Showing papers on "Wave flume published in 2017"

Wind generated rogue waves in an annular wave flume

Abstract: We investigate experimentally the statistical properties of a wind-generated wave field and the spontaneous formation of rogue waves in an annular flume. Unlike many experiments on rogue waves where waves are mechanically generated, here the wave field is forced naturally by wind as it is in the ocean. What is unique about the present experiment is that the annular geometry of the tank makes waves propagating circularly in an unlimited-fetch condition. Within this peculiar framework, we discuss the temporal evolution of the statistical properties of the surface elevation. We show that rogue waves and heavy-tail statistics may develop naturally during the growth of the waves just before the wave height reaches a stationary condition. Our results shed new light on the formation of rogue waves in a natural environment.

Large‐eddy simulation of wave‐breaking induced turbulent coherent structures and suspended sediment transport on a barred beach

Abstract: To understand the interaction between wave-breaking induced turbulent coherent structures and suspended sediment transport, we report a Large-Eddy Simulation (LES) study of wave breaking processes over a near-prototype scale barred beach. The numerical model is implemented using the open-source CFD toolbox, OpenFOAM®, in which the incompressible three-dimensional filtered Navier-Stokes equations for the water and air phases are solved with a finite volume scheme. A Volume of Fluid (VOF) method is used to capture the evolution of the water-air interface. The numerical model is validated with measured free surface elevation, turbulence averaged flow velocity, turbulent intensity, and for the first time, the intermittency of breaking wave turbulence. Simulation results confirm that as the obliquely descending eddies (ODEs) approach the bottom, significant bottom shear stress is generated. Remarkably, the collapse of ODEs onto the bed can also cause drastic spatial and temporal changes of dynamic pressure on the bottom. By allowing sediment to be suspended from the bar crest, intermittently high sediment suspension events and their correlation with high turbulence and/or high bottom shear stress events are investigated. The simulated intermittency of sediment suspension is similar to previous field and large wave flume observations. Coherent suspension events account for only 10% of the record but account for about 50% of the sediment load. Model results suggest that about 60∼70% of coherent bottom stress events are associated with surface-generated turbulence. Nearly all the coherent sand suspension events are associated with coherent turbulence events due to wave-breaking turbulence approaching the bed. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Tsunamis generated by long and thin granular landslides in a large flume

Abstract: In this experimental study, granular material is released down slope to investigate landslide-generated waves. Starting with a known volume and initial position of the landslide source, detailed data are obtained on the velocity and thickness of the granular flow, the shape and location of the submarine landslide deposit, the amplitude and shape of the near-field wave, the far-field wave evolution, and the wave runup elevation on a smooth impermeable slope. The experiments are performed on a 6.7 m long 30° slope on which gravity accelerates the landslides into a 2.1 m wide and 33.0 m long wave flume that terminates with a 27° runup ramp. For a fixed landslide volume of 0.34 m3, tests are conducted in a range of still water depths from 0.05 to 0.50 m. Observations from high-speed cameras and measurements from wave probes indicate that the granular landslide moves as a long and thin train of material, and that only a portion of the landslide (termed the “effective mass”) is engaged in activating the leading wave. The wave behavior is highly dependent on the water depth relative to the size of the landslide. In deeper water, the near-field wave behaves as a stable solitary-like wave, while in shallower water, the wave behaves as a breaking dissipative bore. Overall, the physical model observations are in good agreement with the results of existing empirical equations when the effective mass is used to predict the maximum near-field wave amplitude, the far-field amplitude, and the runup of tsunamis generated by granular landslides.

Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar

Abstract: A large-scale wave flume experiment has been carried out involving a T = 4 s regular wave with H = 0.85 m wave height plunging over a fixed barred beach profile. Velocity profiles were measured at 12 locations along the breaker bar using LDA and ADV. A strong undertow is generated reaching magnitudes of 0.8 m/s on the shoreward side of the breaker bar. A circulation pattern occurs between the breaking area and the inner surf zone. Time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) is largest in the breaking area on the shoreward side of the bar where the plunging jet penetrates the water column. At this location, and on the bar crest, TKE generated at the water surface in the breaking process reaches the bottom boundary layer. In the breaking area, TKE does not reduce to zero within a wave cycle which leads to a high level of “residual” turbulence and therefore lower temporal variation in TKE compared to previous studies of breaking waves on plane beach slopes. It is argued that this residual turbulence results from the breaker bar-trough geometry, which enables larger length scales and time scales of breaking-generated vortices and which enhances turbulence production within the water column compared to plane beaches. Transport of TKE is dominated by the undertow-related flux, whereas the wave-related and turbulent fluxes are approximately an order of magnitude smaller. Turbulence production and dissipation are largest in the breaker zone and of similar magnitude, but in the shoaling zone and inner surf zone production is negligible and dissipation dominates.

Numerical prediction of solitary wave forces on a typical coastal bridge deck with girders

Abstract: In this study, a numerical method for predicting solitary wave forces on a typical coastal bridge deck with girders is utilised in order to obtain an alternative way to assess solitary wave forces on coastal bridge decks with sufficient accuracy. Firstly, a wave model based on the solitary wave theory representing the incident wave of tsunamis is applied through a computational fluid dynamics computer program, where the shear stress transport k-ω model is adopted as the turbulent closure for the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes model equations. Then, the numerical wave profiles and the predicted wave forces are compared with the analytical solutions and the reported laboratory measurements, respectively. These verifications assure the results in the following parametric study reliable. Finally, comparisons between the numerical results and those acquired through the empirical methods are conducted in order to examine the appropriateness of these empirical procedures regarding this specific case. Fu...

Numerical Simulation of a Dual-Chamber Oscillating Water Column Wave Energy Converter

Abstract: The performance of a dual-chamber Oscillating Water Column (OWC) Wave Energy Converter (WEC) is considered in the present study. The device has two sub-chambers with a shared orifice. A two-dimensional (2D) fully nonlinear numerical wave flume based on the potential-flow theory and the time-domain higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM) is applied for the simulation. The incident waves are generated by using the immerged sources and the air-fluid coupling influence is considered with a simplified pneumatic model. In the present study, the variation of the surface elevation and the water column volume in the two sub-chambers are investigated. The effects of the chamber geometry (i.e., the draft and breadth of two chambers) on the surface elevation and the air pressure in the chamber are investigated, respectively. It is demonstrated that the surface elevations in the two sub-chambers are strongly dependent on the wave conditions. The larger the wavelength, the more synchronous motion of the two water columns in the two sub-chambers, thus, the lager the variation of the water column volume.

Modeling the influence of storms on sand wave formation: A linear stability approach

Abstract: We present an idealized process-based morphodynamic model to study the effect of storms on sand wave formation. To this end, we include wind waves, wind-driven flow and, in addition to bed load transport, suspended load sediment transport. A linear stability analysis is applied to systematically study the influence of wave and wind conditions on growth and migration rates of small-amplitude wavy bed undulations. The effects of the wind and waves of various magnitudes and directions are investigated. Waves turn out to decrease the growth rate of sand waves, because their effect on the downhill gravitational transport component is stronger than their growth-enhancing effect. The wind wave effect is strongest for wind waves perpendicular to the tidal current. In the case of a symmetrical tidal current, wind-driven flow tends to breach the symmetry, thus causing sand wave migration. Wind effects on sand wave behavior are strongly influenced by the Coriolis effect, in magnitude as well as direction. Stirring due to wind waves enhances sand wave migration. Next to bed load transport, suspended load also has a growing and a decaying mechanism, being the perturbed flow and the perturbed suspended sediment concentration respectively. The decaying mechanism outcompetes the growing mechanism for bed forms with shorter wavelengths, resulting in an increase in the preferred wavelength. Wind waves increase the growth rate due to suspended load, but this is outcompeted by the reduction in growth rate by wind waves due to bed load transport. We conclude that storms significantly influence sand wave dynamics in their formation stage.

