained during previous experimental campaigns. The wave reflection coefficient, the average wave overtopping flows and the wave loadings along the structure are computed, compared with existing formulae and discussed with reference to the OBREC prototype installed in the Port of Naples.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, a 2D numerical wave tank is built in which the simulations are conducted using computational fluid dynamics (CFD) approach, while a strong-coupled fluid-structure interaction (FSI) algorithm is applied to consider the hydroelastic effects.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the response of a composite breakwater against wave load is numerically investigated using Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamic (SPH) model and a new scheme free of any tuning parameter is introduced to estimate the dynamic friction forces transitionally applied to the moving caisson.

Journal ArticleDOI
01 Jan 2019
TL;DR: The first beach nourishment project in Sri Lanka was carried out in 2012 over a 1.8km stretch in the Uswetakeiyawa area by the Coast Conservation Department as mentioned in this paper.
Abstract: The first beach nourishment project in Sri Lanka was carried out in 2012 over a 1.8-km stretch in the Uswetakeiyawa area by the Coast Conservation Department. About 300,000 m3 of offshore sand in the Indian Ocean was pumped using a dredging vessel for the nourishment. Three breakwaters were constructed nearly 1 year after the beach nourishment. This research was carried out to analyze the performance of the above soft and hard engineering coastal protection strategies. Beach profiles and grain size data were collected over a 1-year period. This monitoring program covered entire seasonal cycles with a comparison to the pre-nourishment beach profiles. Satellite images were also analyzed spanning much larger time periods from 2010 to 2015. Beach profile data indicated both sand accretion and erosion in the nourished area. However, the variations of sand deposition showed enhancement of the sand volume. Satellite images indicated the irregular changes of the beach profiles after the construction of breakwaters. The field observations and calculated relationships of the breakwaters demonstrated either subdued salient or gap erosion at the specific locations of the nourished beach. In this study, no permanent or periodic tombolo formations were observed at Uswetakeiyawa beach. The lack of sediment supply from longshore currents and the high-energy cross-shore monsoon currents can enhance coastal erosion related to the presence of the breakwater.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors proposed a new method to estimate the overtopping layer thickness (OLT) and flow velocity (OFV) on mound breakwater crests during extreme over-topping events, based on 123 2D small-scale physical tests of conventional lowcrested mound breakwaters with a single-layer Cubipod® and double-layer rock and cube armors.

Journal ArticleDOI
16 Oct 2019-PLOS ONE
TL;DR: The rapid evolution of a highly human-impacted tidal inlet, studied through repeated high-resolution multibeam surveys and repeatable geomorphometric analysis is described, documenting the rapid change induced by new hard coastal structures built to protect the historical city of Venice.
Abstract: Tidal inlets are extremely dynamic environments that are often strongly modified by anthropogenic intervention. In this study, we describe the rapid evolution of a highly human-impacted tidal inlet, studied through repeated high-resolution multibeam surveys and geomorphometric analysis. We document the rapid change induced by new hard coastal structures built to protect the historical city of Venice (Italy). A new breakwater erected between 2011 and 2013 induced the formation of large scour holes with the consequent erosion of about 170 · 103 ± 15.6% m3 of sediment until 2016. The construction of a new island in the middle of the inlet and the restriction of the inlet channel caused a general change of the inlet sedimentary regime from depositional to erosive with a net sediment loss of about 612 · 103 ± 42.7% m3, a reduction of the dune field area by more than 50% in about five years, and a coarsening in the sediment distribution. Our results give new insight on the tidal inlet resilience to changes, distinguishing two different phases in its recent evolution: (i) a very rapid response (from 2011 to 2013) of the seafloor morphology with scour-hole erosion at the new breakwater tips at a rate of about 45⋅103 m3/year and the disappearing of dune fields at a rate of 104⋅103 m2/year; and (ii) a general slowdown of the erosive processes from 2013 to 2016. Nevertheless, the erosion continues at the breakwater, though at a reduced rate, possibly representing a threat to the hard structure. In view of global mean sea level rise and consequent proliferation of hard structures along the coast all over the world, the combined use of very high resolution multibeam surveys and repeatable geomorphometric analysis proposed in this study will be crucial for the monitoring and future management of coastal environments.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, random wave CFD experiments have been carried out to study the loading process on a sloping top caisson breakwater subject to significant overtopping, and the results suggest that since wave force under crest is reduced by the overpassing, wave pressures under trough become comparatively larger, leading the structure to fail seaward even in absence of violent impact events.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a wave-flume experiment investigating the scour induced by solitary waves at a pile breakwater, which consists of a row of closely spaced large piles, was designed to eliminate possible multiple reflections of the solitary wave inside the flume.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a physically based correction of the Walkden et al. theory has been proposed, which allows to get reasonable estimates of the pressure impulse under both standing and breaking waves.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the applicability of an extended Boussinesq-type model in simulating wave propagation over submerged porous breakwaters, as well as predicting the velocity distribution inside them was studied.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the authors used a time and depth-averaged morphodynamic model to investigate the impact of the implementation of a submerged breakwater on surf zone sandbar dynamics at the beach of Sete, SE France.
Abstract: Coastal defense strategies based on structures are increasingly unpopular as they are costly, leave lasting scars on the landscape, and sometimes have limited effectiveness or even adverse impacts. While a clear improvement concerning aesthetic considerations using soft submerged breakwater is undeniable, their design has often focused on wave transmission processes across the crest of the structure, overlooking short- to medium-term morphodynamic responses. In this study, we used a time- and depth-averaged morphodynamic model to investigate the impact of the implementation of a submerged breakwater on surf zone sandbar dynamics at the beach of Sete, SE France. The hydrodynamic module was calibrated with data collected during a field experiment using three current profilers deployed to capture rip-cell circulation at the edge of the structure. The model showed good agreement with measurements, particularly for the longshore component of the flow (RMSE = 0.07 m/s). Results showed that alongshore differential wave breaking at the edge of the submerged breakwater drove an intense (0.4 m/s) two-dimensional circulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. Simulations indicated that inner-bar rip channel development, which was observed prior to the submerged reef implementation, was inhibited in the lee of the structure as rip-cell circulation across the inner bar disappeared owing to persistently low-energy breaking waves. The cross-shore sandbar dynamics in the lee of the structure were also impacted due to the drastic decrease of the offshore-directed flow over the inner-bar during energetic events. This paper highlights that implementation of a submerged breakwater results in larges changes in nearshore hydrodynamics that, in turn, can affect overall surf zone sandbar behavior.

Journal ArticleDOI
01 Feb 2019
TL;DR: In this paper, the scattering of obliquely incident waves by a submerged pile-rock breakwater is examined, which consists of two rows of closely spaced piles and a rock core between them.
Abstract: This study examines the scattering of obliquely incident waves by a submerged pile–rock breakwater, which consists of two rows of closely spaced piles and a rock core between them. Based on linear ...