Improvement of moving particle semi-implicit method for simulation of progressive water waves

Abstract: Summary Precise simulation of the propagation of surface water waves, especially when involving breaking wave, takes a significant place in computational fluid dynamics. Because of the strong nonlinear properties, the treatment of large surface deformation of free surface flow has always been a challenging work in the development of numerical models. In this paper, the moving particle semi-implicit (MPS) method, an entirely Lagrangian method, is modified to simulate wave motion in a 2-D numerical wave flume preferably. In terms of consecutive pressure distribution, a new and simple free surface detection criterion is proposed to enhance the free surface recognition in the MPS method. In addition, a revised gradient model is deduced to diminish the effect of nonuniform particle distribution and then to reduce the numerical wave attenuation occurring in the original MPS model. The applicability and stability of the improved MPS method are firstly demonstrated by the calculation of hydrostatic problem. It is revealed that these modifications are effective to suppress the pressure oscillation, weaken the local particle clustering, and boost the stability of numerical algorithm. It is then applied to investigate the propagation of progressive waves on a flat bed and the wave breaking on a mild slope. Comparisons with the analytical solutions and experimental results indicate that the improved MPS model can give better results about the profiles and heights of surface waves in contrast with the previous MPS models. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

A Numerical Model to Simulate Sediment Transport in the Vicinity of Coastal Structures

Abstract: : An implicit finite-difference, n-line numerical model is developed to predict bathymetric changes in the vicinity of coastal structures. The wave field transformation includes refraction, shoaling, and diffraction. The model is capable of simulating one or more shore-perpendicular structures, movement of offshore disposal mounds, and beach fill evolution. The structure length and location, sediment properties, equilibrium beach profile, etc., are user-specified along with the wave climate. (Author)

Characteristics of orifices for modeling nonlinear power take-off in wave-flume tests of oscillating water column devices

Abstract: Oscillating water column (OWC) devices for wave power extraction are appealing, but are still in need of research. In this study, a series of wave-flume experiments was conducted to examine the hydrodynamic performance of a rectangular OWC device fixed in regular waves. Two types of orifices, slot orifices and circular orifices, were used to simulate the nonlinear power take-off (PTO) mechanism, and the effects of orifice geometry were examined. A two-point measurement method was proposed to reconstruct the instantaneous spatial profile of the water surface inside the OWC chamber for reducing bias in the measured wave power extraction efficiency. The flow characteristics of PTO were described by a quadratic loss coefficient, and our experimental results showed that the quadratic loss coefficient of the slot orifices varied with wave period and slot geometry. Empirical formulas were proposed for the quadratic loss coefficients of the two types of orifices. The ability to determine the quadratic loss coefficient of an orifice will allow us to design orifices for small-scale tests and calculate the power extraction using only pressure measurement. Our results also suggested that the pressure coefficient should be more reliable than the amplification coefficient as an indicator of the power extraction performance of an OWC device.

Large-scale experimental observations of sheet flow on a sandbar under skewed-asymmetric waves

Abstract: A novel large wave flume experiment was conducted on a fixed, barred beach with a sediment pit on the sandbar, allowing for the isolation of small-scale bed response to large-scale forcing. Concurrent measurements of instantaneous sheet layer sediment concentration profiles and near-bed velocity profiles were obtained on a sandbar for the first time. Two sediment distributions were used with median grain diameters, d50, of 0.17 mm and 0.27 mm. Sheet flow occurred primarily under wave crests, where sheet thickness increased with increasing wave height. A proportionality constant, Λ, was used to relate maximum Shields parameter to maximum sheet thickness (normalized by d50), with bed shear stress computed using the quadratic drag law. An enhanced sheet layer thickness was apparent for the smaller sediment experiments (Λ = 18.7), when directly compared to closed-conduit oscillatory flow tunnel data (Λ = 10.6). However, Λ varied significantly (5 < Λ < 31) depending on the procedure used to estimate grain roughness, ds, and wave friction factor, fw. Three models for ks were compared (keeping the model for fw fixed): constant ks = 2.5d50, and two expressions dependent on flow intensity, derived from steady and oscillatory sheet flow experiments. Values of ks/d50 varied by two orders of magnitude and exhibited an inverse relationship with Λ, where Λ ∼ 30 for ks/d50 of O(1) while Λ ∼ 5 for ks/d50 of O(100). Two expressions for fw were also tested (with the steady-flow-based model for ks), yielding a difference of 69% (Λ ∼13 versus Λ ∼ 22).