Journal ArticleDOI
27 Mar 2019-Water
TL;DR: In this paper, the performance of low-crested detached breakwaters (LCDBs) deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze-dominated beach is investigated.
Abstract: Low-crested detached breakwaters (LCDBs) have been widely employed as a mitigation measure against beach erosion. However, only a few studies have assessed their performance in sea-breeze-dominated environments. This work investigates the beach morphodynamics behind LCDBs deployed on a micro-tidal sea-breeze-dominated beach. The study area, located in the northern Yucatan peninsula, is characterized by low-energy, high-angle waves, which drive a persistent (westward) alongshore sediment transport (O(104) m3/year). High-resolution real-time kinematics global positioning system (GPS) beach surveys were conducted over a one-year period (2017–2018) to investigate the performance of LCDBs at three sites. Moreover, unmanned aerial vehicle flights were employed to evaluate far-field shoreline stability. Field observations revealed a distinct behavior in the three study sites, dependent on the breakwaters’ transmission characteristics, geometry, stability, and shoreline orientation. Impermeable LCDBs, made of sand-filled geosystems, induced significant beach accretion (erosion) in up-(down-)drift areas. On the other hand, permeable LCDBs, made of Reef Ball™ modules, induced moderate beach changes and small erosion in down-drift areas owing to higher transmission coefficients. Measurements of LCDBs’ freeboard height show that sand-filled geosystems’ breakwaters presented a significant loss of sand during the study period, which explains the unexpected beach morphodynamic response on the lee side of the structure. Observations suggest that the study area is highly sensitive to the presence of LCDBs with low transmissivity.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors performed two-dimensional hydraulic experiments to analyze the hydrodynamic characteristics of wave height, surface elevation, and flow around single submerged breakwater with a drainage channel under regular waves corresponding to storm and normal conditions.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, a preliminary experimental study on the hydrodynamic behaviors of double-row floating breakwaters is carried out in a wave flume under regular wave action, where the floating breakwater chosen as the experimental subject is a dual rectangular pontoon floating sink.
Abstract: A preliminary experimental study on the hydrodynamic behaviors of double-row floating breakwaters is carried out in a wave flume under regular wave action. The floating breakwater chosen as the experimental subject is a dual rectangular pontoon floating breakwater. The hydrodynamic behaviors of the floating breakwater are validated through the calculation of the wave transmission coefficients, the wave reflection coefficients, the motion responses of the floating breakwaters and the mooring forces for different waves and structural parameters. The dynamic responses of single-row floating breakwater as a control group are also examined in the present experiments. The results indicate that double-row floating breakwaters significantly reduces the transmission coefficients as compared with single-row floating breakwater, especially for short-period wave, which is attributed to dissipation caused by eddies and moon-pool effect. However, the reflection performance is almost identical between two types. It is also found that the motion responses of the single-row and double-row floating breakwaters are similar. Spacing distance between double-row floating breakwaters has a significant influence on the windward mooring tension of the model at the upstream location, which always keeps the largest level in all mooring forces.

Journal ArticleDOI
01 Nov 2019
TL;DR: In this article, a wave energy converter-type breakwater equipped with dual pontoon power take-off system is proposed to broaden the effe cience of a single pontoon breakwater.
Abstract: As an extension of the single pontoon wave energy converter–type breakwater, a wave energy converter–type breakwater equipped with dual pontoon–power take-off system is proposed to broaden the effe...

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: Based on the wave radiation and diffraction theory, a new type breakwater with upper arc-shaped plate by using the boundary element method (BEM) has been investigated in this article.
Abstract: Based on the wave radiation and diffraction theory, this paper investigates a new type breakwater with upper arc-shaped plate by using the boundary element method (BEM). By comparing with other three designs of plate type breakwater (lower arc-shaped plate, single horizontal plate and double horizontal plate), this new type breakwater has been proved more effective. The wave exiting force, transmission and reflection coefficients are analyzed and discussed. In order to reveal the wave elimination mechanism of this type of breakwater, the velocity field around the breakwater is obtained. It is shown that: (1) The sway exciting force is minimal. (2) When the ratio of the submergence and wave amplitude is 0.05, the wave elimination effect will increase by 50% compared with other three types of breakwater. (3) The obvious backflow is found above the plate in the velocity field analysis.

Journal ArticleDOI
TL;DR: In this article, the effects of the geometrical features of submerged dike on hydrodynamic characteristics around the breakwater were investigated using a high-order finite-difference model solving Navier-Stokes (N-S) equations.
Abstract: In this study, solitary waves passing over a submerged breakwater are investigated both experimentally and numerically. A total of 9 experimental conditions are carried out, including different incident wave heights and water depths. Numerical simulations are performed using a high-order finite-difference model solving Navier-Stokes (N-S) equations. The predicted water wave elevation, velocity and pressure show good agreement with experimental data, verifying the accuracy and capacity of the numerical model. Furthermore, parametric studies are conducted by numerical modelling to examine the effects of the geometrical features of submerged dike on hydrodynamic characteristics around the breakwater.